Real Men!
Well said MRBBQMAN. I was very sceptical of them at first because of horror stories. One of which I know to be true. You have to remember different engines are different period. You can't compare apples with oranges. I have been running them for 5000 miles or more monitoring them closely. They burn and run perfect. I'm not saying put them in everything you own but if you own an L try them you'll like them.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
Hey, might sound dumb, but where can I get the NGK's and what is the number on the ones for the L. I have 26,000 miles on the truck and never had a problem yet, but I have heard this before. So I guess it more work time now?
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She has allot of toys on her.
MAY BABIES STAT'S
Built 5/4/99
# 917 of 4000
Best ET. 13.42 at 100.98
best stock 13.96 at ?
2001 ET: 12.???
When the green light drops, the bullsh*t stops.
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She has allot of toys on her.
MAY BABIES STAT'S
Built 5/4/99
# 917 of 4000
Best ET. 13.42 at 100.98
best stock 13.96 at ?
2001 ET: 12.???
When the green light drops, the bullsh*t stops.
alphadoggy,
That's increased throttle response not ET. If you are stock the difference is more noticable because you don't spin the tires as easy. The first thing you will notice is the tires break loose much easier.
After going back and reading the link you posted I came to the conclusion that Matthew Puzey (if he is the author) is an idiot. First, he paid twice as much as they normally cost. Second, anybody that leaves plugs in so long that it increases idle when changed needs their a$$ kicked. Third, surely nobody's that stupid to think they're going to get that kind of gas mileage increase.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 02-01-2001).]
That's increased throttle response not ET. If you are stock the difference is more noticable because you don't spin the tires as easy. The first thing you will notice is the tires break loose much easier.
After going back and reading the link you posted I came to the conclusion that Matthew Puzey (if he is the author) is an idiot. First, he paid twice as much as they normally cost. Second, anybody that leaves plugs in so long that it increases idle when changed needs their a$$ kicked. Third, surely nobody's that stupid to think they're going to get that kind of gas mileage increase.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 02-01-2001).]
So many conflicting comments on hear, I don't know which ones to do. I no I'm going to run NOS when JDM finishs the setup, so honestly guys whats the best one out there.
RTKILLA,
MRBBQMAN runs nitros with his splits.
Now, to address the confusion about throttle response, ET's, dyno #'s, inertia and etc.
Throttle response may have the deception of more HP but this is not always the case. It is mainly responding quicker to the inputs you are giving it. When I was modding my wifes 93 LT1 Z28, I was talking to a guy at Hypertech about the air foil and power pulleys. Other adds had claimed 15 HP from adding their air foil (a tapered piece of metal that fits between the TB blades to smooth out air flow). The guy told me that the air foil was only worth 1-2 HP but well worth the $20 in throttle response. The pulleys were worth 10 HP and less Inertia (which can't be dynoed). I ordered both. I put the air foil on by itself just to see the difference. Well, it was very noticeable. It took less pedal to jump up to speed from a stop and when cruising it seemed to jump out harder when I floored it. I installed the pulleys, synthetic oil and a homemade fresh air intake to the airbox. I went from a 14.3 to a 13.9. The best that night when it got cooler was 13.77. Now 10 dynoed HP alone didn't make this happen. There was fresh cooler air and less inertia (freer revving motor) making this happen. I not sure about the oil. Other examples involving inertia would be electric fans, lighter lower pulleys and aluminum drive shafts. You can pickup different amounts of HP from these on the dyno but the fact that they weigh less will let the engine rev easier resulting in faster ET's than you should get for the amount of HP gained. This will also vary in relation to where they are located in the drivetrain.
I hope this clears up this mess about throttle response, ET's, dyno #'s and inertia. The dyno is a good tool but it not the gospel some people seem to think it is. The track does not lie (unless your timer is screwed up)LOL. We saw that happen with somebodies 60ft. time. Now, repeat after me, It's only times that matter, It's only times that matter, It's only times that matter. LMAO.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
MRBBQMAN runs nitros with his splits.
Now, to address the confusion about throttle response, ET's, dyno #'s, inertia and etc.
Throttle response may have the deception of more HP but this is not always the case. It is mainly responding quicker to the inputs you are giving it. When I was modding my wifes 93 LT1 Z28, I was talking to a guy at Hypertech about the air foil and power pulleys. Other adds had claimed 15 HP from adding their air foil (a tapered piece of metal that fits between the TB blades to smooth out air flow). The guy told me that the air foil was only worth 1-2 HP but well worth the $20 in throttle response. The pulleys were worth 10 HP and less Inertia (which can't be dynoed). I ordered both. I put the air foil on by itself just to see the difference. Well, it was very noticeable. It took less pedal to jump up to speed from a stop and when cruising it seemed to jump out harder when I floored it. I installed the pulleys, synthetic oil and a homemade fresh air intake to the airbox. I went from a 14.3 to a 13.9. The best that night when it got cooler was 13.77. Now 10 dynoed HP alone didn't make this happen. There was fresh cooler air and less inertia (freer revving motor) making this happen. I not sure about the oil. Other examples involving inertia would be electric fans, lighter lower pulleys and aluminum drive shafts. You can pickup different amounts of HP from these on the dyno but the fact that they weigh less will let the engine rev easier resulting in faster ET's than you should get for the amount of HP gained. This will also vary in relation to where they are located in the drivetrain.
I hope this clears up this mess about throttle response, ET's, dyno #'s and inertia. The dyno is a good tool but it not the gospel some people seem to think it is. The track does not lie (unless your timer is screwed up)LOL. We saw that happen with somebodies 60ft. time. Now, repeat after me, It's only times that matter, It's only times that matter, It's only times that matter. LMAO.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
I don't know about the Splitfires for the L, but I've run them in my Mustangs with good results. I had one set that I ran in a daily driver '89 GT for 6 years with no problems. I pulled the plugs once a year or so at first to check them, but after that I just let it run.
