Tranny problems today!!!!!!!!!! :(
It sounds like metal to metal rubbing like brake pads down to the rivets. It only does it in 1st and reverse. Got louder as I drove home. Slipped when taking off a couple of times, then engaged (like it was in neautral then put into gear). 2nd, 3rd and OD appear to be ok.
Fluid level is fine. Its not affected by braking or how hard you take off.
Anyone had tranny problems like this before or know what causes this?
Its off to the shop tomorrow, if it makes it. Its my only transportation right now and I live 20 miles from the closest dealer.
Fluid level is fine. Its not affected by braking or how hard you take off.
Anyone had tranny problems like this before or know what causes this?
Its off to the shop tomorrow, if it makes it. Its my only transportation right now and I live 20 miles from the closest dealer.
Hmmm, sounds like the fiber plates in the one way clutch to me, is your fluid brown? failing that, it could be teh heavy clutch, the one that was replaced by the mechanical diode this year. (we call it the sprag, you cvan't have a mechanical diode in a '00 or a '99, and contrary to the problem with the initial design a mechanical diode is more reliable than the old style sprag)
That's a real strange thing to go wrong actually, could also be a check ball but that would've shown up sooner. Give me the serial number of the transmission, and I'll check if it had any problems at teh factory. The serial number is a four digit number on preceded by a gaggle of zeros on the ID tag, drivers side just forward of the extension housing, should be the number on the line above the one that starts BD annd has a four character code in it, that number is the build date.
let me know,
GBE
[This message has been edited by Factory_Tech (edited 10-13-2000).]
That's a real strange thing to go wrong actually, could also be a check ball but that would've shown up sooner. Give me the serial number of the transmission, and I'll check if it had any problems at teh factory. The serial number is a four digit number on preceded by a gaggle of zeros on the ID tag, drivers side just forward of the extension housing, should be the number on the line above the one that starts BD annd has a four character code in it, that number is the build date.
let me know,
GBE
[This message has been edited by Factory_Tech (edited 10-13-2000).]
Hey Kevin,
The other Red in Ramona here. I had a similar experience. Although mine was leaking fluid on the showroom floor 75 miles on it. I bought it, took it back had a torque converter w/ a hole in it and bad front pump. Dealer "repaired" only to have the similar problem you're having now. Bottom line; take it back it's a safety issue.
The dealership "mine gave me a hard time", said "FORD wont put a 2000, or 2001 trans in a 99. I fought and they replaced the trans and converter, a 2000 in a 99. "SAFETY" is the key word. If it locks up w/wife and or kids in the truck what could happen.
Sorry so long. Where did you purchase? Mine was in Mission Valley.
The other Red in Ramona here. I had a similar experience. Although mine was leaking fluid on the showroom floor 75 miles on it. I bought it, took it back had a torque converter w/ a hole in it and bad front pump. Dealer "repaired" only to have the similar problem you're having now. Bottom line; take it back it's a safety issue.
The dealership "mine gave me a hard time", said "FORD wont put a 2000, or 2001 trans in a 99. I fought and they replaced the trans and converter, a 2000 in a 99. "SAFETY" is the key word. If it locks up w/wife and or kids in the truck what could happen.
Sorry so long. Where did you purchase? Mine was in Mission Valley.
FactoryIts at the dealer now and I haven't gotten a word on what is wrong so I can't get you the #.
The fluid is bright red, smells good, no foreign matter and has no leaks (still full).
Mystic Got it at Heller, they always been real good to me and my L. I'll post what is wrong when they let me know.
It only grinds in 1st and reverse with a barely audible grind in second.
The fluid is bright red, smells good, no foreign matter and has no leaks (still full).
Mystic Got it at Heller, they always been real good to me and my L. I'll post what is wrong when they let me know.
It only grinds in 1st and reverse with a barely audible grind in second.
Well I guess Im not the only one with bad luck today, My trany has been giving a popping sound/grinding sound from the get go it would also slip, but it wouldnt do it enough for the dealership to say there was a problem, i was also told it goes away with break end. So i just got use to it. Anyway I was leaving today and when I put it in gear it made a loud grinding, popping noise and shook the truck, i tried this from P to R, R to P, N to R, N to P, It slipped even worse then normal today. So i bring it in show the tranny tech and he said let me bring it back and put it on the lift, he dose 20 mins later he comes out and says that were gona have the truck for a while, we got to drop the tranny and break it open and see whats wrong order parts then put it back togeather again. As of now they are clueless on to what is going on for sure, any comments Factory Tech?? or anyone else??
