When I turn hard to the left, as far as the steering wheel can go, I get a clicking/clunking noise from somewhere under the engine, or thereabouts. Is this a problem?

I have a 2000 L.

Thanks for the help...

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2000 Silver Lightning
#2798
Born on date: May 9, 2000

Mod's (in order of purchase):
1. Black Ford slush mats
2. 20% window tinting
3. K&N air filter

Soon to come: hard silver toneau cover, superchip, new speakers, bug deflector, brushed alluminum dash --- now i just need money

 

Zeus,

here is your problem
https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/002981.html

Despite Ford's rhetoric, here is the REAL fix.

link: https://www.f150online.com/f150board...ML/007693.html



Oh, and lube the steering stops with some wheel bearing grease too.



[This message has been edited by Speedin Bob (edited 02-04-2001).]

 

Zeus 2k1,

I do agree with Speedin Bob that the lower control arm bolt may be, (or will be the problem). Try lubricating the steering stops first. Easy fix, no wait, very little expense.

Later,
Jake..

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2000 Black Lightning
NLOC #476
PSP full meal deal
Level 10 shift kit
SnugLid
BedRug
Wet Okole seat covers
AIM 2" rear drop

13.870 @ 100.52 stock
13.087 @ 104.80 mods

jacobs@revealed.net

 

I have the same problem. At first I just had the standard clunk when hitting bumps. Took it to the dealer and they put their TSB fix on it and it started popping just like you are describing and it grinded when turning the wheel back and forth. I took it back and 3 days later they did more stuff to it and it still makes that noise. Going to take it back for the third time as soon as I can get them to return my damn calls for an apointment!

Sam

 

Sam, grease the steering stops first, it'll probably cure the noise as that's usually the noise maker. I learned from my '99 and when I got my '00 I greased them shortly thereafter and although the lower arm still moves(as evidence by the wax) it has yet to make a sound.

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Red '00 Lightning,
Power Surge Performance enhanced,
Sound effects provided by Flowmaster,
375 RWHP,
445 RWTQ,
12.974@104.818
Track Videos

[This message has been edited by 4D THNDR (edited 02-06-2001).]

 

Hey 4D THNDR,
You will go faster if you wheels are straight.

HJ :-)

 

Thanks for the washers Herb, i haven't crawled under there to check it out yet. does anything need to be supported or can i simply tap out the bolt and install washers ? any tips from anyone, or is it a no-brainer

 

MRBBQMAN,

Placed a jack stand under the drivers side frame then use the floor jack to take the pressure off the control arm as it allows the bolt to be tapped out much easier. Install inserts, re-install the bolt, and torque it down. 30 minutes tops.

I pondered installing the cam bolt kit also but will let the alignment guys do it this weekend.

 

thanks Bob, you've saved me some time and maybe a finger or two

 

Bob is right on the money with his advise! Couldn't have said it better myself.
:-) Glad you guys like them! Bob, once you get the cam bolts in and a good alignment its going to feel even better!

Herb

 

I changed both upper control arms with bushings and ball joints and the lower ball joint. I did this to stop some pulling and because my front end guy said it needed it. Now I get a popping sound from the front. Just wondering if I did something to cause this. could I have overtightened the ball joints or something while doing this work?

1997 ford expedition 2wd

Update; I greased the turning stops on the lower control arms and it seems to have worked. I will ask the wife to check it out tomorrow while driving. However, while doing this I noticed the left upper control arm(that I just changed) had "Right" stamped on it. And sure enough the right one had left stamped on it. I thought I was carefull making sure the box was placed on the correnct side of the vehicle before starting, however they were already opened from the parts store. How could they work on both sides?

p.s. the vehicle drives straight and true with no noticable tire wear.