Peter,

Don't worry GM has it's head shoved to far up it's own butt to make anything that can compare to the Lightning! As far as I know The silverado SS is dead in the water, and the SSR is only getting a stock 6 liter Vortec. I don't know what happened to them. Really in my opion GM started the sport thing with the Syclone & Typhoon.

I will tell you that everyone at work WOO's & AHH's about my Lightning!

I do plan to try to get some info from Eaton. I'll also try some guys I know over at GM powertrain They use Eaton supercharges as well.

Since nobody with a chip as hade a problem with there superchargers, and chips are deemed ok.

Has any one with a blower pulley, or pulley and a chip actually had a problem with the supercharger, other then something related to removal or installation of the pulley it self. (I haven't yet) If someone has please let us know about it. Only time will tell!
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[This message has been edited by 4rts2nv (edited 05-03-2000).]

 

someone posted a while back, about a truck in for repair, for the 2nd or 3rd engine. some rich guys kid, who i believe did the chip/crank & snout pulleys!!. someone on this site talked to the dealers techs and said the truck was trashed.

 

There is always some room for improvment. I guess that the more you put into it, the more chance that you bring the engine to it's "limit" so to speak before you start having some serious problems. Not many stock blocks can take 500 HP so, I wouldn't expect this one to. A good example of this is from my friend from LS1.com (Warbird), He owns a beautiful navy WS-6 and almost as soon as he got it they started working on it and tried all kinds of different things to it. It got to around 500 HP and one of the cyllinder sleeves dropped out of it. Again, it was a lot of experimentation, but he missed driving his car for a good 6 months because of this. The point of all of this is that it is nice to experiment, but I think I'll leave that to the design engineers and stick with the safer things. This is my only vehicle and it has to last me. I like the idea of the shift kit, while it does take much heat, etc out of the clutches, it also adds a heck of a bang on the neck of the torque convertor. I know for a fact because I replaced a bunch on my old Stang about 10 years back.....There is always a weak link and somewhere along the line, something you add will expose it.

Paul G.

 

Check out www.magnusonproducts.com

I sent them an email requesting s/c info. We'll see what they have to say. Should be intersting.

 

I have installed both the chip and pulley on my fathers 00 L. Without the chip it was making 11psi. The truck with a Pro-M mass air and (2) 1 chamber flows was making 9.5psi, so the pulley only made 1.5psi not 3psi like advertised. The chip that I have made no improvements to boost whatsoever. It is still @ 11psi. I have had no problems exept the truck losing boost between shift points. Can you unhook the vacuum hose off of the solenoid that controls the wastegate? what would this do?

 

Way to go Guy!
That will do it. Just plug the hose and you will not loose your boost. Just remember that this is not a real fix. You are treating a symptom and have not really gotten to the root cause but it will work and you will not drop your boost.

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BABolt
SVT#290

 

Has anybody tried this yet? I will try in the morning and take it for a spin and see. If this is going to cause a problem I would like for someone to let me know. Thanks BAbolt! I would also like to know if anybody has run into any problems with NOS on the older L's? I played with mine for almost 2 years trying to get it to work properly with NOS, Top Gun, Nitrous works and Hypertech to see what they thought the problem could be. It was having a problem taking the hose in 3rd gear. It would run hard through 1st and 2nd but as soon as it hit 3rd it would immediatley start detonating and destroy plugs. I must have made a hundred phone calls to these people and went through 50 sets of plugs (it's a wonder the motor still runs!) to get this problem fixed. It was so minor that nobody could detect. I had FORD, Firestone and a chip maker look at this truck and they came up with: Timing was accurate, retards worked, plugs and wires were good, Fuel pumps were O.K and the injectors were o.k. I then pulled all of the MSD off of the truck. Lowered the hp down so mthat I might be able to catch the problem at an earlier stage. With 100hp it would start chewing on the #2 plug. Ichanged the #2 injector and raised the hp up to 150 and it runs perfect. I guess (and I could be wrong) that since the #2 cylinder was running lean it caused the reading from that side (O2) to show rich so in turn leaned the side down which caused all 4 cylinders to destroy the plugs. Is this accurate? I even changed ECM's and was tolsd by a FORD pro that the converter was locking up in 3rd but I did not believe that was the cause. ENOUGH SAID.

 

Hey Crush
This does work and you won't lose your boost! Something in the program is telling the solenoid to open the bypass and drop the boost. Wether it is a hidden RPM limiter or trans. line pressure sensor, is not known yet. I don't know if this will hurt the engine if left done all the time but, it only makes sense to do it when your racing at the track! Good job on figuring it out!!!

