Does the whole caliper come off? Doesn't look like the pads will slide out w/caliper in place. Anyone have step-by-step instuctions?

TIA

 

One thing you will need is a No 45, I think torex bit to remove the two screws. You have to pull the caliper to change the pads. There are two other regular bolts you have to remove also. Use ford pads, they are mated to the rotors. My cost was 54.00 a set. (set is two fronts or two rears, 108.00 total)
noelvm

 

anyone know if a carbon metallic pad is made for the L? if so, anyone have results or opinions? they sure helped my tbird sc which is no lightweight vehicle @ 4000 lbs.

 

Totally my opinion here....

But I would definately NOT use Ford brake pads again. Mine have not stopped squealing since I got the truck. Light brake pressure-they squeal. Brake harder to make it stop-still squeals. It's driving me nuts. I get a lot of looks, but unfortunatley it's because my truck makes so much noise when I pull up next to someone.

Sorry.....just have to vent. If anyone has any suggestions on a good aftermarket pad....please let me know.

Thanks

------------------
White 2000 L
#2250
PSP filter
F-1 AAD Hood

 

The performance friction pads last a long time, don't generate near as much black dust and seem to stop better, too. http://www.performancefriction.com/Products.html

 

I put Performance Frictions on the BACK of mine at 2608 miles.
I had taken the stock pads off twice, sanded to remove glazing, tried the "no squeal" coating you apply on metal back of pad, tried different tricks for "wearing in" the pads. Nothing helped.

Perf. Friction ($49 AutoZone) will just barely squeal, every now and then. NOTHING like stock ones did...

 

I've got performance friction on the front and bendix on the back. I love the performance friction pads, but I think they generate much more heat than the stock ones. Also, they take longer to attain full braking power than stock. If you are looking for a good street pad, Bendix is probably the best compromise between the cold braking capability of the stock and the superior track capability of the PF pads.

 

How do I find out the answer to the question, are there any step-by-step instructions for changing the pads? Thanks!

 

There a little tricky but nothing you cant handle


Sorry I dont have a step by step and it's hard to see the steel clips with mine painted Red, but pay attention to those clips, they are the key to doing it.

I believe they are suppose to be pulled out to get the Caliper off, however I'm on the 3rd set of Pads and never pulled them out (the clips)

After removing the 2 bolts (as said some yrs need a T45, some DONT)
you simply hinge the Calipers out of that outter frame, (that big backwards C looking thang) that DOES NOT need to come off).

One side will hinge out from the botton up, the other side from the top down.

(on this picture the TOP would swing out)





(on that picture you can clearly see the top goes in first, and comes out last)

It's really this easy.
#1 remove two bolts
#2 swing out the Caliper
#3 get out the big ole C clamp and use the OLD pads to press the pistons in
#4 install the new pads
#5 swing Caliper back in
(as said each side is opposite)

hope that helps Bro .....