Hey tampa, I know you did the bell tech drop kit and I just ordered mine today. What else if anything do I need for this kit. I'm also getting new shocks to go with it. I think that should be all of it right. I've read everbody's info on the kit and it seems like there all good except for a few problems. Whats up with the cam adjusters, I've never dropped a car,truck, anything, so this will be new to me. My buddy's going to help and he should no but I just want to be ready for anything. Thanks for your help.

[This message has been edited by RTKILLA (edited 12-18-2000).]

 

Killa:

You can get the adjusters from any Goodyear, Firestone, etc.. If you're doing the hangers yourself, be prepared to grind, chisel and torch them off.

Front springs are a breeze. Just disconnect the upper control arms and pull them straight out.

Shackles are a no-brainer.

Shocks aren't needed,IMO, but it wouldn't hurt to do them.

Good Luck. Let me know if I can help.

Happy Holidays!!




------------------
Rich
1999.5 SVT Lightning - Red. 100HP Shot NOS, BellTech 3/4 drop, Super Chip(TRAC). K&N Filter. Viper Alarm w/remote start, Sir Michael's roll pan, smooth corners and steps w/billet inserts, clear corner lenses, Cervinis Ram Air hood, ARE Cover w/ wing, Momo billet pedals, cd changer, cover, Phantom boost and nitrous gauges, MTX Thunderform w/ 2 10" MTX Thunder 4000 subs. 5-channel 500w. Clarion amp.(APA5241), (4)Polk Audio 3-way, 130w. DX 7's, Color-matched Muth signal mirrors, Soundproofed cab, BedRug, Trenz billet grills, Piaa 9007 Super Whites, etc. Build #2755
TampaSVT@Tampabay.rr.com

http://home.tampabay.rr.com/tampasvt/

2001 PT Cruiser - Limited Edition
1999.5 Expedition XLT

 

Thanks for the help. I feel alot better now that I know this. My friend should be able to get it done, he's done a complete suspension on a mustang with tubular a arms and everything. I hope so anyway.

 

RTK,
Please allow me to offer this. I just bought the eccentric bolts/cams from the Ford dealer nearby. The part numbers & prices are:
(eccentric-bolt)
F65Z-3B236-BB "Cam" $17.42 ea.

(eccentric washer for other end of bolt)
F65Z-3C178-AA "Cam" $5.93 ea.

You'll need two of ea. of these for each side of vehicle--about $100 w/tax if you get from Ford.

These are used to move the upper contol arms around in their slots, "the proper way to align"--according to other posts.
NOTE: You will see that the control arm bushings are some kind of rubber- and they seem to be torqued down at their normal operating height. Then, when the control arms move, the bushings add some spring effect. I would guess that with shorter springs, the upper control arms should be tightened at their new height. I'm thinking you preload the spring (to the point of almost lifting frame off jack-stand)with the jack under the lower control arm, then retorque the upper control arm. ***Before loosening anything, I took measurements of the bolts in the upper control arm from the center of the bolt to the outer surface of mounting flange, then when you install new eccentric bolts, you'll have a reference point, at least until you get to the alignment shop anyway. I'm sure it will need to change, but at least it will be close to where it was-instead of way off.
I also asked about torque specs while I was there. They recommend 55 ft/lbs on the upper control arms (and lowers if you were doing that)*****HAVE SINCE FOUND OUT MY LOCAL DEALER SERVICE DEPT GIVES OUT BAD INFO. SPECS CALL FOR 84-112 FT/LBS UPPER CONTROL ARMS WITH "CAMS", AND 121-148 LOWER CONTROL ARMS*****. - For ball joints I have seen two quotes so far: So-Cal Speedshop article recommends 80 ft/lbs--the Ford dealer said "no more than 110 ft/lbs". For tie-rod ends, So-Cal article also states 40-50 ft/lbs.

I have the front end off mine right now. It's been "fun" learning in detail about all the parts, slots (clunk), and procedures mentioned in many posts here . Of course, the lower control arms I ordered had to be returned, now I'm waiting on drop springs instead. You did the right thing the first time.

BTW--separating the upper ball joint was not bad. I borrowed a ball joint separator, but found it much simpler to, after loosening ball joint nut a couple of turns, just to tap on the spindle itself, from different angles, until the ball joint snapped up out of taper.

Remember, I'm doing this for first time also--so I'm only passing on what I've been able to see/learn/have been able to find out from others. If your kit comes with more info, or you find out any add'l. please let me know! Hope this helps in some way.....

[This message has been edited by LightStruck (edited 12-19-2000).]

[This message has been edited by LightStruck (edited 12-19-2000).]

[This message has been edited by LightStruck (edited 01-03-2001).]

 

RTKILLA:
Ditto on Lightstrucks post. Just did springs and shackles and it went well. My first time around, wasn't sure how to separate upper ball joints from spindle. Tried again using a 6lb hammer to rap the top of the spindles. Worked real well. Just remember to keep the ball joint nut on (loosely) untill the ball joint separates from spindle. Everything else (shock, sway bar link, brake line clamps) came off easily. Will need following tools: 13/16 deep socket and open end wrench for upper shock/ball joint nut/rear shackle bolts, 10mm socket for brake lines, 13mm socket for lower shock bolts, 5/8 socket and wrench for sway bar link, torque wrench, heavy hammer, chisel/drill to remove rear spring hanger.
Sory for long post..
Have Fun!

