That's funny, because I had exactly the opposite experience. I don't like the waiting overnight thing, but other than that, I found that the Ice went on and came off like a dream. And, like most polymer sealants, it lasts WAY longer than carnuba.

But the depth of shine on black paint (again, like most sealants), just was not there. I did do the side-by-side comparison. I had the same results as with NXT -- the carnuba had a much deeper shine without haze.

I still use NXT on my black motorcycle. And when that's used up, I will finish off the Ice on the bike. The bike gets much more abuse than the truck, and it's a super PITA to wax. So a tough, long-lasting wax is a good choice there. But on the big expanses of sheet metal on my truck, it just didn't look as good as good old carnuba.

BTW, carnuba can melt in just a day or two in the sun. Check this out:

"Polymer and Carnauba wax differences:
The polymers and waxes used for detailing are semi-solid; they are actually a very concentrated solution in an organic solvent or aqueous emulsion

a) Polymer sealant- comprises an open linked molecule; these open linked polymer molecules join together to create an elongated mesh like effect that reflects light efficiently due to their inherent flat surface. Because they are usually very transparent they transmit the surface colour faithfully, but they have very little depth resulting in what is perceived as a very bright, flat silver glow. Initially polymers attach to the paint surface by surface tension, after they have cross-linked the polymers and paint molecules form a cationic bond.

b) Carnauba wax- molecules are closed linked, which means that they only butt up together to protect the surface. These wax molecules form an egg-grate type (with the long axis vertical) mesh over the smaller paint molecules of the paint film surface, which gives it an optical depth. Initially a Carnauba wax attaches itself by surface tension; during the curing process the carrier system (solvents / oils) attach themselves to the porous microscopic caps in the paint surface forming a physical anchor.

c) Melting points- Polymer melts at 350oF, Mineral oils 200oF, Carnauba Wax 180oF and evaporates / erodes over time (dependant upon ambient temperatures and climatic conditions) Beeswax is often mixed with Carnauba wax, which has an even lower melting point (130oF), which further limits its durability. In actual practice higher temperatures frequently leads to melting of the wax compounds.

d)For example, painted surfaces exposed to ambient temperatures of 85oF in direct sunlight, will obtain a temperature of 195 degrees or more."

 

Tim, Thank you, I really appreciate the technical point of view you presented here, I wish we could have started the thread like that,, but that was then,, Tim, Thanks again,, Ted O.