torque converter makes noise...
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torque converter makes noise...
Hi, My name is stu and I own a 99 Lightning. My L has some problems that Im not too sure about... I get this rattling noise after the truck is warmed up a lil. It will basically only happen at low speeds on decel, or when I am in drive and foot on the brake. I got under It today and It seems its coming from the torque converter/bellhousing area. I know its not the cats. My question is this a common thing? It is the stock converter. I will get a aftermarket one if this is the problem. Also It seems that the rear main seal is leaking... I had a shop do this a while back maybe 9 months ago and now its leaking again. Ive heard that its harder to do the rear main on these engines is this true? thanks
-Stu
-Stu
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Lake Zurich,IL
First thing I would check is the torque converter inspection cover to see if this is making contact with the flexplate. If this is not it then the flexplate could have a crack in it. I have personally seen this before on a Lightning truck and the noise it makes will come and go. A rear main seal install is not that difficult there are just two parts the seal and the oil slinger. Make sure both are replaced if there is an oil leak.
Zach@D.I.D Race Engineering
www.didraceengineering.com
Zach@D.I.D Race Engineering
www.didraceengineering.com
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,985
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From: Cincinnati, OH
It sounds like the "floating plate" in the converter has worn enough into the splined coverplate that you're you're getting some sloppy play in it. This is more or less normal for miles, basically the coverplate and the floating plate are worn out, but they will still function fine. The real concern is you have x amount of ferrous contamination in your tranny and/or filter now. In the filter it won't hurt anything but it goes from the converter, to the cooler to the rear lube in hole, where some of it is diverted to the rear extionsion housing bushing and the rear case bushing, with your leak in the rear seal coming back I'd not be surprised if the extension housing bushing is scored and that's the source of your leak. Have the shop replace the extension housing bushing along with the seal this time and see if that works better. It's about a $5 part and about an hour labor.
Hope this helps,
G
Hope this helps,
G
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Joined: May 2004
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Originally Posted by Factory_Tech
It sounds like the "floating plate" in the converter has worn enough into the splined coverplate that you're you're getting some sloppy play in it. This is more or less normal for miles, basically the coverplate and the floating plate are worn out, but they will still function fine. The real concern is you have x amount of ferrous contamination in your tranny and/or filter now. In the filter it won't hurt anything but it goes from the converter, to the cooler to the rear lube in hole, where some of it is diverted to the rear extionsion housing bushing and the rear case bushing, with your leak in the rear seal coming back I'd not be surprised if the extension housing bushing is scored and that's the source of your leak. Have the shop replace the extension housing bushing along with the seal this time and see if that works better. It's about a $5 part and about an hour labor.
Hope this helps,
G
Hope this helps,
G
Sorry for the Hijack.
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Originally Posted by Factory_Tech
It sounds like the "floating plate" in the converter has worn enough into the splined coverplate that you're you're getting some sloppy play in it. This is more or less normal for miles, basically the coverplate and the floating plate are worn out, but they will still function fine. The real concern is you have x amount of ferrous contamination in your tranny and/or filter now. In the filter it won't hurt anything but it goes from the converter, to the cooler to the rear lube in hole, where some of it is diverted to the rear extionsion housing bushing and the rear case bushing, with your leak in the rear seal coming back I'd not be surprised if the extension housing bushing is scored and that's the source of your leak. Have the shop replace the extension housing bushing along with the seal this time and see if that works better. It's about a $5 part and about an hour labor.
Hope this helps,
G
Hope this helps,
G
I have a few more questions If you dont mind me asking. Is the rear extension housing hard to replace, It seems easy cause its only an hour labor, but im not sure? I was thinking of replacing the converter with a factory tech street converter. And was also going to put a factory tech valve body in there. Would this be a bad idea? The truck is going to be used for street use, so I dont really need anything that will stall high. Would the total domination be better for me? thanks again for the help guys. Ive been contemplating just selling the truck because of so many things that have gone wrong with it. Its been in 2 wrecks, none my fault. and the motor went about 10k miles ago and I had a shop do it because it was under a dealer warranty(not factory) And It seems this shop that did the motor really messed things up. The tranny pan is all dented, It seems they dropped it or jacked up under it and dented it in. They didnt do the rear main seal right/diagnose the problem with the trans correctly, and now my warranty is up. I am mechanicaly inclined and have worked on many mustangs, so I feel I should be able to tackle this job. -Stu
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Originally Posted by Factory_Tech
It sounds like the "floating plate" in the converter has worn enough into the splined coverplate that you're you're getting some sloppy play in it. This is more or less normal for miles, basically the coverplate and the floating plate are worn out, but they will still function fine. The real concern is you have x amount of ferrous contamination in your tranny and/or filter now. In the filter it won't hurt anything but it goes from the converter, to the cooler to the rear lube in hole, where some of it is diverted to the rear extionsion housing bushing and the rear case bushing, with your leak in the rear seal coming back I'd not be surprised if the extension housing bushing is scored and that's the source of your leak. Have the shop replace the extension housing bushing along with the seal this time and see if that works better. It's about a $5 part and about an hour labor.
Hope this helps,
G
Hope this helps,
G
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,985
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati, OH
Not a problem. Scratch the extension housing, (but if you ever do decide to, it's incredibly easy, looks a lot worse than it is). Since you still likley have a ferrous contamination problem, this is one of the very rare times I'd advise someone to drop the pan and replace the filter and magnet. Shoot me an address and I'll get you a magnet from around here, I'm sure I have a pan with a clean one in it. You could also go with the deeper pan while you have it down, F81Z-7D194-BA from Ford, about $30, the filter at the dealer is Motorcraft 114 I think, but it's the same part and much cheaper at AutoZone as Deutch TF 325 for the deep pan and TF-350 if you decide to keep the stock pan, the pan gasket is reusable. The filter will come with a cork gasket that you should discard the factory one is better. When you do it, buy some paint screens from a paint store and put the old fluid in it long enough to drive to a Jiffy Lube or like place and have them do a tranny flush, plain old Motorcraft MERCOn is fine or if you live in the Confederacy where it's hot all year long, go with Mobil 1, either way you'll need 20 quarts to do the flush (of course, you can call Chickenears and order Factory Tech Mercon, too, I think it's $100 shipped for 20 quarts which is quite reasonable for a semi synth fluid)
Hope this helps,
G
Hope this helps,
G
