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Running a too cold of a plug..?

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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:03 PM
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netoje's Avatar
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Running a too cold of a plug..?

So, back in the cool San Diego weather I was seeing 11-12lbs of boost, so I opted for the NGK TR6's, but now being in Jacksonville, FL I only see 10 max psi. This is only with a CAI, and 2lb upper.
My question is: Should I be running the TR6's? Should I go back to the stockers?
I understand that running "too cold of a plug" is exactly that the plug is running colder than what it should be, but what exactly does that mean. Does it affect performance? , Im stumped!!
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by netoje
So, back in the cool San Diego weather I was seeing 11-12lbs of boost, so I opted for the NGK TR6's, but now being in Jacksonville, FL I only see 10 max psi. This is only with a CAI, and 2lb upper.
My question is: Should I be running the TR6's? Should I go back to the stockers?
I understand that running "too cold of a plug" is exactly that the plug is running colder than what it should be, but what exactly does that mean. Does it affect performance? , Im stumped!!
What is the temp in jacksonville. Elevation, the temperature of the air, ect can affect how much boost you see. Cooler air, you will see more boost. Lots of heat and humidity, you will see less boost. You should stick with the tr6's.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:38 PM
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Lately its starting to cool down a lot, anywhere from high 50's to mid 80's. But in the heat of the summer it was upper 90's temps and very high humidity too.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:46 PM
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those plugs (TR6) will be fine. some folks say they're only a half step colder anyway.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2005 | 10:52 PM
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The heat range of a plug refers to its ability to transfer heat to the head. A "cold" plug transfers more of the heat to the head, and ultimately disipated through the cooling system. If a plug is too cold, it can allow combustion residue to build up on the plug. If it is too hot, it can actually cause detonation by igniting the charge like a glow plug.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 08:11 AM
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If you still on a stock tune and pushing 12 psi at best? You'll be fine with wither plug. The stock plug is better and will idle smoother than the TR6s.

Rich
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 07:42 PM
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Cool! Thanks guys!
 
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by desparado
The heat range of a plug refers to its ability to transfer
heat to the head. A "cold" plug transfers more of the heat to the head, and
ultimately disipated through the cooling system. If a plug is too cold, it can
allow combustion residue to build up on the plug. If it is too hot, it can
actually cause detonation by igniting the charge like a glow plug.
I always thought it was how far into the combustion chamber the tip
of the plug went. But I really don't know the definitive answer. Anyone else?
 

Last edited by SVT_KY; Nov 2, 2005 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2005 | 09:34 PM
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Ok, I just did some reading and found this on the NGK site. Looks like desperado was right.

It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat.

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

Conversely, a cold spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range is necessary when the engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or is run at high rpms for a significant period of time. The colder type removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the chance of pre-ignition/detonation and melting or damage to the firing end. (Engine temperature can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plugs heat range).


*added last paragraph*
 

Last edited by netoje; Nov 2, 2005 at 09:36 PM.
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by netoje
Ok, I just did some reading and found this on the NGK site. Looks like desperado was right.

It is important to remember that spark plugs do not create heat, they can only remove heat. The spark plug works as a heat exchanger by pulling unwanted thermal energy away from the combustion chamber, and transferring the heat to the engine's cooling system. The heat range is defined as a plug's ability to dissipate heat.

A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.

Conversely, a cold spark plug has a shorter insulator nose and absorbs more combustion chamber heat. This heat travels a shorter distance, and allows the plug to operate at a lower internal temperature. A colder heat range is necessary when the engine is modified for performance, subjected to heavy loads, or is run at high rpms for a significant period of time. The colder type removes heat more quickly, and will reduce the chance of pre-ignition/detonation and melting or damage to the firing end. (Engine temperature can affect the spark plug's operating temperature, but not the spark plugs heat range).


*added last paragraph*

I knew the length of something played a part ... That's what happens when you get old, Netoje ... Grin
 
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