Anyone Have a How To On Cam Degreeing?

I want to check my cam degree and verifi them.

God Bless,

Suavy

 

You will have to pull your valve covers off and bring motor to TDC. The timing marks on your chains should be 11:00 and about 1:00 respectfully. Then mark 1 link on either side of the timing marks with some red touch-up paint. Then the fun begins, you will then have to spin the motor over, by hand about 42 times. The marks should line up eventually, exactly where you first put them.

 

and if they dont??????????????

 

Then you will have to re-degree the cams. You can then count the # of teeth the cams are off. clockwise=advanced , counter clockwise=retarded

 

Sorry, but this phenomena has nothing to do with whether the cam is correctly degreed. The cam companies have some info on their web sites, but it is generic in nature and does not transfer easily to our OHC design. You must have a degree wheel, use a piston stop to properly locate TDC to install degree wheel, confirm degree wheel properly installed, and then use one of two procedures to determine if cam properly installed, either locate peak lift by checking crank degrees 0.050" each side of max lift and assuming that max lift is in the center (this is incorrect for assymetrically ground cams) and not recommended by Crower, but is by Comp or set solid lifter to zero lash and check crank degres at 0.050" lift from base circle on opening and closing events. You then compare those figures to the ones on timing card for 0.050 event timing AT THE VALVE, NOT AT THE CAM!

You will likely see some variation in total duration, but if you show valve opening 2 degrees late and closing 2 degrees early, it is correctly centered. iI it is opening four degres early and closing 2 degrees early, it is 3 degrees advanced. Clear as mud, right? You add up total degrees between measured events, divide by two, add that number of degrees to opening event will give you your LCA. Calculate it for desired and actual and compareto determine ho far off you are. The duration numbers you measure will be more accurate if you properly establish zero lash and have travel indicator perpendicular to the valve spring retainer. The method I described however will compensate for minor errors.

You will need to fashion a pice of steel to bolt to the head so the magnetic base will have something to stick to. Another note is that when you bolt degree wheel to the crank snout, you can not use that bolt to turn the motor, the degree wheel will move relative to the crank if you do. This is particularly important when finding TDC and centering the wheel, because you must turn the motor both directions to hit the piston stop and the bolt will loosen, best to turn it by the back of crank or flywheel.

Did I tell you this was a complicated task? See other cam timing thread.

 

Sauvy
Go to the Sean Hyland website and buy his mod motor book...they have a section in there for cam degreeing. Personally I think the make it sound simpler than it really is but its a start anyway.
Dale

 

Suavy what happen to the good ole days, you could swap a cam on a SB Chevy in a hour or two, stick you thumb in the spark plug hole, turn the motor by hand, listen for the psst, line up the crank tit at 12:00 and the cam tit at 6:00, and never even have to doubt if it's right. And the SOB would go 8500 RPM, schitt I've had some go 9500 RPM with a roller set up.

Dam technoligy, it's stuff like this that prevented me from doing the motor myself %@$*@@



EDIT
WOW we can say TIT, WOO HOO