I have a 04 stock L, and would like to run in the mid 12'S. I saw a package at rpmoutlet that can increase rwhp 131+ for $990.00. Would be happy just to get in the high 12's but mid to low 12's would be great. What do you guys think. Thx Kat

https://www.f150online.com/galleries....cfm?gnum=5992

 

purchase at your own risk. id check out the supporting vendors for parts. just my $0.02 (fyi if it sounds to good to be true, it prob is.) i just took a gander at the "deal" and if u get the 8# pulley i still do not see 131rwhp and thats pushing it with the 8 if its your daily driver.

 

First off, i've heard NOTHING but BAD THINGS about those people.

Otherwise, all of the supporting vendors here are great. JDM, JLP, PSP, LFP,REM are all people i've dealt with with success.

An 04 into the 12's.

Depends on how you wanna do it.

I did mine the bolt on way little by little on my 2000. If i had to do it over again RIGHT NOW with what's available, I'd go with a Magnum Blower, Tune, Plugs and a set of Slicks.

That alone would put you in the LOW 12's, High 11's.
Price Varies on what you actually go with but figure 4-5 grand.

Or you can go with basic bolt on way. Chip/Tuner, 4lb or 6lb lower on street tires would put you in the high to mid 12's at about $600 bucks.

Of course it all depends on where you are racing and weather. I spent thousands on all these little bolt on's when every little bit counted. Now with all the new technology and aftermarket parts and blowers, you can go alot fast for alot less. Remember though, stock parts can and will break when adding aftermarket components.

I recommend dyno tuning for optimum and safest results. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the feed back. I thought that 131+ sounded high but like I said I'm new to the truck. I want in the 12's but I want it done right. I'm going to check JDM out. Oh, also are you guys running drag radials or slicks, if so which brand and size. Thanks Kat

 

Also I heard that changing the throttle body and the exhaust would not produce much if any gain in horespower. Is this true?And since I just sold my 02 WS6 it will be my daily driver for atleast a few months.

 

throttle body does make some difference because it's blown. I think when i did the efan, pump and throttle body i gained like 2 tenths. Again, all this small stuff adds up , that's why I said I would do it differently this time.

Not that these are great mods but expensive.

I did a catback for sound a few years ago, then did headers and highflows.

Noticably differences at the dyno, but not huge gains for the money at the track.

I personally use JDM for my tuning. You won't be disappointed.

my 2000 with 4lb lower and your basic bolts ons put down 437hp, 532ftlbs on a 11.8 max a/f

I've run as fast as 12.71 and my best mph is 107.9.

I'd run alot fast if my 60's could get lower than 1.85......still trying.

 

tallimeca you said something about slicks in the other post, are you running slicks? If so what brand and size? When I first bought my truck and started running it at the track alittle over a year ago my bf's truck was 2 tenths faster, but now I guess since it has broken in, it will run just as good as his. The best 60ft I have gotten is a 1.995 and I ran a 8.658 at 81.9mph in the 1/8th and so far that has been my best time.

 

the more mods you have, the less traction. All trucks are different. MY EXPERIENCE has been this.

F1's are a chore to launch with any kind of mods. I got intot he high 12's on a 2lb lower with f1's. But with the 4 and other mods, it was a 50/50 shot every pass comming out of the hole and i got loose hitting 2nd a couple times and had a real dangerous situation at the 1000ft mark another time. From then on I never ran the F1's again. I run Nitto Drag Radials daily on my truck on the stock rims and they are AWESOME on the street, yet I've never yeilded any great success with them at the track. Other's have however but i just went right to a set of eagle rims with 28" hoosier quick time pro DOT slicks . I went with the DOT only because i used to go on street nights alot and they required DOT tires. My next set will be full slicks. My 60's are usually in the low 1.9's high 1.8's..........which honestly aren't great but i'm always adding new mods and launching is different everytime. The truck should be in the low 1.8's high 1.7's when i ever get the hang of it.

 

One more question tallimeca and I will let you be. you found a nitto that fits 295/40 18 or did you have to go with a smaller rim. I used the BFG's on my 02 WS6 and really liked them, the only thing is that they didn't last very long. I have yet to find a dragradial to fit (on the stock rim)the truck unless I'm not looking in the right place, but thought if I got dragradials for it, I would try MickeyThomson, have heard alot of good things about that brand. Thanks so much for all the info.Good luck with lowering your 60ft.
Kat

 

as far as nitto dr's, if i'm understanding what you're saying you can't find the right size for the stock wheels? They make the DR's in 305/45/18, which fits the stock rim. They also make regular 555s in the 295/45/18 size. Not trying to argue with you here tallimeca but I don't believe that an otherwise stock truck with a MP blower on stock pullies will put out hte kind of power for low low 12s/high 11s.... I don't see an L pushing more than 410ish rwhp with nothing but an MP blower/tune....

edit: Unless you plan on spinning an MP at 20+ psi it won't outperform a ported eaton. (Steigemier (sp?)). They run about 500 for a port job. If it were my truck I would do a ported blower, 4 or 6 lb lower, efan, good dyno tune, traction bars, 26" slicks if you want, and a filter kit (my personal favorite is JLP, but any cone filter will do). That should get you mid to high 12s and around 400/500 hp/tq at the wheels.

 

I agree 100 percent. I should have said a MP blower with associated pullies.

I would disagree with this 100 percent based on the physical evidence I saw when Jim was dynoing a couple of trucks while I was there last year.

The HP drop off in the Higher RPM range between a ported eaton and a magnum was significant, not to mention the different torque curves.

We looked at a couple of ported eaton dyno sheets.........mine included.......compared to a couple of magnum pulls with similar boost levels.........and the magnum out performed it every time. I'm still running my ported eaton but like I said, if I was a newbe, I would skit most of the bolt ons that added up real quick and go right to an aftermarket blower. On a stock block, the Magnum seems to be the choice I guess.

 

I ran a 12.72 with a 4lb lower, CAI and chip. Good air helps but the tune is key. Find a tuner you can work with and be patient. Work on you 60' times, 1/10 in the 60 equals 2/10's in the 1/4.

 

yea tallimeca i kind of knew that would be stirring the pot a bit. I just read that off of a few other posts that it would take that much psi for the magnum to really win out.... hope we answered some of your questions though 04sonic blue

 

You also have ran the fastest ET for a ported blower..

 

Thanks for all the help and info guys. Kat