 

crush69,

For what its worth, check out LightningTuner's comment (the 2nd posting) in https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/000103.html .



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Joel.......
99.5 White Lightning,
SVT # 0056

 

Excelent post! Thanks. I think everyone should check it out, as it is from early 99.

 

I don't have the specs with me, but I have seen info on the Eaton 112 on the L's. The 112's have longer rotors than the blowers used on the new GTP's and older Thunderbird SC's. They have the M90, and can spin at a higer RPM more safely than the 112. Putting a pulley on your blower may put enough strain on the rotors to whip them around and damage them if you get the blower spinning at too high an RPM.

 

I have read the post that you spoke about but it does not exactly say that it does not work. I beleive we will never get anywhere by saying the blower cannot take the boost or the bottom end will come apart if we really do not try. I am not saying that you should try everything but if we keep listening to manufactoers and aftermarket companies we will be stuck wherever they want us to be. They are trying to protect themselves so they are not going to tell you something they do not have or do is o.k. Has anybody ever tried this? The way I see it is WARRANTY. With the right fuels you can run more boost than anyone thinks they can or with the right timming the same goes. I do not believe they would have put a supercharger on a L and had it close to a max on RPM's. I think the 14,000 rule is just one other safety factor for them. If it cannot stand more than that and everybody says that the tighter you spin the motor the closer you get to max then what happens at burnout? I have allready seen my needle spin in the excess of 6300 during my JOHN FORCE burnouts. Does that mean the supercharger will fail? Sorry for the rant but I just do not beleive everything I hear.

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ALL BOTTLE No THROTTLE

 

BRAVO! BRAVO! (applause)

 

crush69,

You crack me up. You ask for info, we give it to you, and since it doesn't substantiate your quest, you brush us off like were idiots. Look, try it if you want. Nobody is telling not to do anything, we’re just trying to make you an informed consumer. Why should someone else prove that your ideas are right. Do it yourself, and let us know what happens if you want.

I’m going to go out on a limb here and say you are not a mechanical engineer. If you are, then you clearly understand thermodynamic concepts. If you are not, then I’ll try and help. A roots-type blower (such as the L has) is basically an large egg beater. If the air in the supercharger is not consumed by the engine then the air is just going get hotter. At low power settings the bypass valve opens so that the S/C isn’t just making the air hotter. This simple bypass valve is what makes it possible to reliably S/C a production vehicle to high pressures. With a smaller pulley, the S/C spins faster than designed at WOT, and the efficiency is going to go down. What does this mean? The S/C is just heating the air more, reducing its density, even though the pressure has gone up. In addition, the higher pressure generated by the S/C also consumes more HP from the engine. Eventually the density is going down, power consumption to drive the S/C is going up and at the end of the day you haven’t gained anything.

Now as far as rotor dynamics goes, as long as you stay away from a rotor critical speed, there is no problem. In fact you can run without any problems almost right next to the critical rpm. However, at that critical speed several things could happen. From what the vendors told me, they were concerned about a wobble/whipping mode at just above 14000 rpm where crash engagements could be experienced. It didn’t sound like they were as concerned about the stresses in the rotors as much as the interference with the rotors themselves or the rotors and the housing. You wouldn’t have to run at that speed for any length of time and have a problem as the failure mode is not one of fatigue but mechanical deflection.

Bottom line….. try it yourself if you want to. If you’re successful great, if you’re not, it wouldn’t be ethical to file a warranty claim now would it? You’re a big boy (and a doubting one at that) which has every right to experiment. Just don’t complain if I don’t want to try it for you.


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Joel.......
99.5 White Lightning,
SVT # 0056

 

I am not treating anybody like an idiot. I am simply asking a question which I did not recieve a answer that I was satisfied with. I understand where you are coming from its just that I was wanting to know if anybody had any info to back it up besides hearsay from the manufactors. I also understand the wobble effect but I would like to hear these results from Eaton since they are the manufactuer. I do not feel that they are going to give me the truth. I have also read that someone posted that these motors had actually seen 20psi before and no prblems. I also understand that it would not make that much more power but it is the concept. I do appreciate the info that everybody is providing it is just that I would like to throw my $.02 in as well, so please try not to take offense in what I say because I am not directing this to anyone! I will be trying some of the things that I have mentioned and I will let ya'll know what happens and I am not asking anyone to do anything that I would do. Some of the best improvements are done in someones garage and the past proves it.