Getting ready to change the plugs. I did a search and checked the faq and got some good info but not the specific thread I wanted. I remember one that was very long and detailed. Anyone remember it? Thank you.

 

This one is from Chuck,

gforce,
The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket.
1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job.
Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet,(2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar.
This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble. By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job.
It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs, start your 7mm bolt by hand and your plugs before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.

I hope this helps. It's a lot more info than I had.


------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00

 

I need to add a telescopic magnet to the tools list. It really helps getting that 7mm bolt in and out of tight places.

------------------
Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

 

And dag-gone-it, if it would quit frickin' snowing around here I'd put Chuck's instructions to the test. I hate the thought of those cheapie, platinum plugs being in there, especially with new mods on the way. I don't want to join the ranks of those who've had plugs blow out the heads stripping threads, or cracked porcelin and electrodes, going into the exhaust valves.

------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Race program
J.L. Stage II ram-air
MagnaFlow Exhaust

[This message has been edited by gforce (edited 03-07-2001).]

 

Please add a long skinny standard screwdriver to the list in case your coil pack "spring" stays on the plug.

It happened to me on the second plug from the firewall on the passenger side. Added about 40 minutes, many obscenities, and 3 more beers (after the test drive of course) to the overall experience.

have fun

 

Thanks guys. IOU.

 

One last thing. I assume that it would be easier on a lift. What would you do? Ramps? have a buddy help you?

 

Lift wont help unless it lifts you over the fender. I am 6'3" and used a step stool..

I also saw no differnce in reponse or performance from stock plugs to splitfires and will likely find stock like non platinum Ford plug to install in a few K miles.

Translation - The plugs were fine and I felt it was a waste of time, $, and Knuckles

Doug

 

my stockers had gaps in the 070-080 range. so it depends on how you run your truck and what mods you have. if you stay out of the boost , the stock plugs will last 100k miles as advertised, just don't hit passing gear with worn plugs, might cost you/them a motor. doesn't matter what brand you use, but, if you use the blower, check them and change them often.