I dropped my truck quite a bit.... 4" up front 6" in the rear. I have the bed off and ready to install my C-Notches. I was eyeing out the install, and noticed that once I install my C-Notches, I still will not get all of the clearence that I want. Since the rear swaybar mounts on the outside of the framerail, it will be the next thing to hit the frame. The only solution I found would be to mount the swaybar on the inside of the framerail. Does anyone make a swaybar which mounts on the inside of the framerail? Does anyone know where I could get a custom swaybar produced? Or does anyone have any other solutions for me? Help me im stuck! Any help would be very appreciated! Thanks.

-Mike

 

4-Link, should be about the same price ($500) as a custom swaybar.

 

Hmmmmmmmmm.... bags? lol.... Does anyone make a bolt-in 4-Link setup?

 

you could get the hellwig bar, and shorten it on each side. cut out like 2" in each side section and then weld it back togther. then make some brackets for the endlinks to mount to. the only think i don't know is if the cutting and welding on the bar would reduce the torsional stiffness of the bar.

shorten the bar in the circled areas:


make a bracket like this:
black is the frame
red its the bracket
yellow is the endlink

 

Cutting a welding a sway bar is a bad idea. It will completely change the dynamics of the bar. Shortening it will make it much stiffer (maximum over steer) and welding it will create a "hard spot on the bar making it even stiffer. If you just want the clearance and don't care about handling go for it. My guess is over time the welds will fail.

 

what drop did you go with. I am about to tackle the same project in the next couple of weeks.

 

Western Chassis 4/6. Drop a-arms and coils up front, flip kit in the rear. Only one problem.... the sway bar is going to hit the frame!

 

The Hellwig should be able to be rotated forward enough to clear the frame rails, even though it is underneath them and mounted to them.

The other alternative is to install a racing stabilizer, which is a straight solid bar with links going down to the axle.

 

Remove the sway bar completely.
I don't think you will be needing it.

 

Please explain.

 

I think he was refering to the lowness of the 4/6. That sounds absurdly low for proper suspension travel.

 

With the right setup I will have more than enough suspension travel, which is why I'm looking to get rid of my swaybar problem. I think I may have the problem solved. My truck is not ABSURDLY low, its a rated 4/6 kit, but I'd say it dropped about a true 3/5 or so. Many people with shackles/hangers are close to how low my truck is in the back. Up front I have springs/a-arms. It isn't much lower than a truck with 3" coils.

-Mike

 

I think I might have found a solution to my problem.....

http://www.hellwigproducts.com/antis...ered_ford.html

Hellwig makes swaybars for lowered trucks, and it says its for a 6" flip kit. I emailed them asking how they get around the swaybar bottoming out. We shall see if they tell me what I want to hear.

 

This is what I was refering to. I am not sure you will be able to turn as well with this low of a drop. previous posts have talked about the problems with bump steer at this much of a front drop. Have the parts been figured out yet to solve the problem? If they have I can see this much of a drop as working.
6" is a lot of rear drop to me as well, Which shocks will be used? .
If the drop is for lowering the truck for better handling and these problems are taken care of you will need a rear anti sway bar. If the goal is to lower the truck for the great look. Then it may not be needed.