Calculating Dial-in....
Everyone,
Tomarrow night I plan on running the L at the local 1/8th. And participating in elims...
What is the best way to calculate dial-in??
I realize that you could average your time trials....
Take the best run and subtract .15.....
What seems to work the best.
Also, should I assume that as the night gets colder the times will drop???
Thanks in advance,
------------------
Brian K
kimmel_brian@prc.com
thedink@ix.netcom.com
99.5 Black - Born 5/17/99
Tomarrow night I plan on running the L at the local 1/8th. And participating in elims...
What is the best way to calculate dial-in??
I realize that you could average your time trials....
Take the best run and subtract .15.....
What seems to work the best.
Also, should I assume that as the night gets colder the times will drop???
Thanks in advance,
------------------
Brian K
kimmel_brian@prc.com
thedink@ix.netcom.com
99.5 Black - Born 5/17/99
- 13.766 @ 99.59 (8.865 @ 80.67)
- Tinted Windows
- PSP Intake
- Clear Corners
- Autometer "Phantom" Boost Gauge
- SuperChip "FlipChip" TRAC
- Bedrug
- Alpine Audio w/MB Quarts all around
- Tow Package
- Mobil 1
- Electric I/C Fan
There are a lot of ways to do this Brian. It really boils down to how you like to drive the truck during elims.
If you want to always have a cushion and get out in front, then you want to "sandbag", meaning you dial in .15-.20 _slower_ than your best (or even average) ET. This will allow you to leave the line earlier, but if you're ahead at the end (hopefully!) then you'll need to nail the brakes to avoid breaking out. It also allows some cushion, should you get anxious and spin the tires on the line...of course, you'd have to run this one out completely.
Be careful on assuming that cooler air will always result in a better ET. Certainly the truck should make more power. However, many times if the track surface cools off too much (and isn't prepped accordingly), you'll blow the tires off hard. Degrading starting line conditions, coupled with a little more power from the vehicle will make tire smoke a real possibility. Obviously, that's not good.
If you have raced the truck a lot, then you probably are already pretty accomplished at driving your vehicle. If you have not raced the truck much, then assume you'll also pick up ET with practice. If this is the case for you, then you'll probably see ETs improve just about every time you take it down the track...at least for awhile, til you get really consistent with launch rpms, throttle modulation, etc.
------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
If you want to always have a cushion and get out in front, then you want to "sandbag", meaning you dial in .15-.20 _slower_ than your best (or even average) ET. This will allow you to leave the line earlier, but if you're ahead at the end (hopefully!) then you'll need to nail the brakes to avoid breaking out. It also allows some cushion, should you get anxious and spin the tires on the line...of course, you'd have to run this one out completely.
Be careful on assuming that cooler air will always result in a better ET. Certainly the truck should make more power. However, many times if the track surface cools off too much (and isn't prepped accordingly), you'll blow the tires off hard. Degrading starting line conditions, coupled with a little more power from the vehicle will make tire smoke a real possibility. Obviously, that's not good.
If you have raced the truck a lot, then you probably are already pretty accomplished at driving your vehicle. If you have not raced the truck much, then assume you'll also pick up ET with practice. If this is the case for you, then you'll probably see ETs improve just about every time you take it down the track...at least for awhile, til you get really consistent with launch rpms, throttle modulation, etc.
------------------
Wes Tarbox
90 LX 5.0 (10.69 @ 134.7)--597rwhp/590rwtq
96 Cobra (12.63 @ 114.5)--392rwhp/433rwtq
99 Lightning (13.20 @ 103.3)--364rwhp/444rwtq
00 Expedition XLT 5.4
http://members.aol.com/Wa2fst/index.html
Why would you subtract 0.15s? I'd rather let off or brake at the end to prevent from breaking out, then being behind and not being able to do anything about it. Set your dial-in slightly slower then the time you think you will run. If you make a mistake or if the temperatures increase, you have that extra time to play with. Up here in Alberta, the weather is very unpredictable. Within minutes, the temperatures can fluctuate + or -3degress C, or the wind can shift directions. I guess that's why they let you change your dial-in as your staging at the lights! Your assumption is correct about as the nights get colder the times will drop, but so will your ability to hook up!
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1998 F-150 XLT Reg. Cab Flareside 4x4, Black, 5.4L, 3.55LS, tow package, 285/75/r16 Mud Terrain BFG's,K&N, GTS headlight covers, Alpine changer w/FM mod, Clifford alarm system w/keyless entry & starter disable // Future considerations: Bed mat, tonneau cover, 4" suspension lift.
1971 F-100 Sport Custom Reg. Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Hydraulic Crane Cam, 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
[This message has been edited by fordification (edited 08-24-2000).]
------------------
1998 F-150 XLT Reg. Cab Flareside 4x4, Black, 5.4L, 3.55LS, tow package, 285/75/r16 Mud Terrain BFG's,K&N, GTS headlight covers, Alpine changer w/FM mod, Clifford alarm system w/keyless entry & starter disable // Future considerations: Bed mat, tonneau cover, 4" suspension lift.
1971 F-100 Sport Custom Reg. Cab
-390FE w/Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 780cfm Holley, ported & polished cylinder heads,
Hydraulic Crane Cam, 10.5:1 CR, Black Jack headers, true double roller timing chain, and high volume oil pump
-C6 transmision w/B&M 2600rpm stall
-9" Ford Rearend w/4.10 Richmond Gears & 31 spline axles
-215/65/r15 Yokohama's for the front & 28"x13.5"x15" Mickey Thompson ET Street slicks for the back
[This message has been edited by fordification (edited 08-24-2000).]


