installed my EGT gauge last week:



did the blue sharpie mod, it looks pretty close to stock. close enough i'll probably keep it rather than change it out for blue bulb.

wow these trucks run hot!! holy crap, it is kind of scary, but some searches tell me that's pretty much in line with what others have seen. 750 or so degrees at idle. any kind of throttle and light load puts her up around 1100 - 1200. it is easy to give it some gas and climb over 1300. tonight at the track, 54 degrees, 58% humidity @ 1900' elevation I was seeing about 1380 degrees on WOT . seemed to stay right there at 10 lbs boost. this is on stock plugs, stock tune, cold air intake, FTVB, cat back. 8.497 1/8th mile at 82.7 MPH on 2.06 60' F1s. my best run to date. next week the 4lber and chip and TR6s go in, i can't wait!!!!

i will note that it right now playing around on the street I can get the temps up over 1400 pretty easy. i've seen it top out around 1450. i was surprised to see temps a little lower at the track tonight.

the egt gauge install didn't go as smoothly as expected. the probe bottomed out on stock manifold. i had to cut a metal spacer and put on probe where it goes onto the NPT connector to keep it from bottoming out. this was the autometer 5744 kit. i was surprised at how quickly the gauge responds. it is not "instant" but pretty quick.

got some good tips on the gauge install from fellas, thanks. it was real tough to get my drill in there but finally did. the grease on the bit helped catch some shavings. i have 2 gallon shop vac that I put a piece of duct tape over the end and then punched a flexible drinking straw through the end and sucked the shavings out of the manifold. worked like a champ!

i thought i'd make it neat and clean in the fuse box where i've got my wires tapped into the fuses. so i got some of those mini fuse taps that go in to the fuse block with the fuse. well, it is hard as hell to push them in when on the fuse, so it actually spreads the female connector on the fuse block out too wide. i'm not sure if i take the taps out, that the fuses will make good connection now. hard to say, but i don't recommend the fuse taps. found them at NAPA, no other places knew what they were. plus the taps stuck out a little too far to put the fuse box cover on very easily.

that's my .02 for now...

 

Cool and thanks for the post!

When I had cats I saw right at 1500 every run. Now I'm seeing in the 1400-1450 range. (very few runs though)

Rich

 

I just brought one too but do not know how to install it
can someone post step by step to do this?

thanks

 

this thread has some good info: https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hreadid=195124

i don't recall seeing info on the wiring but it's very simple. there are 6 wires on the gauge, two are obviously and clearly marked for the -/+ probe hookups (yello wire). Other 4 are two positives and two negatives. that's one set for the power for the guage itself and one set for the illumination. I connected the two grounds to each other close to the gauge. then below the fuse box on the metal chassis for the dash there are a couple bolts (8mm I think) that you can unscrew and put that ground under. then tap into the fuse box for a power feed that is on with the ignition (i chose one in the right bank, a few fuses down from the top. then there's a fuse specifically for illumination in the box-- tap into that. strip the wires, put into left hole (cold side), put fuse in over top of fuse. you will need some wire to get the illumination positive down to the fuse box--probably enough left over from cutting the excess off the other wire.

coming through your firewall is super easy, on drivers side there is a round plug of approx 2". drill a hole in it a little smaller than what you need to put through it. there is a cable already coming through that plug. spit on the wire and slide it through your new hole. wire tie everything out of the way underneath.

 

this is one of the reason why I log on to this web-site daily.......
lots of great helps

Thanks

 

Just as a follow-up here, i got some more numbers/data from last weekend. Pulling an approx 3,500 trailer at speeds of 70-75 mph on interstate through some fairly steep mountains. i see sustained boost of 4- 6 lbs at a temp of 1400-1420 degrees. this is with overdrive ON. at those speeds she doesn't "hunt" for a lower gear so I just leave it on. At one point I turned OD off, and she switched into 3rd and the temps rose to about 1460 so I didn't try that again. outside tems werea bout 70 degrees, elevations of ~ 1000 - 2200 ft. this load on level ground at 55 mph seemed to bring the temps up by about 75 degrees vs nothing in tow, similar ambient conditions.

i had always wondered if it was "better" when under load to have low RPM and high boost or high rpm and no boost. my results are saying low rpm, moderate boost runs cooler EGTs.

anxious [scared, maybe] to see a comparison next time out with 2lb pulley & custom towing tune.

 

Engine load is what your really after. The lower the load the lower the pressures on all the moving parts. Don't just look at EGTs.. Usually it's better to up the RPMs to achieve that.

Rich