was running a 50 shot before the new motor (nx kit)

now i'm running a 75 shot on the jlp shortblock with stage 2's and heads with ported eaton 10lb lower

tuned it on the dyno, everything ws fine, put on longtubes and new tranny,put it back on the dyno, everything was fine

took it home, made 4 street passes and she pulled like a raped ape.

was running sals open filter kit, thursday night i put on my JLP ram air kit, it moves the mass air 180 degrees, on the way to the track i get engine code 1121 - Throttle Position Sensor Inconsistent with Mass Air Flow Sensor

cleared the code, made 2 passes without the bottle, felt good, pulled the highest n/a mph it had. made a pass on the bottle, and the nitrous felt like it was on and off, talked to ken ad MD and he looked at the truck, saw the MAF was turned and that could be causing the truck to rune lean or rich and not to run nitrous again

put it on the dyno and it had richened the truck to about 10.8 or so, ken changed the MAF function and the street and race tune were perfect again. however, now the nitrous feels like it's on and off,

at first, we though it was a wiring issue, and i redid all the grounds, did have a not so great ground on the relay. now, the switch is working great, you can hear both solenoids activating (have the safety switch bypassed),

so, we thought maybe chattering in the relay, wired in a light on the output of the relay, and no dimming, flickering, nothing, so now i'm at a loss

after testing tonight, all of a sudden the 1121 code came on again

so, here are my questions,

#1, could the JLP ram air be causing all of my problems?
#2, if it's not a power issue, is it possible the solenoid is bad, ( i've been leaning against this because on the dyno when the nitrous was spiking in and out, the a/f wasn't getting too out of sorts, which makes me think both solenoids were kicking off, of course it is still possible that a solenoid is bad
#3, what the heck is going on?

 

Do you have a wideband on your truck? If so what is it doing on the nitrous when it makes the on off feeling?

 

#1, could the JLP ram air be causing all of my problems?
#2, if it's not a power issue, is it possible the solenoid is bad, ( i've been leaning against this because on the dyno when the nitrous was spiking in and out, the a/f wasn't getting too out of sorts, which makes me think both solenoids were kicking off, of course it is still possible that a solenoid is bad
#3, what the heck is going on?

Beef

Def "NO" on the JLP causing any prob
My most fun (and success) was def on the ole stock block
Here's an old pic, juiced the chit out of it for two years that way (ran flawless)



As for the Solenoid being bad ?
Bad is a big word, how bout maybe a wittle something something got in there

Been spraying since 1979 without EVER having a solenoid problem on numerous diff kits and brands used along the way. HOWEVER last year strangely enough when we did my original motor, all of a sudden my Solenoid
was spitting off and on and causing all kinds of trouble, drove us NUTS @&$%
Denny insisted something got in the Solenoid (and he was right)

Simple Test, easy to find out if thats it
Simply take your Nitrous line off the nozzle (keep it attached to the Solenoid)
Truck OFF (and at a time you wont be starting it for a while since you'll be spraying fuel into the motor and you want it to evaporate)
With Truck off and holding the nitrous line against something nice and firm (say holding it tightly against the upper and let is spray up at the hood)
Then simply engauge the system and watch the flow, (you'll know if it's spitting) IF IT IS spitting you simply have something in there (been there done that) AND there's no better way to blow out a Solenoid than using 1000 psi of go go juice flowing in the opposite direction. ; o )

(of course for this you would need to disconnect the Solenoid to Nozzle Line altogether, and then hook up the Nitrous Feed line to the Nozzle side of the Solenoid and simply blow the chit right back out the other side (been there done that)

As for what the heck is going on???
Since you all of a sudden have "2" problems, 1121 code and possible Off and On Solenoid operation, I got to believe it's NOT the JLP Box or Maf Direction change, BUT it is something you touched and or did while you made that change. AND remember that box also has ANOTHER SENSOR going to it, and another electrical Plug.




I would check the TPS Voltage and all Electrical Connections
(especially if you have a TPS activated Switch as I do)

I would re-check both sensor's and connections to the JLB Box,

and if all else fails check the flow of the N20 Solenoid ???

 

i thought about that, i was told that the flow is so high, that you probably wouldn't notice it spitting, but maybe i'll try it anyway

as far as the sensor in the jlp box, the other sensor just measures the iat1 temps correct?

i have it pointed perfendicular to the ground, the JLP instruction kit says it should be vertical, correct?

 

we had it on the dyno when it was doing the on and off thing, it was compensating pretty quick and mainting a/f

 

okay, just tried spraying it up, i think it may have been sputtering a bit, of course my psi seems to be a little low too,

gonna wait for bottle pressure to come back up and then try it again

 

ive seen this problem with a few trucks out here on the west coast,,,,most of them are using sct software

you must get the maf function fixed,,,that code you stated is from your maf

it is the tune no doubt in my mind,,,,good luck

ive been where you are right now

 

okay, went out tonight and did the light bulb thing again, except this time with a volt meter

we wired it up so the voltmeter was hooked up to the relay ground and out to solenoid, but wired in other tabs so we could test it with the nitrous not actually firing, and then with it firing

so, hit it about 4 or 5 times with the nitrous not actually firing and the voltmeter was showing 13.5 volts, nx said i need at least 12v, so the 13.5 was just what the truck should be putting out anyway

now, hooked the nitrous in line, hit it, the nitrous felt on and off again, the voltmeter however never even showed more than maybe a volt if that. tried it about 3 times and the same everytime.

pulled to a stop sign, unplugged it, hit it again, and the meter went back to 13.5 volts

talked to my electrician buddy, he asked if it was a steady .5 volt or jumping around. i told him jumping around, he said one of the solenoids if definately on and off, because it's on and off, the meter cant read it and thats why it's fluctuating around .5 volt or so

he said tomorrow to cut into the ground and power on each of the 2 solenoids and test the ohms and that will tell me which one is bad

sound right?

probably not the tune

 

okay, fuel solenoid 5.0 ohms

nitrous solenoid 0.6 ohms

i'm assuming the .6 is bad?

 

Beef, I just replied on NLOC but .6 ohm on my meter is a dead short, thats a problem.

 

well, it depends on how the solenoid is being read with the meter, but I would say if they are that far off, that could be your problem.

Maybe it got friend when you were having the battery issues on the dyno?

 

It is hard to properly read the ohm's on a solenoid where it is an inductor and the magnetic field pulls open the plunger. The longer you hold the meter on the solenoid the more it should charge and therefore change the ohm reading. I am not positive but I am pretty sure that the .6 ohm's would be the correct reading for the solenoid because it is just a coil of wire and should read as almost a dead short.

 

I was just thinking, maybe you could have someone else measure the resistance of thier solenoids to compare with yours. I have a zex kit so mine are not readily available but I will pull it apart and check if no one else volenteers.

 

bought a new solenoid, tested it, .6 ohms as well

decided to rewire the only 2 wires i hadn't the power off the relay to each solenoid

fine now

go figure

 

I was just rereading this post, Tallemeca may be correct it's been awhile but if memory serves me correct a NOS soloniod is basically a coil and it's not polarity sensitive, I double checked a .06 my meter is a dead short, that may be right in a non enegerized state.