Gap Denso's or leave alone?
Gap Denso's or leave alone?
The Denso sight says to leave the plugs alone and install them with there .044 gap. Is it better to close the gap down to 0.035-0.038 with a wire tool? How do you close the gap with a wire tool and not touch the electrode? Seems to even measure the gap once you close it some the gap measuring tool would touch the electrode.
Be very carefull gapping those. Real easy to bend the electrode. I use the Jacobs spark plug gapping tool when doing.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=16539
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...tegoryId=16539
You should always check the gap on plugs. When they are supposedly "preset" - they are preset to the factory specifications, as the plug manufacturer has to assume it is to be installed on a stock vehicle. I've installed hundreds of plugs over the years, and generally found gaps all over the place - some right on, some way off. "You" want to know that they are gapped where they should be for your application and for your own self knowledge - especially when the plugs aren't easy to change.
Personally on Denso's I carefully take my time and use "feeler gauges", gradually working my way up, to set the gap. For example, if I want them at .038, I'll start checking with feelers at about .030 and work my way up, adjusting the side electrode as needed - until .038 fits in there rather easily - but an .039 doesn't seem to want to slip in there. If to begin with, the gap is much greater than .038, then I bend the side electrode very slightly until I'm close to .038 - then a final tap or two with a small brass ball peen hammer to bring it down to where the .039 feeler doesn't seem to want to enter the gap - but the .038 feeler fits in. I know that for all practical purposes - this is about as close to any specific number that I can set them. With the equipment available to most of us - we'll never really know if the gap is at a plus or minus a thousandth of our target - and for most of us most of the time - one thousandth isn't going to make any real difference. As previously noted - just be real careful on the center electrode that you don't "jam" something into it - or "yank" something through it - like a wire gauge for example - and you'll be just fine.
Personally on Denso's I carefully take my time and use "feeler gauges", gradually working my way up, to set the gap. For example, if I want them at .038, I'll start checking with feelers at about .030 and work my way up, adjusting the side electrode as needed - until .038 fits in there rather easily - but an .039 doesn't seem to want to slip in there. If to begin with, the gap is much greater than .038, then I bend the side electrode very slightly until I'm close to .038 - then a final tap or two with a small brass ball peen hammer to bring it down to where the .039 feeler doesn't seem to want to enter the gap - but the .038 feeler fits in. I know that for all practical purposes - this is about as close to any specific number that I can set them. With the equipment available to most of us - we'll never really know if the gap is at a plus or minus a thousandth of our target - and for most of us most of the time - one thousandth isn't going to make any real difference. As previously noted - just be real careful on the center electrode that you don't "jam" something into it - or "yank" something through it - like a wire gauge for example - and you'll be just fine.
Originally Posted by kwilt
i know when i got mine from JLP he told me not to gap them as they come pre gapped, i'm not sure if he gaps them or if they way they come is gapped...
I just had my 2001 L's engine replaced with a new engine. I had the tech remove the Motorcraft's and install Denso IT 24s. I checked the gaps(.040-.045?) but did not try to close them up as the center electrode is so likely to break.
The engine starts, idles, and runs great.
Dan
The engine starts, idles, and runs great.
Dan


