I think I heard a little pinging...
I think I heard a little pinging...
ok...
I had my 01 L tuned with a 4 lb pulley and a 170 t-stat on it... and that was the only 2 mods I had on it... i got 401/510.. it was tuned perfectly on a/f and timing... no pinging or nothing...
this was about a month ago... since then, I removed my cats and added hi-flow magnaflows, and an AEM brute force CAI.
Last night I was driving around after i installed my new autometer boost gauge. and I heard what i thought under heavy acceleration pinging... now last night it was about 68 degrees outside.. kinda cool...
I have been told that adding a CAI and exhaust would NOT require adjustments to a tune, but now I hear pinging, and did not before... Or could it be that the new intake is just louder and I am confusing the tale tale sign of marbles in a can? The noise I hear is not very loud... i think I hear it oh so slightly... and only with my windows up.
i'm a little worried... and thinking about getting her re-tuned.
before i do that though.. I am going to put a 6lb pulley, and complete customize my exhuast with and x-pipe and d/i d/o magnaflow.
I think I shoudl wait... until i get those things on there, because i don't want to have to re-tune it again.. once i get the 6lber i am done modding it...
What do you all think?
I had my 01 L tuned with a 4 lb pulley and a 170 t-stat on it... and that was the only 2 mods I had on it... i got 401/510.. it was tuned perfectly on a/f and timing... no pinging or nothing...
this was about a month ago... since then, I removed my cats and added hi-flow magnaflows, and an AEM brute force CAI.
Last night I was driving around after i installed my new autometer boost gauge. and I heard what i thought under heavy acceleration pinging... now last night it was about 68 degrees outside.. kinda cool...
I have been told that adding a CAI and exhaust would NOT require adjustments to a tune, but now I hear pinging, and did not before... Or could it be that the new intake is just louder and I am confusing the tale tale sign of marbles in a can? The noise I hear is not very loud... i think I hear it oh so slightly... and only with my windows up.
i'm a little worried... and thinking about getting her re-tuned.
before i do that though.. I am going to put a 6lb pulley, and complete customize my exhuast with and x-pipe and d/i d/o magnaflow.
I think I shoudl wait... until i get those things on there, because i don't want to have to re-tune it again.. once i get the 6lber i am done modding it...
What do you all think?
Originally Posted by LTNDave
to save your fuel pumps NEVER let it go below 1/2 tank, the pumps will heat up and fail, and you wallet won't like it either.
Nice numbers you got with a 4lber
Nice numbers you got with a 4lber
Originally Posted by cklepinger
What do you all think?
You also have to remember our computer is adaptive learning. On a cooler night is when this can become a problem, what can happen is the computer can throw some timing at it, (when its real cold up to 3 degrees more), and if your just tooling alone all mellow it's going to pull some fuel and then all of a sudden you hit it, YES IT GOES LEAN happens all the time.
This is why when you drive to the track and you've been just mellowing alone on the parkway for hours you MUST disconnect the Batt and reset the computer BEFORE racing it. Or just do as I do and beat the ever living schitt out of it 24/7 so it's always ready to rumble
You need to find out your timing #'s and yes maybe pull a little timing. As a general rule 16 degrees is about normal with a Eaton + 4lb for the street.
What I use to do with Blacky#1 to keep it safe with the NY temps was use my N20 program as my street tune all Fall and Winter. I did this because my timing was locked at 16 degrees on the n20 program
With this Whipple it makes so much power you have to pull ALOT of timing,
I prob have 9-10 degrees on my street tune so it's ok even in the winter months.
Try some fresh fuel, maybe add a little 100 ocatane and see what happens,
GOOD LUCK
hm... fuel filter... I need to change that... I bought the truck about a month ago, and have not changed that... duh...
I will also call up my tuner and ask him where my timing is.. if it helps, it was tuned on a mustang dyno, and then I was at a dyno day with some friends on a dynojet just for numbers...
Think I will do that tomorrow...
Thanks..
I will also call up my tuner and ask him where my timing is.. if it helps, it was tuned on a mustang dyno, and then I was at a dyno day with some friends on a dynojet just for numbers...
Think I will do that tomorrow...
Thanks..
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OK, so i went to the parts house and got a fuel filter and replaced it...
I still have a little pinging above 4800rpm @ WOT.
I guess what I want to know is........ Can adding a CAI and a full exhaust cause pinging if I had a tune before those changes? I got a AEM Brute force CAI. It has a heat shield, but I know now too that it is about 20 degrees warmer outside than when I had it tuned.... Reguardless I have to have my tune tweaked. SO, should I go ahead and put on a 6lb pulley before my tune on Friday, or should I not? I can have them tune it conservativly... If I add the 6lber will I notice a difference over the 4lber? or am i risking too much? I want to feel that pull, but safely. I also do not want to be pinging when the temps outside hit 100+ in a month or 2.
AAHHHH this is frustrating.... this is not nearly as bad as my fully built 12 sec v6f150 I had a year ago.. but close... I was thinking it would be easier than a turboed v6. I pinged that to pieces... not gonna do that again..
I want my 425-450 RWHP... What do I need to do, to do that safely from this point?
I still have a little pinging above 4800rpm @ WOT.
