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A few questions on boost bypass?

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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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04ligtnngstruck's Avatar
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Question A few questions on boost bypass?

i have a 2004 L and I am thinking about doing the boost bypass setup. I was wondering though is it really worth it? What benefits will it give me performace wise if i do this setup. Will it affect my daily engine performance or no? any input is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:45 AM
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There is no daily performance gain whatsoever.
It might bypass if you do a big enough burnout against the footbrake at the strip but that's all.
If it worries you, have it turned off by your tuner (if you have an Xcal or diablosport etc) or otherwise just unplug it at the track.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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is it worth it, hard to answer; you will see a 2-3 psi increase, I have it done on mine but it feel it makes little if any difference. As far as daily driving it should not hurt it, you might the s/c whining more. If you so choose a better way to diable the boost by-pass valve is through the computer with a custom tune, an dwhile your at it you can gain so power, much more than doing the boost by-pass. If you are running a larger amount of boost, I would highly recomend a custom tune and have the boost by-pass controlled throught the tune than by just doing the common 'vacuum tube fix' IMO.

or you can just unplug the actuator solenoid ( where the vacuum lines hook to, then to the boost by-pass valve) it will have the same effect as the above methods.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by 04ligtnngstruck
i have a 2004 L and I am thinking about doing the boost bypass setup. I was wondering though is it really worth it? What benefits will it give me performace wise if i do this setup. Will it affect my daily engine performance or no? any input is greatly appreciated.
The boost dump "bypass" does NOT give you any performance gain. It does not affect boost, or anything else that would control performance. The boost dump is there so that if the PCM sees a major engine problem, it can kill the ability for the blower to make boost by keeping the bypass actuator open. This only happens on a failsafe, and does not come into play on daily driving or under normal performance driving.

The reason for the "bypassing" of the boost dump, is because when you do a burnout, that's considered a failsafe (brake torque) by the PCM and then it can shut down your boost. We came across this issue when the trucks first came out.

If you have a tune, it can be disabled in the tune. Or you can just unplug the dump solenoid. There is no reason IMO to spend any money on this.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by LightningTuner
The boost dump "bypass" does NOT give you any performance gain. It does not affect boost, or anything else that would control performance. The boost dump is there so that if the PCM sees a major engine problem, it can kill the ability for the blower to make boost by keeping the bypass actuator open. This only happens on a failsafe, and does not come into play on daily driving or under normal performance driving.

The reason for the "bypassing" of the boost dump, is because when you do a burnout, that's considered a failsafe (brake torque) by the PCM and then it can shut down your boost. We came across this issue when the trucks first came out.

If you have a tune, it can be disabled in the tune. Or you can just unplug the dump solenoid. There is no reason IMO to spend any money on this.
Hey Sal, that's what I said
 
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Old Sep 11, 2006 | 01:47 PM
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If you want to do the Bypass all the fittings can be purchased at a local auto zone, advanced auto, pep-boys, etc..etc...etc. Don't waste the money on buying from your local Ford Dealer or Internet sites. I did the bypass realized no gains except for under extreme tire heating situations. Even then I only had my bypass open on one run.

Go to www.RPMoutlet.com and it'll give you a step-by-step along with part numbers so you can purchase the individual parts yourself.


Like everyone before me stated...you will see no gains from the cheap mod.
If you don't do a lot of burnouts then this mod would be useless to you.

Thanks,
01_White_Light
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by 01_White_Light
If you want to do the Bypass all the fittings can be purchased at a local auto zone, advanced auto, pep-boys, etc..etc...etc. Don't waste the money on buying from your local Ford Dealer or Internet sites. I did the bypass realized no gains except for under extreme tire heating situations. Even then I only had my bypass open on one run.

Go to www.RPMoutlet.com and it'll give you a step-by-step along with part numbers so you can purchase the individual parts yourself.


Like everyone before me stated...you will see no gains from the cheap mod.
If you don't do a lot of burnouts then this mod would be useless to you.

Thanks,
01_White_Light
I run a 4lb in the winter and 6lb in the summer and if I had not done the Boost Bypass mod my actuator dumps the boost @ 10lbs regarless if I'm doing a burn out or just trying to beat a yellow light. w/ the bypass I can achieve 10 in stock form, 14 w/ the 4lb lower and 16.5 w/ the 6lb lower.

Not saying anyone is wrong, just pointing out what it does on MY truck. Every vehicle is different.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:27 PM
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From: TXSVTLIGHTNING
Originally Posted by LTNDave
I run a 4lb in the winter and 6lb in the summer and if I had not done the Boost Bypass mod my actuator dumps the boost @ 10lbs regarless if I'm doing a burn out or just trying to beat a yellow light. w/ the bypass I can achieve 10 in stock form, 14 w/ the 4lb lower and 16.5 w/ the 6lb lower.

Not saying anyone is wrong, just pointing out what it does on MY truck. Every vehicle is different.
Usually will notice it at the track after heating up some slicks, then staging and then going down the dragstrip. You will expect the truck to get up and go but instead it's like falling on it's a$$.

Easy thing to do once you get to the track, then plug it back in prior to leaving.
 
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