are they all in bad shape. mine still look new. did you have problems after the dyno/strip session last week?

 

My best guess on that would be a extremely lean mixture. It looks just like a lean nitrous mixture. If you can I would try and get a TRUE air fuel ratio and see if that may be the problem.Thats my suggestion,sorry to hear your having troubles. Thanks Mike

------------------
00 White Lightning
JL (2)Superchip
JL Air Filter
JL Driveshaft Loop
JDM Lower Blower Pulley
2001 90 mm Mass Air
2" Lowering Shackles
Custom built and designed single 3.5 exhaust with Flowmaster Race Muffler

93 Ford Ranger
FI 302 with 185 AFR heads
GT-40 intake w/ported lower
65 mm TB
66 lb injectors controlled by Western Motorsports SDS fuel injection
TDC Stage 2 twin turbos
AOD trans w/Lentch strip valvebody
10 inch convertor and single input shaft
8.8 rearend w/mosier 31 spline axles and 3.08 gears
Chassis Tech Ladder bar suspension
and plenty more !!

 

Excellent pictures this is exactly what my splitfires looked like about 1 month ago.I had 2 that broke just like the picture looks and only had them in for 1 month!

 

Doug,

What do you plan on replacing the spitfires with NGK, Autolite, or TorqueMasters?

I know that at least 20 Lightning owners purchased TM's but I've only heard of 1 report about them and it was iffy at best, anyone?

 

Do either of you remember what #cyl, the two bad ones were?

 

The ONLY thing that changed on the truck was the plugs. I dont run Nitrous, or race gas. It looks to me like the plugs were too HOT for the application, and the forks are too weak to handle the stresses. The plugs came from the end cylinders on the drivers side. I put the OEM's back in .....

I'll work on the manicure before the next photos

Anyone have a lighted boroscope I can use to look at the Cylinder ??

Doug

[This message has been edited by Silver_2000_! (edited 04-01-2001).]

 

Which plug are you using SF10B's or SF10D's.
The D's are hotter according to Splitfire. I when to look at my old Split's that had 8,000 miles on them and they where D's. They looked to be in great shape and burned a dark tan color. I don't know why I have B in the Pic on my website because these are the same plugs in the pic and haven't changed a bit.

------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

 

sf10b

 

Ok, I'm the DUMBA$$ here. I had SF10B written down from where I was originally looking for the right plug. I have this old 5x7 yellow sheet of paper with every part # imaginable from muffler to filters to sparkplugs that I use for reference. In truth I had SF10D's in my L. I took that pic on my website and when I was editing it later must have refered to that sheet of paper (SORRY). As I posted earlier the B is a colder plug than the D. Apparently too cold. This would explain why they look so black. Here are a couple of pic's of my Slitfire SF10D's with 8,000 miles on them. They burn a dark tan (it's hard to make it look perfect in the pic's). The Autolite 103's burn just a tick leaner but it's almost too close to tell. I'm sorry for any problems I've caused from this misinformation but it explains a lot. I'm going back to the split's because the Autolites are too flat on tippin after running the split's all this time. The killin' part about all of this is I was looking for SF10B's and couldn't find them without ordering them. Now, I can put the right plug back in, the SF10D. Excuse me while I edit that *@#& pic.





------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

 

Dont pay attention to the insulator color - Purple is from fuel additives.

Doug

 

SH*T,

 

Silver
A friend of mine took some plugs out a his engine a while back that looked just like yours. Except thay said NGK on em. Those plugs aren't broken they are burned/melted.
I run the SF10B Splitfires in my truck and I also made over 400hp and 467 ft of torque at the dyno day in Tacoma on saturday afternoon. The plugs are staying in my truck because I think they are a performance advantage.
If you detonate/ping the motor at these power levels it will hurt something in a big hurry. I learned my lessons on a Buick GN. There was a time when I thought it was a normal thing to change head gaskets every weekend :-).
Anyway, because of the design of the splitfire sparkplug, I believe they start the fire in the cylinder a little sooner than a normal sparkplug. In other words they make your engine think that it has more ignition advance. IMHO And I also think the ground strap or fork on the splitfire is not as rugged as it should be. The ground strap can't take the heat of detonation. Because of its design it over heats real fast.
With your current combo, you might be better off with what Sal is recomending right now and that is the Autolite #103
Hope this helps
Dale

------------------
Black 00'
12.98 @ 105.85
full weight, stock F1's
stock exhaust

 

Well I've done that too dont worry, before I got my first truck my brother handed me down his 93 cobra, after he had bored the engine to a 308 put headers off road h pipe, trick flow heads and e303 cam, it was sweet, well it wasnt fast enought so I got some really bad *** upper lower intake manifold new mass air and a 125 shot, well I screwed up the gapping on the plugs and blew up the front two valves and springs, it was bad, I dont really know what happened but I fixed it and trhe car ran a 12.02 oh it also had 3.73s, but I feel your pain.

 

Website pic is now updated to SF10D.

------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

 

Doug,

If you have to keep using fuel additives to eliminate pinging you will probably see this again only the plug will have a different name on it.

Dale,

You might be right about split's simulating more ignition advance. This would explain the increased throttle response. I'm going to buy me a new set of D's right now. I miss that extra jump when you go into the throttle.

------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page



[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 04-01-2001).]