Question for those using Nitto 555R's?
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Joined: Jul 2004
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From: Elkton, MD
I've had Nitto's for about a year now, the best 60ft I had on f-1's was a 1.92(4# pulley, tune, and CAI). My best 60 on Nitto's is 1.84, heavily modded.
I've personally seen people get into the 1.7's on F-1's, so I do believe that driver skill plays a major role in the 60 ft times.
I did heat them real well one time and she hooked so hard off the line that all the fuel ran to the back of the tank(Less than a quarter tank
) and it shut off, boy did I look like a cheap goofball!!
I've also got around 8k miles on them and they're gonna be drag slicks soon!! WooHOO 18" drag radial slicks, have to advertise them on e-bay
Bryan
I've personally seen people get into the 1.7's on F-1's, so I do believe that driver skill plays a major role in the 60 ft times.
I did heat them real well one time and she hooked so hard off the line that all the fuel ran to the back of the tank(Less than a quarter tank
) and it shut off, boy did I look like a cheap goofball!! I've also got around 8k miles on them and they're gonna be drag slicks soon!! WooHOO 18" drag radial slicks, have to advertise them on e-bay
Bryan
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Miami, FL
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw
I have been very impressed with the Nittos. Something I have noticed is if I'm running on an asphalt road I can spin the Nittos just a tad off the line unless I feather it out of the hole but on a concrete road I can feel the azz end of the truck sorta squat as it lunges forward on concrete and I don't feel any spin.
Also when I kick down and it drops into 1st, on an asphalt road it gets a scratch but on concrete nothing, it just hooks and goes. When I had my F1's it would just blow them away regardless of the surface unless I really feathered the throttle. IMHO the Nittos are a better gripping tire than the F1's because they are designed to be. The rubber is extremely soft as compared to the F1's. As far as longevity goes you can probably expect about 1/2 the life that the F1 will give you.
Your at a higher HP/TQ level than me as I only run a 4lber and tune. I think that once you start getting up into your power range in our trucks, it may not matter what tire you go with because you are just gonna lite em up at WOT. That being said, IMHO you should give the 555R's a chance and I suggest that you go with the 305's instead of the 295's for a slightly larger foot print which should help as well. I didn't see any traction devices in your list of mods, are you running anything? I do have truk tracks which IMHO helped a lot. If you are not running anything I would definitely look into the slappers, slide a links, metcos or racho type bars.
Too bad you didn't have your 9 sec pony, the race would have gone a little differently.
Good luck in which ever way you decide to go.
Todd
Also when I kick down and it drops into 1st, on an asphalt road it gets a scratch but on concrete nothing, it just hooks and goes. When I had my F1's it would just blow them away regardless of the surface unless I really feathered the throttle. IMHO the Nittos are a better gripping tire than the F1's because they are designed to be. The rubber is extremely soft as compared to the F1's. As far as longevity goes you can probably expect about 1/2 the life that the F1 will give you.
Your at a higher HP/TQ level than me as I only run a 4lber and tune. I think that once you start getting up into your power range in our trucks, it may not matter what tire you go with because you are just gonna lite em up at WOT. That being said, IMHO you should give the 555R's a chance and I suggest that you go with the 305's instead of the 295's for a slightly larger foot print which should help as well. I didn't see any traction devices in your list of mods, are you running anything? I do have truk tracks which IMHO helped a lot. If you are not running anything I would definitely look into the slappers, slide a links, metcos or racho type bars.
Too bad you didn't have your 9 sec pony, the race would have gone a little differently.
Good luck in which ever way you decide to go.
Todd
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 598
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From: Corpus Christi, TX
It's very possible that you could get wheel hop. I would not run drag radials or slicks without some type of device to prevent axle wrap. You can get a set of Lakewood slappers for about $100.00 new I believe. Just do a search for lakewoods and you will find all kinds of info about them. Maybe some of the guys running them will chime in here. I bought my truk tracks used for $150.00 so check the classified sections on the boards.
Bottom line, there is too much risk of tearing up the rear end or breaking the drive shaft. So if you decide to go with a DR or slick make sure you have something to prevent axle wrap and a driveshaft loop would be a nice addition for safety as well.
Todd
Bottom line, there is too much risk of tearing up the rear end or breaking the drive shaft. So if you decide to go with a DR or slick make sure you have something to prevent axle wrap and a driveshaft loop would be a nice addition for safety as well.
Todd
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Miami, FL
A friend of mine runs 12.6's at 107 MPH with slicks, and has done so numerous times w/out wheel hop (no traction bars). Are the older trucks better at not experiencing wheel hop? He has a 2000 L.
Originally Posted by Txoutlaw
It's very possible that you could get wheel hop. I would not run drag radials or slicks without some type of device to prevent axle wrap. You can get a set of Lakewood slappers for about $100.00 new I believe. Just do a search for lakewoods and you will find all kinds of info about them. Maybe some of the guys running them will chime in here. I bought my truk tracks used for $150.00 so check the classified sections on the boards.
Bottom line, there is too much risk of tearing up the rear end or breaking the drive shaft. So if you decide to go with a DR or slick make sure you have something to prevent axle wrap and a driveshaft loop would be a nice addition for safety as well.
Todd
Bottom line, there is too much risk of tearing up the rear end or breaking the drive shaft. So if you decide to go with a DR or slick make sure you have something to prevent axle wrap and a driveshaft loop would be a nice addition for safety as well.
Todd
Technical Article Contributor
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 598
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi, TX
I really don't know if the old trucks are better at not experiencing wheel hop or not. I have an 03 and I know I have a little more beef in the leafs so maybe not having the extra beef in the leaf is the key. That's a good question. Maybe someone will chime in here and answer it.
Are you sure Your friend has nothing to prevent axle wrap? If so he is very lucky that he hasn't damaged something. IMHO it's just a matter of time before he breaks a driveshaft or tears up the rear end. But I could be wrong.
My advice to you is to get something to prevent axle wrap before running DR's or slicks so you can protect your drive shaft, rear end and most of all yourself. You may want to do a search for "Axle Wrap", you should be able to find some really good info. Hope this helps.
Todd
Are you sure Your friend has nothing to prevent axle wrap? If so he is very lucky that he hasn't damaged something. IMHO it's just a matter of time before he breaks a driveshaft or tears up the rear end. But I could be wrong.
My advice to you is to get something to prevent axle wrap before running DR's or slicks so you can protect your drive shaft, rear end and most of all yourself. You may want to do a search for "Axle Wrap", you should be able to find some really good info. Hope this helps.
Todd