I was wondering what all is required to switch from 1999 brake rotors to the 2000 rotors with the 14 mm studs.

Things needed so far that I know of:

-2000 brake rotors all around
-2000 lug nuts

???'s
-Are the holes in the wheels a different size between the two years?
-Are the studs for the rear mounted in the brake rotors?

 

What is the difference in the rotors and lugs on 2000's vs. 1999's.
Tt

 

SVT54SC

The rotors on the 99' has 12mm studs and the 2000 rotors have 14mm studs. Owners have found in the past that the 12mm studs can snap very easily when over-torqued.

 

On the rear the studs are in the axle flange. Boy, what a can of worms you will open up to retro fit the 14 mm setup to the 12 mm setup. Yes you can pull the axle shaft and refit them with 14 mm lugs but I would think that a little bit of care with the 12mm lugs will go a long way. I have seen too many dirty, cruded-up, rusted studs that promote failure. A little bit of prevention will go a long way, put a good grease on the lugs and wipe them down and many of the problems will go away. Still want to switch install new front rotors and press in new lugs in the axle flange.
PS. Pacecar18, How is you project going? Did you find a source.
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BABolt
SVT#290



[This message has been edited by BABolt (edited 05-18-2000).]

 

BABOLT

Are the lugs "really" pressed in or are they threaded in. If pressed I would assume you would just drill out the holes to accept 14mm OD lugs.

I wish my 2000 would hurry up and get here so I could snap some pictures of the things I bring up!

The project is going good and I am going to the dealership tomorrow to ask if they will give me an account for 10% over cost. If you think I can do better another way let me know.

 

I agree with BA, it is opening up a can of worms to retro-fit unless you have deep pockets, a good source for parts, and don't care about warranty issues.

Parts needed that I am aware of: 20 studs, 20 lugnuts, rotors all around, rear axles, rims, center caps.


Warranty/safety issues aside, rear studs are installed the same as front. They are pressed in. The hole/recesses on the rims were enlarged on '00 rims to accomodate the new lugnut. Can the holes be made larger in '99 rims? Maybe. Center caps were also changed to accomodate the nuts. If you were a machinist, maybe yhe holes in the axles and rotors could be enlarged to accomodate the new studs.

It seems like alot of time and hassle to me to do this mod over what could be handled by maintenance...

 

Hey BABolt,

Just a serious word of caution for you!! Do not, I repeat do not put grease on your studs! When a manufacture specs out a torque spec it is based on the size of the stud and the coefficient of friction between the nut and the bolt. The spec is given based on the actual conditions being used. In other words, if the Ford spec is 100 lbs-ft of torque on the lug nut, that is based on no lubricant on the stud and no locking compound on the stud. If you were to put a lubricant or a locking compound on it--you have now altered the coefficient of friction between the nut and the bolt, thus altering the required torque spec. So be careful!

 

When I took off my wheels about a month ago, they had all frozen to the hubs, front and rear. I had to use a big 'dead' hammer and a LOT of effort to remove all 4. Before I reinstalled them, I painted the contact surface and the studs with anti-sieze compound then torqued the lug nuts to 100 ft-lbs. Was I wrong in painting the studs? Would I have higher or lower actual 'pull' on the studs?

 

PeterB
Thank you for the advise and yes I am well aware of altering the coefficient of friction. That is why I wipe it down good. I look at it as becoming the lesser of two evils. I don't like the idea of snapping wheel studs due to rust. I think that the information that you provide is very good for the avarage owner, no matter what the vehicle. Thank you again.


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BABolt
SVT#290

 

BABolt,
Gotcha. I was thinking thats what you did, but I just wanted to make sure you knew.

DHFerguson,
I'm not sure about the paint issue, but I can tell you that you better make sure to clean the anti-seize compound off.

 

I agree with Peter B. Don't use grease on the studs...I've always used Anit-seize compound. The studs on my cars have never rusted and never had a problem with them loosening up...and I always use a torque wrench to tighten them down.

 

Thats just what I was gonna suggest....Anti-Seize.
I beleive it's a Permatex product, I've been useing it for years... It's one of those things that last for years and years (I mean the jar) Anti-Seize is really good for allot of modern day applications where you have a steel bolt going into a alluminum threaded hole. Works really well when you put a tiny bit on the spark plug threads that are going into aluminum heads.

Robert

 

Well now that all the worms are out! hehe

I guess I'll just be glad that I am getting a 2000. Makes me wonder what the 2001 will be like since things keep getting better on these trucks.