After running at my local track a couple of weeks ago and experiencing severe knocking, I developed a slight misfire at cruising speed. It rapidly progressively got worse into a serious misfire and surging at cruise and to a misfire at idle. Per board members advise, I pursued changing the spark plugs as the first step.

Removed the factory platinum tipped plugs and and much to my dissapointment, did not find one that appeared to be damaged via a visual inspection--I thought, well not to worry, this doesn't necessarily mean the are not bad. Received my NGK TR6 plugs from Internet Racers Supply and installed the plugs today. Set the gap at .041" and applied never seize to the plugs along with a thorough cleaning of the dielectric grease on the coil boots. Reapplied new dielectric grease to the tips of the coil boots and installed the new plugs.

The problem is completely resolved!

To those that have encountered the misfire/surging problem--my recommendation would be to change out the spark plugs yourself. DO NOT TAKE IT TO THE DEALER! Here is why I make that statement: I have encountered several instances where I took my vehicle to a dealer, they claimed changing a certain part, the problem was not resolved and then I would troubleshoot and not go after the part they claimed to have changed. Only to find out after much troubleshooting that the part had never been changed. Do yourself a favor and perform the spark plug change yourself. If the problem does not become resolved, atleast you know for sure that the plugs were not the source of the problem.

 

Peter,

Glad to hear you're running good again. Amazing how those spark plugs can look good and run bad isn't it?

I installed a brand new set of plugs in my sister's car at the same time I rebuilt the carburetor. Took it for a drive and it missed and carried on. I was convinced I screwed something up in the carb. After two more teardowns of the carb., I tried another set of plugs. Yep, that was the problem.

Hey, how do you like the NGK's?

------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Single program
J.L. Stage II ram-air

[This message has been edited by gforce (edited 01-13-2001).]

 

gforce,
Don't seem to notice any performance difference (was not expecting one) using the NGK's. All I can tell you is that it runs very smooth (basically like it did before the problem resulted). But what I do believe is that the platinum tipped plugs can be easily damaged in a supercharged or turbocharged application if you encounter knocking. It seems there are alot of members on the board who are using the NGK TR6 (p/n 4177) and others are using the Split Fire SF10B. It looks like either plug appears to work great for everyone.

 

Great Job Peter!!

So how long did it take? Would you order from Internet Racers Supply again?

The L community can all breath again now that one of our boys is all better .

------------------
Joel.......
99.5 White Lightning,
SVT # 0056

[This message has been edited by JoeLightning (edited 01-14-2001).]

 

Thanks for the info,im sure you are helping me and many others.What i think is funny is the fact that usually spark plugs are the last thing you need to do to a car.Its usually the first thing somebody goes after in a old car to find out it was not the problem.even basic tune ups change sparkplugs with no change in performance or preexisting problems.Then you take a premium truck with premium plugs and they screw up! good work

 

Dialetic what? I thought you just spit in em so they went together good.

 

Glad to hear you are running better. I heard that changing the plugs will void your warranty, any truth to that??

I talked to Yoda today, all of us Arizona L's need to have a little shootout at the track one night.



------------------
K&N
downs Intake(piece of *****)
R9
Best ET: 13.409 @101
1.957 60'
Best Stock ET: 13.59@101
1.998 60'

 

how did you get to the rear plugs? I was able to change the first three on the pass side and the first two on the drivers side but I couldnt reach the others. Any suggestions?

 

btt

 

Nathan,

You can thank LTNBOLT for this as he's the one that wrote it in detail:


The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket.
1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job.
Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet,(2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar.
This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble. By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job.
It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs, start your 7mm bolt by hand and your plugs before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to crossthread that aluminum.


------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Single program
J.L. Stage II ram-air

 

Joelightning,
I didn't keep a running tally of the time I spent. The first night was a real slow start as I removed the intake boot, found oil, then tooks pics, posted them and waited for replys before moving forward. I would say with the proper tools plan on probably about 4 hours or so (I took my time, cleaning the cop boots, removing the old dielectric and applying new dielectric). Thanks for the info on Internet Racers, yes I would order from them again--I placed the order late night on their website and they shipped the next day as scheduled.

modd69,
I very much doubt they could or would warranty by changing plugs, but who knows, anytime a manufacturer can do anything to get out of warranty work they seem to do it.

Nathan,
The 3 tools that really helped in this job were:
1/4" drive swivel socket from Sears.
3" long spring type flex extension.
Very long needle nose pliers (helped in the removal and installation of the 7mm cop screws).

I'm at work right now so I can't post pics of those tools, but when I get home tonight I'll take pics and post them.

Some tips: On the 3rd plug on drivers, remove the 2 hoses that are in the way of that cop. Use the 1/4" 7mm swivel socket to remove the cop screw, leave the screw on the cop when removing.

On the last cop on drivers, it really helped using the 7mm swivel socket in conjunction with the flex extension.

On the last cop on passenger side, move the heater hoses out of the way and again I used the 7mm swivel socket.



[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 01-15-2001).]

 

regarding the warranty and plugs.

The only time the warranty would be effected is if Ford could prove that the aftermarket plugs caused the problem, such as: they broke and the pieces damaged the valves, pistons, cylinder, etc.


------------------
Jim
Jim@FordMotor.cc

Black 00, #1008 of 4966, 4.10's, SuperChip/R9, JL’s Ram Air,
AIM 2" drop, AutoMeter Boost and A/F Gauges, chrome wheels,
Cobra Throttle Body, Mobile1 w/FilterMag
2000 E320, 1993 Cobra R, 1959 Corvette, 1949 Plymouth Coupe

 

Platinum tipped plugs should never be used in any real performance application. Especially supercharged or turbo'd. Both gold and copper are better conducters of electricity than platinum.....and that's what you need to avoid the misfire associated with high hp, supercharged, or turbod applications. The only reason platinums are used as the OEM plug is because they offer extrememly long life (compared to a copper plug). Other than that they are trash.

Jason



------------------
Red 99, JL Flip Chip, Airaid, Kameleon Head Unit, Thunderforms.

 

Just put splitfires in my truck and still have the misfire. Old plugs looked pure white like its running lean.

 

SCOTTODOG,
That does not seem right on your plug color. My plugs were all a very nice medium to dark brown color. I've been reading plug colors on cars, 2 stroke snowmobiles, atv's and watercraft for years, and white is definitely on the lean side. If it is running too lean, that would explain your surging problem. This could be any number of things: ranging from oxygen sensor, fuel injector(s), or the ecm.

[This message has been edited by Peter B (edited 01-15-2001).]