Hey Brian

I tell ya', it's not been my week.

1. Burned a piston on the Sno Pro
2. Buddy's 2000 ZR600 Blair Morgan motor disintegrated
3. Buddy threw his back out and missed the ******* Sno-X.
4. The reason I paged you. Can you check out this pic and tell me what you think about it. I don't know if my track is trash or still useable. I know you've raced and may have run into this too. I have 96 Woodys 1.375 studs with aluminium backers on this track; from looking at what happened, I guess 144 would've prevented this. The picture shows me pushing from the bottom with a screw driver to reveal the tear. Thanks for any input on what I should do. I tried to find your email; but, couldn't find it.

 

Badbolt,
Sorry to hear about your bad luck. How did you burn a hole in your piston? Bad gas, jetting, jet plugged? Be sure to check your timing marks on flywheel and make sure they are not off. The 2000 sno pro's really didn't have a problem burning down that I ever saw, other than the obvious wrong jetting.
As far as you track goes, do you just have one bad spot where maybe you caught a stud while spinning? If there is evidence of other studs tearing, then I would agree with the understudding being the problem. Those long studs are more vulnerable to damage, and unless you are riding in soft powder type snow, I would go to 144 studs. Usually when you start seeing tearing from not enough studs, it will start with the studs closest to the slide rail, where more pressure is exerted.
Hope it helps Brian
btw, my e-mail is: grothimp@cannon.net

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99 red lightning, bassani complete system #1610 of 4000
2001 arctic cat zr440 snopro on the way
2000 super duty v10
Arctic cat 400 4x4
Cobra "R" #131 of 300
Moderator
www.svtperformance.com

 

brian

I couldn't find any more evidence of tears except for one additional thrown stud. The backer cut the track lengthwise on the track the lenght of the backer. All of the other slightly bent studs, %15 of them are on the accelleration side. No studs are bent from braking. Judging from the picture, would you still use this track after installing enough studs to equal 144? About the burnt piston, my local Cat dealer told me I could safely jet to 290 from 310. WRONG! $500 to fix.



[This message has been edited by BadBolt (edited 12-17-2000).]

 

There is some company that claims to be able to fix torn tracks, saw the ad in a magazine. Have no idea how good the method is, but might be worth checking out. If the area you ride has alot of rocks that get exposed those long studs are going to take a beating. If that is the case I would consider switching over to the .92 track that is much more common to come by used. As far as using the track again, if you have a stud pulled through the hole in the track, move the stud over a inch or two and move on. With a tear like shown in the picture, I would be less likly to try it, only maybe if I was going to ride close to home.
I raced my 00 sno-pro's cross country and never raced with a jet higher than 280, so I would agree that 290 should be relativly safe. I run egt guages and will tell you as a fact that your sled will run hotter at 6500-7000 rpm with the throttle held in that position while cruising. If you were just riding a straight trail holding the throttle in one position that could easly do it, richen the mid range. Also if I remember right you are in Michigan? Do you guys have ethenol in your gas? That will naturaly lean you out, My running 260-280's for cross country racing was with 100% nonoyxegenated fuel. Like I mentioned above check your timing marks on the flywheel and verify their placement. I have yet to see an Arctic Cat with the marks right on yet. Both of my 00's were 2 degrees off.
Brian

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99 red lightning, bassani complete system #1610 of 4000
2001 arctic cat zr440 snopro on the way
2000 super duty v10
Arctic cat 400 4x4
Cobra "R" #131 of 300
Moderator
www.svtperformance.com