------------------
Ed
White'00 #2006

 

I did mine myself and discovered that you don't have to detach the ball joints, brake lines, etc. if you pull the upper control arm bolts only. Just be careful and take your time.

A hammer was never used in the procedure....

 

I'm just going to print all this out and give it to my buddy cause he's the suspension guy in the group and hopefully he won't mess anything up.

Also I wanted know if when you guys did the bell tech 3/4 drop kit, what kind of rake am I going to get cause I still want some kind of rake, but I want it to be lower. Do I have to do what DJY did with his black lightning, with the lower control arms.

 

Killa:

The Belltech kit comes with an adjustable shackle. You have about 1" to play with either direction. You won't mess it up...

Do you build custom boxes?

Rich

 

When I was in high school, It got so boring that I would ditch school and go up to the local stereo shop and I would mess around with all the stereo's. To be exact I ditch 62 days my junior year. I still got all a's and B's and graduated in the top 20% of my class, but it was boring. Well anyway my best friend had this mustang That he race's, at the time it only ran about a 12 but it was still the fastest car I ever road in. Well I started haning out with him going to the track and street racing. I got addicted. So he taught me everything I know about car stereo. I can basically put anything in you want, I bought myself a new delta badA$$ table saw. I got a little shop in my garage just for making custom boxs. When I don't know how to do something I just call up eddie and he'll fix it. He's the guy thats going to help me this winter. He owes me some work for the trailer I bought him for the last cordova. You may have seen him in a couple of magazine's. Not to often but he makes it once in a while. He's got the white 88 gt with the mustang sign cut out on the bottom for the neons. He races the street renegade now. Trying to get it down to a 9 this winter. He want to sell me his c6 trans for my truck. He wants a c4 so 1000 for a built up to ***** c6 is a good deal. I'm going to see if it will actually fit and then decide. If it was up to him I would have a 302 with a ys trim on it in the truck. I'm not going to do that yet. God I've been rambling on. Yes I build custom box's. I did mine remember.

 

Killa:

You have two(2) options.

The BellTech 3/4 will give you a rake that is reversed to what you have now. The rear will be 1" lower than the front. It WILL bottom out at this height.
I moved the shackle bolt up 1"(adjustable) to level the truck out and am quite pleased with the look. No shock changes needed at this height....

You can also change out the lower control arms to get the front even lower again and get the original rake. You will need shocks....

This is a pic with the full 3/4. The rear was too low, IMHO. Up 1" was perfect...



Rich

 

SO the back end is adjustable so I can make it an inch up. so when I get it just make the back as high as I can with the kit. Do I have to modify the bell tech kit.

Tampa thanks for the help man, I've never dropped any vehicle, and while my buddy ensures me that nothing will go wrong, I just don't want to mess anything up. If you want I'll build you a custom box like mine. I can do that without a problem. Are you going to st louis this may. If so I'll make you one and bring it.

 

Killa:

I already have the MTX Thunderform in the cab, but...
I'd like to see what it would take to build out the bed with a u-shaped custom box to hold some major subs(6+ 12") and multiple amps... It would have to be very magazine quality.

Any ideas, let me know.

Rich

 

Tampa I'm sorry but I cannot participate in that kind work on your L. That would be a crime. Imagine how slow you will go. J/K. I've thought about this many times myself for my L and something like that you just have to take down some demensions and draw it out over and over again until you find the right way. If I was going to do subs in the back of my truck I would go with 15's I think. Like a JL 15w6. Do six of those lined up along the side's, then get three pheonix gold zpa 0.5's and line those baby's up the center. That might be interesting. It really all depends on the money you want to spend. My buddy eddie used to have a motorized box in his mustang that would flip around so you would get different kinds of bass. You could build it all out of plexi Glass, bick bucks. Do you want to put your truck in shows. Pretty much between me and eddie we can do anything for stereo, But anybody who's going to do it going to have your truck for a long time. In fact eddie put together the orion pickup truck back in the early 90's that won at iasca. Just give me some wood and bondo and I'll take care of it.

I can say this six twelves will be loud, thats what I had in my 97 grand prix. It was sick.

 

Killa:

Shows are the main objective.
I've already taken 2nd. in both SlamFest 2000 and Truxpo 2000, plus numerous local shows.

I'm looking for three seperate fitted boxes made from the same material as the BedRug(grey). 2 that hold subs, 1 that holds amps. I like the plexi idea on the amps. Maybe some neons...?

I'm not worried about getting slowed down. The Nitrous will offset the extra weight....

Rich


[This message has been edited by TampaBayLightning (edited 12-20-2000).]

 

If you where going to do neons then you have to do the red lightning bolt neons by street glow. I'm not saying anything but I got plans for those in my truck in a secret spot. When I do it I'll show all you guys.

How did you do the roll pan and the smooth corners on your truck, the more and more I see that the more I want to do it. How do you like the bed rug. some guy sent me an e-mail with a beg rug to fit my truck with the pads and all for 150 bucks. Same one I saw for about 400 in the stores.

[This message has been edited by RTKILLA (edited 12-20-2000).]