The guy I sold the car to is still running them after 2 years, so I guess I(we) got my moneys worth out of them. 
BTW, I could tell a small difference in 'throttle response' or what I call throttle 'tip-in' when I first put them in.
LocoSVT
The guy I sold the car to is still running them after 2 years, so I guess I(we) got my moneys worth out of them. 
BTW, I could tell a small difference in 'throttle response' or what I call throttle 'tip-in' when I first put them in.
LocoSVT
LTNBOLT, I believe you make a good point about reduced inertia for some components. I know my carbon drive shaft didn't add any power, but the reduction in inertia might result in some incremental performance gain, though that's not why I bought it. However, plugs or throttle bodies obviously have no inertia, so something else is at work, and in the case of the plugs I think it is the placebo effect. Actually, when you pull used plugs and replace them with new ones it would be surprising if there were not some kind of improvement, however small. I agree with BadDog, if it can't be quantified its just snake oil. I am one of those folks paying $400 for a throttle body, and I better see a reduction in e.t. from it. It may not be much, but a number of dyno tests show people gaining an average of about 9 h.p. from the t.b., and this should be good for a tenth. Every little bit adds up. If it doesn't reduce my e.t. I don't give a damn about "throttle response", I will have wasted my money.
alphadoggy,
There was no placebo effect. The stock plugs only had 2,000 miles on them. It went from barely breaking the tires loose to burning the hell out of them. That my friend is increased throttle response anyway you slice it. My times only increased .05 at the track.
The truck was stock except for the filter and muffler. The plugs burn an even dark tan color. The stock plugs were black at the base of the ground and dark brown at the tip. Don't get caught up in the advertising gimmick about the split tip. It doesn't hurt to have 2 grounds to fire to but it's only going to fire to one at a time. The least path of resistance and so forth and so on. There is no snake oil just good performance in the L. Here is a link so you can see the difference in the color of the plugs.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightnin...parkplugs.html
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
There was no placebo effect. The stock plugs only had 2,000 miles on them. It went from barely breaking the tires loose to burning the hell out of them. That my friend is increased throttle response anyway you slice it. My times only increased .05 at the track.
The truck was stock except for the filter and muffler. The plugs burn an even dark tan color. The stock plugs were black at the base of the ground and dark brown at the tip. Don't get caught up in the advertising gimmick about the split tip. It doesn't hurt to have 2 grounds to fire to but it's only going to fire to one at a time. The least path of resistance and so forth and so on. There is no snake oil just good performance in the L. Here is a link so you can see the difference in the color of the plugs.
http://home.midsouth.rr.com/lightnin...parkplugs.html
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
alphadoggy,
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the TB. I think you are right about the .1 reduction from what other people are saying. It should help even more when you punch it at 40 or 50 mph for your next kill.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
I don't think you'll be disappointed with the TB. I think you are right about the .1 reduction from what other people are saying. It should help even more when you punch it at 40 or 50 mph for your next kill.
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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page
Chuck, ok, you win, I concede it wasn't a placebo effect. You gained half a tenth, which is certainly a quantifiable difference. But, you did pull used plugs and replaced them with new ones, so an improvement is not that surprising, especially since your pics show that the 12FN1s weren't buring very evenly. Glad you're happy with your splitfires. And if I do gain a tenth from the t.b. I will be a happy camper. Cheers.
well, crap. i just bought the NGK plugs...
i'm not going to be running nitrous in my truck. so, does it matter which plug i use?
just as long as i get the platinums out of there?
brooks
[This message has been edited by clonetek (edited 02-06-2001).]
i'm not going to be running nitrous in my truck. so, does it matter which plug i use?
just as long as i get the platinums out of there?
brooks
[This message has been edited by clonetek (edited 02-06-2001).]
eh?
if cooler is better shouldnt the NGK's be right for me?
i have a quite a bit of detonation at WOT from 100-120. this is what i am trying to fix with the new plugs.
what you are saying is use NGK's for nitrous and split's for no nitrous?
if cooler is better shouldnt the NGK's be right for me?
i have a quite a bit of detonation at WOT from 100-120. this is what i am trying to fix with the new plugs.
what you are saying is use NGK's for nitrous and split's for no nitrous?
There is more than a placebo affect happening when you install the splits on an L.An hour an a half to take out the old plugs and the temperature was 4 degrees higher.L goes from spinning the tires to not having traction and the rear end is all over the place.The same burnout can be done with half the throttle it took with the old plugs.So some of you talk out of your a$$,when you cut down the splits and have not even changed your own plugs once yet.These were the fourth different plug that has been in my truck and i was very skeptical of the splits myself,after the tourqemaster fiasco[running like **** and losing a 10th at the track]The splits and a new gates belt by far outdo what the svo t/b did for throttle response.my best before the belt and splits was 12.99 and after was 12.926 Some of this was no doubt the weather conditions so i am not claiming this was all because of the splits or the gates belt.But everyone who has tried the splits has the same conclusion,they help throttle response and none of the other plugs do.High roller was at the track when i tried the tourqemasters and saw me running more than a 1oth slower all that night.He was usually a few hundreths faster than me any way.He was also at a different track after the install of splitfires and the belt and my truck ran 12.926 behind his 12.99 and my mph was 107.8.So all you doubters[et's talk dyno's are bull].I would not put them in my snowmobile or my other car or truck,but in the L the splits work it is as simple as that.