How many miles are on these trucks?
I have 23,500
Here are my problems
intercooler resevoir is dry,
clunk at every parking lot
window had a slight clunk when rolling down.
Should I be worried about my tranny?
I have 23,500
Here are my problems
intercooler resevoir is dry,
clunk at every parking lot
window had a slight clunk when rolling down.
Should I be worried about my tranny?
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Hey Factory_Tech,
My window too. Clunks sometimes when window stops. I had the same clunk in my GT and Cobra. The windows go down pretty qwik sometimes and the clunk is when they "bottom out". just my .02. On the trans thing,
an explanation I got from a tranny God, been rebuilding trans for ever, he's worked em all, and for most dealers, GM, Ford, Dodge etc. His explanation for the noise shifting between 1-2, 2-3 etc. has to do with the clutch plates. He said that our trannies, the L's could be a great trans, but the material that the clutch plates are made of is pot metal, junk. So are the other AOD trans from Ford. Sounds like he knows what's up. I dont know. Again just my .02.
My window too. Clunks sometimes when window stops. I had the same clunk in my GT and Cobra. The windows go down pretty qwik sometimes and the clunk is when they "bottom out". just my .02. On the trans thing,
an explanation I got from a tranny God, been rebuilding trans for ever, he's worked em all, and for most dealers, GM, Ford, Dodge etc. His explanation for the noise shifting between 1-2, 2-3 etc. has to do with the clutch plates. He said that our trannies, the L's could be a great trans, but the material that the clutch plates are made of is pot metal, junk. So are the other AOD trans from Ford. Sounds like he knows what's up. I dont know. Again just my .02.
Got a call today from the dealer, there is chunks of metal in the pan. They said looks like something let loose and it started eating itself up. He is going to call back tomorrow and let me know how long before the new one arrives.
Burnout,
I'd bet a milkshake you have a broken pinion gear on a planetary assembly, that was the "Pop" you heard. ANyway, that's my guess. It's darn hard to diagnose on a wire. Something else I've really wanted to say for a long time, but havent' known how. I've rebuilt somewhere in the 'hood of 35,000 transmissions ( i checked this week, jeez where does the time go), but less than a handfull came out of trucks when I O/H'ed them. I can strip a box to the case and rebuild it in about 35-40 minutes, so I think I'm pretty good at this. But I NEVER get to work on one that's "making a funny noise when I put it in 2nd gear",, When I get one, a computer tells me what it did, mechanically, for instance I get an "855" which is no or low pressure at pump outlet. I replace the pump, or maybe I check the ***** in the vavle body and the seperator plate (wrong plate will give you an 855 every time), it's an art, you just get a feel for it, but I would need years to work at a dealer, because they diagnose totally different than I do, does any one get what I'm saying.....
Other things...
Now, that's the first time I heard anyone mention a window clunk, I have that one. I think I have front end clunk too, but it's pretty intermittent. I do notice a slight pull to the right, when I drive straight I'm turning the whel off center, towards the right.
I'd bet a milkshake you have a broken pinion gear on a planetary assembly, that was the "Pop" you heard. ANyway, that's my guess. It's darn hard to diagnose on a wire. Something else I've really wanted to say for a long time, but havent' known how. I've rebuilt somewhere in the 'hood of 35,000 transmissions ( i checked this week, jeez where does the time go), but less than a handfull came out of trucks when I O/H'ed them. I can strip a box to the case and rebuild it in about 35-40 minutes, so I think I'm pretty good at this. But I NEVER get to work on one that's "making a funny noise when I put it in 2nd gear",, When I get one, a computer tells me what it did, mechanically, for instance I get an "855" which is no or low pressure at pump outlet. I replace the pump, or maybe I check the ***** in the vavle body and the seperator plate (wrong plate will give you an 855 every time), it's an art, you just get a feel for it, but I would need years to work at a dealer, because they diagnose totally different than I do, does any one get what I'm saying.....
Other things...
Now, that's the first time I heard anyone mention a window clunk, I have that one. I think I have front end clunk too, but it's pretty intermittent. I do notice a slight pull to the right, when I drive straight I'm turning the whel off center, towards the right.
All of the clutch plates in a 4R100 and 4R70 (E4OD and AOD) are made of steel, not pot metal, jeesh, they're stress parts, pot metal wouldn't get them off the dealer lots.
The weak parts of an Auto trans are aluminum and steel, the strong ones are powdered metal and cast iron.
The weak parts of an Auto trans are aluminum and steel, the strong ones are powdered metal and cast iron.


