Boosting for 5 min at 5-7 lbs.. stop and pull over and its running like it has a HUGE cam. drop it off at ford and come back a week later to find this. head was pulled, i lost 24% compression on #3 bc the exaust valve was warpped and staying open. heads fine just needs a valve job and the rest of the motor is fine... neone know what caused it? ford is trying to blame the TR6 plugs but JL says seems to have run lean.... ive gotten most of my race parts off over the past month and all i had left on it were exaust,2.8 upper,and a predator on 80mm pully tune when this happened. never had a problem when i had the 4lber and 2.8 on. any ideas?
PS the ground strap and electrode were completely gone on #3 but all fine on all the others... injector maybe?

 

Same EXACT thing happened to me. I ended up with a built long block. It was a mail order chip that did it tio me. #7 cylinder.

 

I'm real sorry Black
Of course Ford will "TRY" and blame the TR6's, they always look to blame
"something" so they dont have to foot the bill. Very hard to say exactly what caused that, but you can bet your last breath of air it has NOTHING to do with running a cooler heat range Plug

Unfortunately as we all know Ford left NO ROOM for adding HP on a Lightning. The stock Rods are marginal to handle even the stock HP, hundreds of NON MODDED Stock Blocks threw Rods. The Fuel system is clearly not enough (even under stock power), something as simple as a Fuel Filter flowing slightly less than 100% can cost you a motor at any giving second, (amof mine clogged when it was brand new and melted 3 plugs)

So the bottom line is when something like this happens, and "IF" you've had no problems in the past with burning a plug, it can be blamed on something as simple as type of gas used, bad gas, not enough octane, or even a Fuel Filter thats only been in there a few thousand miles.

Along with those issues the L also has a terrible oiling system with causes #7
and #8 to damage rod bearing, and there also seems to be an issue with the Valve guides, MAKE SURE YOURS ARE CHANGED, each and everyone of my Exhaust Guides were like 4 times out of allowed clearance when my motor was taken apart at 12k. And odly enough it was a valve in the end that shot me too @&$%(@$%)(@$%@($%@($%@)$%)@$

So look to blame no one here, (unless you've been having issues), this is standard failures for a Lightning unfortunately

BTW
Make sure Ford doesnt leave 1/2 the crap you see laying inside your motor
"inside the motor" when they put it back together

 

I would be concerned about the parts laying in dirt in my bed. I think I would talk to the service manager about cleaning and properly storing my parts.

 

stock exhaust manifold and cats?

here's my thought, the valve warped due heat, running for 5 minute WOT, created a lot of heat and the exhaut couldn't escape.

 

it wasnt wot, i was towin a buddy home and had to stay in the throttle bc we had a heavy wind(damn u western OK). stock manifolds, nocats with 40series.

 

I bet the service writer said "it will be another hour before your truck is ready."

 

Surprised they didnt blame on the cyan colored supercharger mod.

Sucks dude. Build it bigger, better and stronger.

 

haha dont blame me, there when i got it and just too lazy to get it all off.the EATON on the case had it too. as they said they had to pull the head and i swear i heard a cash register open in the background. lol but its all good, the ford here is gr8 and have YET to screw me over or BS me and always dod a good job.i want to build a hellacious motor but all the cash is goin in the racecar(post a few months ago) which the motor is done and dynoed (560ci BBF in an 89 LX- 749 at the crank N/A and 918 with tha juice) just needs a tranny and i beleve i just spent it on my L hah! maybe once i im not a poor college student i can give jim or JL a call.-Kyle

 

First off- sorry about your loss but many have gone through the same thing. Ditto-on the **** poor parts storage, parts in the bed, bolts all over the top of the block you can bet I'd be bitchin about that.

 

well update 11:50 am... Heads back on and only needed one valve. still got lotsa stuff to put back in but should b done tonite or tomorrow morning, might come out cheaper than expected so thats nice.-Kyle

 

Ditto. I would have raised the roof in that place if I walked in and seen that. If i got the truck back and looked at the motor and saw scrapes and stuff all over my heads and intake and other parts, i wouldn't except it back.

Unfortunately not everyone works on vehicles like it's their own. I've helped my friends with their truck and treated it like I was doing mine.

 

That is why, there is a reason why our trucks are only rated to pull 5,000 lbs at stock boost and stock programing. ( a head wind applied to any load will make a big differece)

If your at a ford shop have them use the wds and do a relative injector flow test if you are concerned about the injector flow, if off you might wish to have a motor vac (injector cleaning done) and then do a retest and see if they are even. They should also do a fuel pressure testing as if your pumps are getting weak they can fail when towing due to the increased load/duration.


Just to point out the 5.4 engine actually last a long time however when you shift at 6,000 and run more boost then what they were designed for you will see added wear. Most stock 5.4's easily see 300,000 with no guide or rod problems. This is also not a dig but just a thought about putting things into perspective as i'm sure if testing was done one would see accelerated wear when shift points/such are increased a large degree above stock.


BTW - the parts in the bed of the truck are better in there then on the floor - one would need a big a$$ bench to hold all those parts. Atleast in the box they are protected some from dust entering when the shop doors are constantly opening and closing. I personally would have layed rags down and covered things up, however as long as they are cleaned and preped for installation then all is good.

 

I'd blame the predator.

 

that sux man.

i have an EGT gauge and I tow a lot, dropping back to a 2 lb pulley and a fat tow tune. this is the only moderately safe way to do it with increased boost. you would be amazed and scared at the exhaust gas temps under load and under boost even pulling moderate loads. easily 1450 degrees. keep that up with a leaner tune and more boost for any length of time and yeah you're going to melt/warp something.