forgive me but ive been thinking if I add a head and cam swap to my stock block I know i'll get more power but what about longeveity. My goal is to go as deep in the 12's as I could without a 6# then vented block. I want to keep boost in the 12lb range but dont the heads add more air-fuel mixture to the combustion chamber (just like more boost) thus adding to the compression ratio? or is this a matter of the flow being better with lower temps I have the money for the heads and cams but not the built block. I thank you for GOOD input

 

I dont know if this is right but cyl pressures and stress on the already weak rods might be a concern as you add more fuel you add timing. My two cents only.

 

This is something I have been wonerding about also. I just installed some LFP stage II heads and cams and am now thinking about a 6# lower. I might wait on the 6 though and go with a 4# since I am wanting this stock bottom end to last at least for awhile until I can afford a built block. You'll love the difference with the heads and cams alone.

 

i wouldn't add heads/cam if you can't afford to fork up the cash for a built bottom end in the event of grenading the motor. You probably COULD add those performance parts safely, but there are just so many things that can hurt these motors. As they say, you gotta pay to play

 

Thanx for your replies. I guess a tech question is to much of a reach for some,guess everyone wants to know who makes the best tireshine for our trucks when I have the money for the built block I will change my goal to deep in the 11's

 

I only want to pull the motor once, so I'm holding off until I can do it the way I want, full long block, I'll wait for the nice cam lobe and power gain to only pay the labor once.

 

Heads and cams will not add longevity to your motor. Spend that money on the bottom end first. Take care of the weak link then worry about going fast. Good chance when one of those stock rods lets go you can kiss those hot new heads good-bye.

 

What do you have against more boost? Not trying to be a **** here but as long as you have a propper tune and try to keep intake air temps down you can get a hell of a lot more power out of these motors with some more boost, safely.
I make 406/504 with 14 psi, a good safe A/F ratio and conservitive timming.

 

thats the power level I'm at. but if you read these pages alot you will notice the same thing over and over it goes like this( I just put on my 6# lower and got a custom tune from ******* and man does this thing fly, then a few monthes later * I blew my engine and dont know why cause I had a safe tune from ****** ) so I say a 6# is over the limit or he didnt have a "safe" tune, thats why I'm not going more then 4#

 

Hey D & B -

I have had my 6 lb lower on for 2 years and 40,000 miles. I'm making 405/517 with what I believe is a safe tune from Sam at Coastal.

Art-Man has had the same set-up for just as long. We added full exhaust and a ported blower to his L last year - he is making around 435 I think. Sam tuned his L as well and everything seems to be good there too.

Anyway, I think you can run a 6 lb lower safely, if you have a good tune.

Not trying to be a smart-a$$, just throwing my personal experience out there.

Where are you at ? Any good tuners near you ?

 

Well, I'm going back to the OLD school and do what they have accomplished with what I already have and I think I shoud listen to it. Having the same feelings as to what you want to do. Tune the truck to what you already have in the engine. I have a 4# 91 octane basic tune Preditor with K/N cold air, wanting to update to an Excal 2 and FTVB. I think I'm going to go with a long tube header exhuast, 2,400 or 2,600 rpm stall, a 4.11 gear and put it to the ground via drag radials or slicks. The best ET's with what you have engine wise, is getting out of the hole, low gears, and a chassis adjustment to relay the shift in weight. I read where chassis adjustment alone gained near .3 to half a second, pending traction. Engine saved? Who knows. As always it's debatable.

 

Well, let's hope not (for my sake at least) but perhaps the "safe tune from******" part is the key.

 

This is the debate.If I add heads I will loose some boost and still have added HP because the heads flow better,but am I adding power because of more flow and fuel in a givin space wich means more compression, just like a larger pulley, or did I miss something? so I will take the others advice and leave well enough alone till I get the built motor. I would like to have my stock motor sealed in a crate eaton and all with a built motor under the hood. Then sometimes I wish I had an older 5.0 to race and leave the truck alone

 

Adding heads and cams increases volumetric efficiency (VE) and will not necessarily raise the compression ratio. Do a search and you'll turn up Danoid's experience with cams only on a stock block and 4 lb. extra boost. He dynoed at 475 rwhp if I remember correctly. Cams and better valve springs will make good safe power with the right tune and supporting fuel system/ MAF mods.

 

this is what I was looking for when I do a search there is so much sometimes
ya just say heck with it and ask. thanx