Lightning

Coolant Flow Path for L Cooling System?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 12:13 AM
  #1  
ShockTherapy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Coolant Flow Path for L Cooling System?

Who can tell me the path the coolant flows in the L's cooling system? I am particularly interetsted in the heater hose flow. The reason I ask is I'm having to do some custom cooling system plumbing on my 32V project.

I have the factory L hard line that connects in the intake galley area and runs the length of the engine and then up to the heater hose. The other line that connected to the lower intake is the one I am trying to figure out where to pipe into my new setup.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 12:36 AM
  #2  
Casey02L's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Ok; the water flow for the heater core goes out the back top of the passenger head(actually intake manifold) and into the heater core by the tube to the outside of the truck. Threw the heater core and into the tube that goes to the back of the water pump.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 12:39 AM
  #3  
Casey02L's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Just a suggestion. Fron the research I did with a LOT of reading and thinking it would be best if you can figure out a way to run the water out of both heads instead of just one and into the heater core. This will basically balance the coolant flow, balance the cylinder temps across the board. Basically the "cooling mod" done by Cobra's and other mod motors. I did it on mine by taping the manifold and just T'ing in into the hose going into the heater core.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 01:31 AM
  #4  
SILVERLIGHTNING's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 962
Likes: 0
From: SouthJerseyUSA
That's a very good suggestion, Casey.

 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:02 AM
  #5  
brain bypass's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: houston, tx
i did the same when i had my intake off. basically i copied what casey02L did. i tried at first to use the fitting the cobra guys are using, but there is not enough clearance between the head and firewall. i'll post some pics.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:39 AM
  #6  
Casey02L's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: Florida
Here is basically what I did with mine; I changed the fitting at the top before it went in:



 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:41 AM
  #7  
Casey02L's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: Florida




It's working great with 5xx miles on it now. I put the temp sender back there; not sure if I am getting a lot of residual heat when I stop, or if it just gets hot quickly back there. Either could be true.
 
Reply

Trending Topics

Old Jul 6, 2005 | 09:55 AM
  #8  
brain bypass's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: houston, tx
i only did the driver's side, and it will be tee'd into the hose coming off of the passenger side tube.

here is mine:


 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 10:00 AM
  #9  
brain bypass's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: houston, tx
why don't you do what screwonbudnik20 did:


https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...=201053&page=5

and just tee those together and run that to the heater core.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:08 AM
  #10  
ShockTherapy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by brain bypass
why don't you do what screwonbudnik20 did:


https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...=201053&page=5

and just tee those together and run that to the heater core.
I think I'll do exactly that, but since it won't really be seen, I'll just drill / tap NPT holes and put a hose barb fitting in each one with a "T" in the middle, and run that into the input of my heater core.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #11  
brain bypass's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: houston, tx
i am pretty sure there is some sort of metering device in the factory hose that goes from the manifold to the heater. just reuse that hose to go from the tee to the core and you should be fine.

and fyi, it is a pain to tap a hole that big. the bit and tap cost me $50, and i had to use my 18" breaker bar to turn the tap! it still took a lot of effort with that.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:39 AM
  #12  
ShockTherapy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by brain bypass
i am pretty sure there is some sort of metering device in the factory hose that goes from the manifold to the heater. just reuse that hose to go from the tee to the core and you should be fine.

and fyi, it is a pain to tap a hole that big. the bit and tap cost me $50, and i had to use my 18" breaker bar to turn the tap! it still took a lot of effort with that.
Dayum...did you use a 1/2" or 5/8" tap?
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:42 AM
  #13  
ShockTherapy's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 704
Likes: 0
From: Arkansas
Originally Posted by brain bypass
i am pretty sure there is some sort of metering device in the factory hose that goes from the manifold to the heater. just reuse that hose to go from the tee to the core and you should be fine...
Yeah, I had planned on using the factory L hose to feed my T into. Thanks for the tip.
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 11:46 AM
  #14  
brain bypass's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 990
Likes: 0
From: houston, tx
Originally Posted by ShockTherapy
Dayum...did you use a 1/2" or 5/8" tap?
1/2" pipe thread tap.

the fitting i used was 1/2" pipe thread to 5/8" hose barb.

yeah, it took actually about $75 worth of tools to install a $2 part. the bit was $30, tap $20, 1/2" chuck for my drill so i could use the big *** bit, $25. i didn't mind that much, i like buying tools
 
Reply
Old Jul 6, 2005 | 02:49 PM
  #15  
Casey02L's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,412
Likes: 0
From: Florida
I had a drill bit, but had to buy a tap about $20 for it. But it was fairly easy to turn. On mine I did away with the "restrictor" I decided with both sides feeding it now it would be better unrestricted.

BTW; if you run out of room you can remove the short "extensions" that are about 6" long. I actually was hurting for room so I ended up just undoing the hose at the firewall and sticking the hose onto the nipple there and clamping it. There is one "barb" and it hasn't leaked yet.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:19 PM.