(Did the search, not much found)

I run 17-18 degrees normally. Combination is all the typical bolt-ons, completely stock long block (see signature for mods).

My concern is how much I need to retard with a 75 shot, but also not to steal away power from the nitrous by retarding timing too much.

I will also have at least 50/50 mix between 93 octane and 100 octane race unleaded, possibly up to 75% race gas when I run it.

So, what's everybody doing on timing?

 

I would say for a Stock Block 16 Degrees (LOCKED) is just about right....

 

Rob, I was hoping you would cue in.

So, I'm okay with 16 degrees, 75 shot and the increased octane? I like that timing number. As long as it's not in detonation range.

 

Not all L's are alike but on my orig 02 Lightning and long "BEFORE" I ever had one single problem with it (the 3 years I was doing the wrenching). My set up was a 4lb lower, 2lb upper, Ported Eaton, 75 Shot, and JLP Mail Order Tuning. Johnny had me at over 500 RWHP with a AF in the 9's and very low 10's with 16 degrees of timing "and I absolutely LOVED that tune". AMOF I used it 24/7 as a cold weather non nitrous street tune for years, it brought me 11 after 11 after 11 and I got "3" racing seasons out of 1 set of plugs with stock pumps, inj, & maf

So in my case all I can say is even with a chit load of Boost, 94 Octane Sunoco (we still had it back then) and A LOT of spraying on the street/track (I had a local track and went racing often back then), I never once had a problem, and I got 02,03,and the 04 racing season out of the same set of plugs, SO IT WORKED FOR ME : o )

(remember "LOCKING" the timing on your N20 tune is a smart move)

and for the record I also hit it with my 19 degree non nitrous tune on ocassions and never had prob's with that either on pump gas

Then I went to a built motor and all my troubles started......... :o

You really should be fine @ 16 with an Eaton/SB combo

 

Cool, thanks for all the good info.

I will go with 16 degrees and 100 octane race gas just as an insurance policy.

I can modify the timing via the Predator, but I was unaware of any way to "lock" the timing. In the Mustangs, it used to be leaving the spout connector out of the wiring harness and adjusting the distributor with a timing light.

So how is timing "locked out" in the Lightnings?

 

Very curious why Rob feels locking the timing is a good idea for nitrous applications? Please elaborate.
Jim

 

Computer adds timing as RPM builds, the colder the weather, the more timing. It varies depending upon conditions. I've seen my timing at 16 degrees with the truck extremely heat soaked, and 18 degrees in the cold.

I just don't know how it's locked on these trucks.

 

Jim,
Blown explained it very well and to tell you the truth if you asked me if my JDM N20 tune has locked timing I couldnt honestly tell ya. But I can tell you on the stock block and with a couple of tuners I used this has always been a discussion we had. In the winter months you know a L can add up to 3 degrees of timing, for people boosting it up on a stock block and then spraying on top of it (on the coldest days they could find before the tracks closed), that in itself could be instant destruction......
Hence the reason I always used my n20 tune with timing that was locked
(meaning it will not increase pass 16 no matter what temp or rpm), and hence the reason I used my n20 tune all winter long as a street tune.

I can honestly say that Sal once dyno'd my 02 on a cool night (before he was tuning it) and showed me on screen that I was running 3 degrees more on my street program than I thought. AMOF my street tune was showing 21 degrees of timing on pump gas with crazy boost, foot to the floor, hi RPM, and stock Rods : o () Man that Eaton will take a lot of timing on pump gas, BUT as for the stock rods, "YIKES" ....

BTW, I understand A LOT of Race Tunes (n20 or not) have the timing (locked if you will) so it will NOT go past a certain degree

 

I guess it makes sense to limit timing advance in the tune. What I oppose is eliminating the safety net of pulling timing in the event of high IAT2 temps among other things.
No reason a tune can't be made with additional timing restricted, but leaving the ability to pull timing intact. I would not call this "locked" timing. Truly locked timing seems needlesly risky.
Jim

(also, I feel we pull way too much timing on our nitrous tunes as it is. The introduction of N2O in the inlet tract lowers my IAT2 temps a great deal. Even though more cylinder pressure will be made, and much more power, I feel the risk of detonation is not much higher on reasonable shots of 100HP or less.)

 

Rob, is there a way to lock the timing myself, or is that something only a tuner can do? I have the Predator. Thanks.

 

Actualy your right,I've seen some cases where adding nitrous can cure mild detonation on high boost applications when the intercooler can't quite keep up. Gotta remember the nitrogen acts as a buffer when the n2o is broken down,and also helps transfer the compression force as it acts as an extra median material.

 

You don't want to lock the timing in. You want a max set of timing valves in the timing table.

 

It doesn't look like there is a way to "lock" the timing anyway.

 

I have always backed my timing 2 degree's for every 100 hp of nitrous. BTW....in my Bird, not the L.

 

The Predator won't allow you to do that, it has to be done in the CMR software, if all you need is the timing locked to 16° e-mail me your tune and I will lock it for you.