I am open for suggestions. Going on the 3rd yellow always got me a .8xx RT.

I finally staged a little deep, but NOT shuting off the top yellow. BANG my RT improved to a repectable .6xx and finally a .570 Ofcourse the short roll out dampened my best effort ET but hey this is bracket racing, right. Any tips appreciated.

 

I have been able to get pretty consistent 600's by shallow staging and going on the second yellow. I dont 2 foot it, When I see the second yellow I go from brake to gas. Works for me...

Doug

 

I've never run at the drags before this year. My RTs have only been consistant in their inconsistantcy. While playing with the practice tree on the web I found that I was following the lights with my eyes. 1,2,punch.
I then tried staring only at the third light. I found that I could still see the lights come down in my perriferal vison but by watching only the third lite and hitting it when it came on I stopped redlighting and made consistant .51 to .55 RTs. I have no idea whether this will work in real life but I suspect that eye-brain-reaction thing works better if nothing is moving. I am going to try this Friday nite and will report. There is a lot to be said for practice, but there is also a better way. When I started doing this someone told me to only look at the third lite, but I couldn't do it. I thought I needed to see the light coming down, but all thats really doing is causing me to anticipate which is good for a red lite. I've been redliting a lot in my last two outings. So I am going to stare at the third lite and I will let you know.


The one foot two foot deal is irrelevant. What ever you can do consistantly is the best. The only point with regard to this that I would make is that if you (I am) are launching at above idle, I belive that this locks up the converter, takes all slack out of the driveline, and therefore should shorten reaction times. Unfortunately with F1s it doesn't work well as they tend to spin more.
noelvm

------------------
99.5 Red Ligntning, Syn Oil, Eldebrock 5512 muffler, BFG drag radials, Bugflector, G&H Lens covers,
70 Vette LS-6

 

Well, I've raced for the past 17 years. First tip, consistent staging. Pull into the first beam, then inch into the second. You only want to pull up until the second stage light comes on. Don't adjust your RT by pulling up farther, unless you deep stage. There are only two positions that let you know you are in the right spot. The second stage light just coming on, or the first just going off. Idle at the line, having to hold X RPM is one more thing to do at the line when you need to concentrate. How hard you hold the brake will also affect RT. Second tip, timming is everything. Each bulb represents half a second (.500). A .510 RT is considered the best target RT, it gives a little room for error if your *slightly* quick yet leaves very little room for the other guy too beat you. You said leaving on the last bulb got you a .800 RT, you need to leave .290 earlier for a .510, or half a bulb (.250) for a .550 RT. A .550 should be good enough for most trophy classes. If you look closely at the bulbs you will notice that the brightness changes, one dims then the other comes on. The more you can divide the tree, the easier it will be to find the sweet spot (alot of practice help too.) Somewhere around the middle of the second bulb works for me. I can offer a few more tips for bracket racing too, but remember the easiest way to win is by beating them with RT. Never dial a number you can't run. If you go to fast you can slow down, but if you go to slow, your done. Remember the object is to cross the line first w/o breaking out, or with the smallest breakout. I normaly dial in .2 slower than my best run (sandbagging). I know I have to slow down (unless something goes wrong like a bad launch) or I'll break out. The final trick comes at the finish line. Being able to judge the finnish is very important. If it looks like your opponent will beat you to the finnish line, stay in it, then brake before crossing the line. DON'T OVER DUE IT ON THE BRAKES The brakes on the L are great and with abs it helps avoid problems, but you can still find yourself in a bad situation if you over due it. With any luck he will break out, and you will not (or by less than him). The other case is you will finnish before him. Now you must consider a few things, are you breaking out? You should be if you did what I said and nothing went wrong with the run. So slow enough to just beat him. Unless you know you had a horrible reaction time. If you know you did, you can try just beating him (he would have to have a bad bulb too), or try forcing him to breakout by the last second brake manuver. BTW at the start line before turning on the second stage light look over at your opponent, remember the positioning of the vehicles. You want to finnish just a few feet ahead of this position. It all comes down to luck and pratice. You can't count on luck so you better practice. Sorry for the long post, but I'd love to see more L's in the final round.

------------------
99 Lightning black #2022, cd,tow package,bed rug,roll-n-lock
(13.73 @ 99.74 stock)
98 Cobra coupe laser red
best stock et 13.43 @ 103
one run w/ 3.55 gears 13.34 @ 102 no other mods
former Chevy fan still have a few
72 SS454 11.6 @ 116 (slicks open headers)
68 Camaro 12.2 @ 116 (street tires closed exhast)

 

Noelvm,

What is the web address of the "practice tree"??

 

holeshot.com

 

the Hole shot practice tree is at http://sl.rconcepts.com/services/holeshot/index.htm
Your webbrouser security setting (in Explorer) must be set to zero for it to work.
noelvm

 

Thanks, works like a charm.