Why are my front tires wearing like this??
Why are my front tires wearing like this??
Hey guys! Hopefully someone here is a suspension expert. My 2000 is lowered with the Roush kit, 2" Belltech drop shackles and has Hotchkis sway bars. Both front tires are wearing on the inside edges, why?
The lowering was done about two years ago, didn't seem to be a problem until the last 6 months or so.
The Roush suspension kit came with cam-bolts, which i installed. I've had the truck aligned twice now with hopes of correcting the problem and no luck!
I guess my big question is, which axis of my alignment is off-track and how do i correct it?? Please help, i've already ruined one set of Nittos and would hate to see these ones go too! Thanks in advance guys!
The lowering was done about two years ago, didn't seem to be a problem until the last 6 months or so.
The Roush suspension kit came with cam-bolts, which i installed. I've had the truck aligned twice now with hopes of correcting the problem and no luck!
I guess my big question is, which axis of my alignment is off-track and how do i correct it?? Please help, i've already ruined one set of Nittos and would hate to see these ones go too! Thanks in advance guys!
Originally Posted by TheYak
. . . I guess my big question is, which axis of my alignment is off-track and how do i correct it?? . . .
Excessive toe causes wear, but it's usually even across the tread.
sounds like negative camber as mentioned above. At first its not as noticable on the tire tread, but the worse the tire wears, the faster it wears.
I vote rotate and align imediatly
I vote rotate and align imediatly
Obviously get a Good Alignment done as said above.
You can also get a little more life out of the tires as long as it's not showing the belts by remounting the tires on the rims and rotating sides to put the worn part on the outsides.
You can also get a little more life out of the tires as long as it's not showing the belts by remounting the tires on the rims and rotating sides to put the worn part on the outsides.
When I lowered my 02 in the front my alignment COULD NOT be set to the correct spec's using the factory hardware. They called me up and had me come down so they could show me how they couldnt get it to spec. They then ordered a moog eccentric alignment kit, called me back a few hours later and showed me how it was perfect. And it was drove like a dream from that point on and the tires wore perfect.....
I belive this is the kit here I used
http://www.racepages.com/performance...5&brandid=3823
App: 1997 - 2000 Ford Pick Up Full Size
Brand: Moog Alignment Kit
Part #: MOK8701
Description: Alignment Kit, For Caster/Camber Kit, High Quality Original Equipment Replacement
Price: $22.95
5.4L, V8, Supercharged, GAS, FI, VIN "3" - F150 Series, 1/2 Ton, Lightning
I belive this is the kit here I used
http://www.racepages.com/performance...5&brandid=3823
App: 1997 - 2000 Ford Pick Up Full Size
Brand: Moog Alignment Kit
Part #: MOK8701
Description: Alignment Kit, For Caster/Camber Kit, High Quality Original Equipment Replacement
Price: $22.95
5.4L, V8, Supercharged, GAS, FI, VIN "3" - F150 Series, 1/2 Ton, Lightning
Rob is correct. The eccentric kit is often required to re-establish factory alignment specs on lowered vehicles.
Lee
Lee
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Originally Posted by VINNIE
WHAT>>>>> NO WAY!!!!!!
I GUESS A BLIND SQUIRREL FINDS A NUT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE

I GUESS A BLIND SQUIRREL FINDS A NUT EVERY ONCE IN A WHILE

Let him have this one. He's taken somewhat of a beating lately....you know: slow truck and all.....

Lee
Originally Posted by TheYak
Thanks guys! I'll try the kit and let you all know what happens 

They are different.
Some of these tires are directional.
I would be cautious about any high speed shananogins if you reverse and rotate sides.
I did cam bolts on mine the first week I bought it. I do the home brew alignment and had to go full camber on the ford adjusters to get the tires level and wearing evenly.
With the crummy roads and soft stock gromets it is a wonder if they stay correct for a few hundred miles.
These wide heavy tires sure don't help ether.
I would be cautious about any high speed shananogins if you reverse and rotate sides.
I did cam bolts on mine the first week I bought it. I do the home brew alignment and had to go full camber on the ford adjusters to get the tires level and wearing evenly.
With the crummy roads and soft stock gromets it is a wonder if they stay correct for a few hundred miles.
These wide heavy tires sure don't help ether.
OK guys, i received the alignment kit that Rob mentioned. Mevotech Part MK8701 as ordered from racepages.com. However, i went to install it and had no idea how the hell it's supposed to go on! The kit is only 2 pieces that look like a round/squarelike plate with a washer tacked to it and a square hole beside that (possibly for a 3/8" ratchet).
Anyway, went to the Firestone shop... very happy to say that i bought the lifetime alignment when i first bought my L
They told me that after they aligned it that i do have negative camber that cannot be adjusted. I did not have them install the kit, but i showed the technician the parts and he didn't know how to install it. He asked me to get some info on how to and bring the truck back and he'd give it a try.
So can anybody help me out?? I've tried the manufacturer's website to look for instructions but have not found any. I'd really appreciate it guys, my tires are getting worse everyday
Thanks for your time
Anyway, went to the Firestone shop... very happy to say that i bought the lifetime alignment when i first bought my L
So can anybody help me out?? I've tried the manufacturer's website to look for instructions but have not found any. I'd really appreciate it guys, my tires are getting worse everyday
Thanks for your time
There are no instructions. You just remove the stock bolts and shims, and replace them with the cam bolts.
Once the new bolts and nuts are on (but not tightened down), you adjust caster and camber by rotating the whole assembly (wrench on bolt head). This moves the upper control arm in and out, and up and down. Rotate the cam bolts until the wheel does not point in or out at the top, and drive immediately to the alignment shop.
That's it.
Once the new bolts and nuts are on (but not tightened down), you adjust caster and camber by rotating the whole assembly (wrench on bolt head). This moves the upper control arm in and out, and up and down. Rotate the cam bolts until the wheel does not point in or out at the top, and drive immediately to the alignment shop.
That's it.



