Speedin Bob about how much did it cost for all three gauges and the pillar? How hard was it to install and wire up the gauges?

Thanks

John

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93 Teal Cobra #4656
2000 Silver Lightning #4524

 

John,

Gauges were $146.80 (shipped) from Summit
Pillar was $50 from LoTek. I think you can get them for $45 now.

IMHO, The best way to install these is to pre-wire them with shielded male/female connectors so you can remove the gauges without much trouble. ***NOTE*** key word here is PLENTY of wire for the sending units. Much easier (and cleaner) to cut off that to splice in.

For the gauge lights, I ran a common ground and hot wire then wire tapped into them as I went down the pillar. With the battery disconnected, run them right to a ground and into the fuse box or to the dimmer so they correspond with the dash lights.

To prevent crimps and/or excess profanity, soak the plastic tubing for the boost gauge in HOT (not boiling) water then run it under the hottest water your sink can muster to straighten it out even further. Then clear it with some compressed air.

Installing the boost gauge was SUPER easy. there is a 90 degree elbow right under the dash below the steering wheel that you can install with a "T" vacuum fitting and run the gauge tubing into with a 7/64 'boot.'

The oil pressure sending unit was a little tricky as I wanted both gauges to work, naturally. Best bet is to go to a hardware store with a nice selection of brass fittings, get under the truck and draw your own conclusion. It can be done, but it is more of a look-see process. All fitting sizes are 1/4" unless otherwise noted:

2 - 90 degree
1 - T
1 - 1/4 to compression (for sending unit)
1 new roll of teflon tape
1 - 1" male/male fitting.

NOTE: this is a good time to change your oil as loosening/removing the oil filter makes for much less mess when the OEM sending unit is removed. BTDT.

To get the wires throught he firewall,

1. Trace the black boost tubing you tapped into and gently unseat the gromet toward the engine bay.
2. Make a small incision through the gromet
3. Poke your needlenose pliers through the gromet, grab the wires, and pull 'em through.

I have to admit to installing the h2o sending unit incorrectly and have yet to redo it. Upon inqury in another forum, Johnny L and Sal suggested either tapping into the intake directly or into the thermostat housing. I will be changing mine to the latter. Of course I'll be buying another housing in case something goes awry (this is my only vehicle presently) Also keep in mind that tapping the housing will cause the temp readings to be incorrect until the thermostat opens. At least I'll know when it opens.

drop me a note if you have specific questions speedinbob@home.com

I need a beer........

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Brake Late, Dive Deep

Speedin Bob, Owner/Operator/Pilot
Lightning #2504, 6/17/99
NLOC # 438
**pre-tuned for spring**
awaiting faster times
re-install of chipenfilter (JL horn and snorkel soon)
17" Expy rims with Comp T/A tires

2001 Summer setup
Shooting for 12's on street tires
JL Ram Air, JDM Flip-Chip, Pulley (on the way), Magnaflow muffler, JDM driveshaft, JL Driveshaft Loop, 3 gauge pod w/ Phantom gauges, Keyless Entry, Retrax Bed Cover, Shackles, Wet Okoles, Mobil 1/FilterMag, Clear Corners & Tails)

Zing Site http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4292905935

 

on my temperature sending unit i thought about taking a piece of exhaust pipe,weld the brass fitingin it,splice into the top radiator hose and try it out.done it on other cars and worked fine.yes,it doesnt work til the thermostat opens but i dont care how cold the motor is.

 

Thank you very much speedin bob. I hope to do this mod very soon.

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93 Teal Cobra #4656
2000 Silver Lightning #4524