I guess what I want to know is........ Can adding a CAI and a full exhaust cause pinging if I had a tune before those changes? I got a AEM Brute force CAI. It has a heat shield, but I know now too that it is about 20 degrees warmer outside than when I had it tuned.... Reguardless I have to have my tune tweaked. SO, should I go ahead and put on a 6lb pulley before my tune on Friday, or should I not? I can have them tune it conservativly... If I add the 6lber will I notice a difference over the 4lber? or am i risking too much? I want to feel that pull, but safely. I also do not want to be pinging when the temps outside hit 100+ in a month or 2.
AAHHHH this is frustrating.... this is not nearly as bad as my fully built 12 sec v6f150 I had a year ago.. but close... I was thinking it would be easier than a turboed v6. I pinged that to pieces... not gonna do that again..
I want my 425-450 RWHP... What do I need to do, to do that safely from this point?
The problem is the AEM bruteforce, it is a 98mm tube, as opposed to the 90mm stock maf housing, due to the larger tube the maf counts will be lower for a given volume of air, thus the ecu will give less fuel to the motor resulting in a leaner A/F ratio, you need to be retuned for the larger MAF opening of the AEM tube, I have the Fram Boost which is identical to the AEM and made by AEM, it is simply gray, but it had to be tuned once it went on doe to what i just said.
I gaurentee that when retuned for the larger MAF tube your problems will be solved.
I gaurentee that when retuned for the larger MAF tube your problems will be solved.
Originally Posted by pitstain
The problem is the AEM bruteforce, it is a 98mm tube, as opposed to the 90mm stock maf housing, due to the larger tube the maf counts will be lower for a given volume of air, thus the ecu will give less fuel to the motor resulting in a leaner A/F ratio, you need to be retuned for the larger MAF opening of the AEM tube, I have the Fram Boost which is identical to the AEM and made by AEM, it is simply gray, but it had to be tuned once it went on doe to what i just said.
I gaurentee that when retuned for the larger MAF tube your problems will be solved.
I gaurentee that when retuned for the larger MAF tube your problems will be solved.
Nice one PS
Well, What I thought was a little pinging, was in fact alot of pinging...
my truck started running really rough, and i heard a knocking sound,
This happened after I was on the highway and some dude from mexico was driving 60 in the fast lane... I floored it, and went around him... then I heard a **** load of marbles in a can as I hit 120 MPH... then it felt like it hit a brick wall and lost ALL power
the truck was still running, as I was 80 miles from home, so I slowed to 55 and put her in cruise...
When I got home I checked my front 2 plugs... they looked like this:


so I pulled them all out... and then I found a third one on the passenger side all the way in tha back like this too... I surprised my truck ran at all...
so I called up my tuner and was bitching becasue I paid for a tune, and I was detonating to pieces... good thing the only damage was 15 bucks in a set of plugs....
so I started looking for a reason that the dyno would be saying I am at 11.6-11.8 a/f..
and I found out that even though I had disconnected my egr valve, and had it shut off in the tune, it managed to get itself stuck open... so under hard acceleration it was sucking hot un-metered air into the intake... I'm not sure if this is whats wrong, and I am going back tuesday to have a couple pulls done and have the A/F checked...
I made a little plate and stuck it between the gr valve and the upper intake manifold... I didn't have the egr delete **** for the manifold, so its the best I could do at the moment..
would an egr valve thats turned off but stuck open casue this problem in your opinions?
I put the new plugs in and it runs like a champ... however I am scared to go boosting until I get it checked on the dyno...
Thanks
my truck started running really rough, and i heard a knocking sound,
This happened after I was on the highway and some dude from mexico was driving 60 in the fast lane... I floored it, and went around him... then I heard a **** load of marbles in a can as I hit 120 MPH... then it felt like it hit a brick wall and lost ALL power
the truck was still running, as I was 80 miles from home, so I slowed to 55 and put her in cruise...
When I got home I checked my front 2 plugs... they looked like this:


so I pulled them all out... and then I found a third one on the passenger side all the way in tha back like this too... I surprised my truck ran at all...
so I called up my tuner and was bitching becasue I paid for a tune, and I was detonating to pieces... good thing the only damage was 15 bucks in a set of plugs....
so I started looking for a reason that the dyno would be saying I am at 11.6-11.8 a/f..
and I found out that even though I had disconnected my egr valve, and had it shut off in the tune, it managed to get itself stuck open... so under hard acceleration it was sucking hot un-metered air into the intake... I'm not sure if this is whats wrong, and I am going back tuesday to have a couple pulls done and have the A/F checked...
I made a little plate and stuck it between the gr valve and the upper intake manifold... I didn't have the egr delete **** for the manifold, so its the best I could do at the moment..
would an egr valve thats turned off but stuck open casue this problem in your opinions?
I put the new plugs in and it runs like a champ... however I am scared to go boosting until I get it checked on the dyno...
Thanks
NOPE.... put my 6lber back on, and I still have detonation...
What a PITA............
Now i gotta go have it retuned, and those people will probably charge me again, even though I told him I heard pinging on the test drivwe out with the tuner.....
What a PITA............
Now i gotta go have it retuned, and those people will probably charge me again, even though I told him I heard pinging on the test drivwe out with the tuner.....


