and not getting wheel hop?

A friend of mine with a 2000 L has run that way for years with slicks, running 12.6-12.7's with no traction bars and no wheel hop.

I'm hearing on these boards that I have to have traction bars or something to stop wheel hop if I run drag radials.

I am the type of person that gets out of the throttle if anything goes wrong, such as wheel hop or anything else anyways, so I don't anticipate destroying anything for refusal to abort the run.

Another concern is when I tow a trailer. With traction bars, the tongue weight will sit my truck down on the traction bar snubbers.

I'd like to keep from putting traction bars on the truck. Can I get away with it?

 

Your friend is on borrowed time.

Guys run t/b w/ slicks because of the pinion angle and breaking driveshafts.

and yes the 2 days I had mine off last month I got a ton of wheel hop.

VINNIE

 

yeah im goona have to go with vinnie if the guy likes his drive shaft he should get some sort of traction bars.

Victor

 

i made a **** load of passes on nittos before i got traction bars and now im on street tires with traction bars.... ive run on slicks with out them... but i was always worried about my driveshaft

 

Would definitely NOT run slicks without traction bars. You may be okay for awhile. But why risk it? Spend the $350 on some 58" and ....LET'ER RIP

 

The tracks around here won't let you run SLicks without "traction bars."

Might as well throw a driveshaft loop on there while you're at it.

 

is it just me or do i see a 4 link?

 

Nope!

That 58" Traction bars.

Same ones I mentioned about a year ago to the srt truck guys and no one has taken the idea and ran with it yet.

Many Lightnings have those. Incl. Mine.

 

yea i lightened up my screen and noticed it was the sway bar that was looking like an upper link....

 

Yeah man, absolutely... Get a pinion snubber. Troyer Performance sells them. They're just a little more than Lakewoods. Pretty much the same effect as traction bars EXCEPT the snubber is fully adjustable by about 5". I concluded this was my best option b/c I do a lot of towing and a lot of racing. with my 2003 L, and a 2" rear drop, there is no danger of the snubber hitting while towing when it is adjusted all the way up. i've got some pics on my laptop i'll try to remember to post up later.

it seems to work great. my 60's have always been pretty slow thanks to my stock converter.. in the 1.90s range. I think if you don't have crazy power this will work well for you.

 

I've been running drag radials and slicks at the track for a couple years with no traction bars. Never had wheel hop or any other problems.