Guy has a zex wet kit he says universal 75 shot for 300 and the purge kit and gauge is it worth it? And also will it work on my stock 2000 WITHOUT a tune and me have nothing to worry about? Truck has 6000 miles on it, and can I do it for awhile without that plate everyone gets, sorry for all the questions I just have no clue and dont want to kill myself.

 

you will need a tune to spray... i wouldnt run anything more then a 125 on a stock block. and for the worth, how much is it.. I just sold my 75 dry shot NOS with a purge, brand new for 350..

 

$300.00 So for sure a NO of using without a tune?

 

These days new it's @ 500.00 (w/no purge). So if your getting EVERYTHING (all the lines, and the Fuel Rail Ftg) it's a good deal.

Ditto on "YOU NEED A TUNE" (although some do run n20 on 100% stock L's)
I WOULDN'T.

Most Mfg's tell you to NOT use a chip, (but thats because they know if you have a chip it's for performance and prob too aggressinve for n20) .Thats why you will now need a minimum of 2 tunes.

If not for anything else, "you need to get the rev limiter out of the way"

Unfortunately I just got rid of a couple of Chips, or I would hooked you up

 

IF you run this without a tune you will put a hole in your block!

 

Ok so pretty much just when I get my tune from troyer tell him I will be running a 75 shot? If I dont use the nitrous how will it affect the driving of the truck since it will be tuned to run witha 75 shot?

 

Brad

If your saying your going to have 1 tune, (re-flashing the puter), and it's going to be your Nitrous Tune, and 24/7 NON N20 tune, --> it's totally ok. I drive on my n20 tune all winter long, and use it for long WOT parkway, and sometimes just for schitts and giggles.

Of course you WILL NOT have optimal performance, but you will have an extremely safe street tune, (shorter shift points, less timing, fatter af).

The only thing is usually a n20 tune will have a little diff type of shifting,
it shouldn't be a issue, but usually one will feel a more aggresive shift on their n20 program, compared to their non n20.

As for safety, no probs there, but performance might be. My current n20 program has low timing and is not very aggressive without n20, however
my older programs had a min of 16 degrees on the n20 tune, and that turned out to be quite good for both. 12.7's - 12.8's all day on a filter chip n pulley
"off spray", and one high 11, and many many 12.0's - 12.3's on a 75 Shot.

You may want to lock the timing at 16 Degrees and start there ? ? ?

 

do it man......check out the classifieds on nloc.net dirtchicken has a psp plate for sale cheap.

 

Zex said that because its computer controlled I should be fine with a 75 shot on my stock lightning but if I add mods I should get a tune, so now im really confused.

 

Do yourself a favor and get it on a dyno and tune if you plan on spraying it. Zex can say all they want, but are they gonna pay for your motor in the long run? Pull some timing, add some fuel, throw in a set of colder plugs, FPSS, and keep an eye on any fuel press. drops on the initial hit. I'd never spray anything over a 50hp shot on a forced induction application without a tune, but that's just me...

 

I dont know of a dyno anywhere around here in Lusby MD but will a tune from troyer be good enough?

 

They should be able to ballpark it for you. Anytime I spray for the first time on any vehicle I build, I do it on a dyno so I can check my a/f with a wideband...just preventative measures is all. If I start to see it going lean, there is ample time to back out of the pull and investigate what's going on. If you run lean on the street spraying for the first time, you won't be able to tell if everything is functioning as it should. Again, this is just what I do and what I recommend to others...doesn't mean that you absolutely have to follow it.

I know JLP is probably about 3 hours from you...he obviously has a lot of experience with nitrous and could really get your tune down perfect. Good luck with whatever you decide!