Ram Air Pics
Looks like the URL or the "address" isn't complete. This is probably the case.
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
That is the most FUNCTIONAL one I've seen yet!!!!
Have you tried a run, dyno or butt dyno with the fender hole in the stock box closed off? This would seem to give the "purest" "ram" air possible.... Can you really push in enough air to increase the pressures in the intake manifold past the intercooler? In theory it sounds possible, but in reality it seems like it would take a lot of pressure...
But still, this looks like the BEST method for the max amount of cool fresh air!!!!
Thanx KGM!!!!
Have you tried a run, dyno or butt dyno with the fender hole in the stock box closed off? This would seem to give the "purest" "ram" air possible.... Can you really push in enough air to increase the pressures in the intake manifold past the intercooler? In theory it sounds possible, but in reality it seems like it would take a lot of pressure...
But still, this looks like the BEST method for the max amount of cool fresh air!!!!
Thanx KGM!!!!
I think the idea is right, but actually "ramming" air into it isnt possible. You cant "force" air into something that wont "accept" it. Take a straw for example, partially compress itwith your fingers, then try blowing through it (forcing or in this case "ramming" air into it), it can only "flow" a certain amount at a time. By blowing harder you wont necessaly get any more into it, only so much can go in @ a time. Our engine can only take "so much" air, that tryng to "force" anymore in, it wont take it. All the "ram-air" kits people are trying here isnt "forcing" anymore into the engine, they are only making sure that the engine is getting the most air possible that the engine can use. It cant get anyomre in than it can handle. I hope this makes sense.
yes yoda BUT,
the ram air works like the blower in effect supplying pressurized air to the engine...in reality though you probably have to be going 500 miles an hour to make difference. If you calculate the volumn of air the motor can use versus the volumn of air that can be delivered through a 4 inch supply line, you will find that in theory its a neat idea but in actuality its not that effective. The idea of supplying colder air external of the engine compartment, should make more of a dramatic effect than the ram air itself.
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jim@bulldogneon.com
smokin'
[This message has been edited by BulldogSVT (edited 11-07-2000).]
the ram air works like the blower in effect supplying pressurized air to the engine...in reality though you probably have to be going 500 miles an hour to make difference. If you calculate the volumn of air the motor can use versus the volumn of air that can be delivered through a 4 inch supply line, you will find that in theory its a neat idea but in actuality its not that effective. The idea of supplying colder air external of the engine compartment, should make more of a dramatic effect than the ram air itself.
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jim@bulldogneon.com
smokin'
[This message has been edited by BulldogSVT (edited 11-07-2000).]
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At the risk of going way out of bounds concerning the physics of compressed gases....
If the air is pressurized to some level above atmoshperic pressure, then the blower would be more efficient at compressing the air that does go into the engine.
Now the blower will only compress the air to a certain psi... but if the air is already pressurized, then the blower would be more efficient. Thus, with a higher efficiency, the air charge SHOULD be cooler... which would equate to higher HP...
Nitrous works in a very similar way... higher pressurized air on a NA engine would equate to higher intake pressures. On a blower engine, the nitrous forces a higher concentration of oxygen, but also, it cools the air charge...
Look at it this way... if we took the reverse situation... i.e. we create a vacuum in the air box... there is no way you can tell me that the engine would still perform the same as it would at atmospheric pressures...
If the air is pressurized to some level above atmoshperic pressure, then the blower would be more efficient at compressing the air that does go into the engine.
Now the blower will only compress the air to a certain psi... but if the air is already pressurized, then the blower would be more efficient. Thus, with a higher efficiency, the air charge SHOULD be cooler... which would equate to higher HP...
Nitrous works in a very similar way... higher pressurized air on a NA engine would equate to higher intake pressures. On a blower engine, the nitrous forces a higher concentration of oxygen, but also, it cools the air charge...
Look at it this way... if we took the reverse situation... i.e. we create a vacuum in the air box... there is no way you can tell me that the engine would still perform the same as it would at atmospheric pressures...
Seeing everyone building forced air systems I thought why not one more. I think that's the great thing about this board and these trucks, everyone trying something new and trying to go faster. The "blastgate" should be nice for trucks running in harsh weather so you can close if needed. Seat of the pants it feels stronger but it could be wishful thinking, only a ET will tell. I don't know if "blastgate" is a ram air a cold air or a little of both but for under 40 bucks it sure can't hurt anything. I'll keep the PSP on the shelf order a K&N and run it for awhile.
So, just curious, how do you close the "Blastgate"? I see a huge tube, but how do you seal that where no water could come up it (if it where possible in the first place)?
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
Hope this works, just slide the gate closed. It has a screw with a plastic turn piece to hold it. The gate is under the box Marcus don't have a pic of the bottom, sorry. Now if I could just do it from the inside of the cab that would be real cool. Bet BaBolt could make a vac actuated one.[This message has been edited by KGM (edited 11-08-2000).]
Seems like the best one yet KGM. Great idea!
Now I'm just curious how it stands up to all the other filter combos in ways of performance.
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
Now I'm just curious how it stands up to all the other filter combos in ways of performance.
-Marcus
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Black 2001 ordered 10/31/00. As another member said, "Now the wait begins"
I think it looks like a great system also. Simplicity at it's finest. The only thing I think I'd do different is use a plastic intake scoop up front like the JL system.
I had a link at one time to a company that sold the plastic scoops and parts seperatly for people to make their own systems. I can't find the link now. Does anyone have a link to a site like that?
Thanks............
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Dave
dgoetsch@socal.rr.com
2000 Red SVT Lightning
Superchip R9
Line-X spray-in bedliner
Snugtop Snuglid
Tinted side windows
Lightning Hitch Cover
Many more to come.......
Ok the "blastgate" came from Woodworkers (702-871-0722) part #W1142 4" alum for $11.00. I'm sure they will ship for a few bucks more. Hose (4") came from them too but it comes in 10' lenghts and you might be able to find in your area. If not part #W1031 for $13.90. Scoop from Home Depot 6 into 4 round for about $4.00. You will need 4 longer 10-24 screws to mount it under the stock air box,1" will do. And a 4" hole saw. Any other help let me know, it's pretty easy to do. Red ... I've got a e-mail sent to Autophysics they sell scoops checking it out may change to one of their's but this one works fine for now.
[This message has been edited by KGM (edited 11-08-2000).]
[This message has been edited by KGM (edited 11-08-2000).]



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