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Raise the tranny at the crossmember?

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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 11:20 PM
  #1  
Tim Skelton's Avatar
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From: The People's Republic of Los Angeles
Raise the tranny at the crossmember?

As usual, I can't get parts to fit. I am trying to install the X-Factor. It would not clear the 4.2" tall B&M. I have ordered the 3.6" tall Moroso pan, but am skeptical that the .6" will be enough.

I can make a spacer plate to go between the X-Factor and the crossmember, but there is only maybe 1/2" to play with. And then I have to worry about the shear strength of those bolts (I cannot imagine that they were engineered to withstand any lateral forces).

So I'm wondering if I could just raise the tranny up maybe 1/2" to 3/4" at the crossmember. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Thanks
 
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 11:32 PM
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LightninMike's Avatar
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From: Warwick R.I.
you would have to check the wiring and the vent on top to make sure you dont crush them other than that you should be ok with 1/2 inch but i wouldnt go higher
 
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 11:40 PM
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how would that effect the pinion angle of the driveshaft going into the rearend? It seems it would be more Positive.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2005 | 11:43 PM
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1/2" at the mount should not be enough to worry over, but I would recommend verifying the output shaft / pinion relationship. Ideally the output shaft and the pinion should be at the same angle so the driveshaft splits that angle at each U-joint. Same philosophy goes for side-to-side displacement. This rule of thumb is assuming non-CV joint shaft (which we have).

_
. \
.. \_

(Extreme, but that's all that ASCII allows)

In the above "image" the two horizontals represent the trans output shaft and the pinion shaft - these two should be at the same angle with repect to each other, but not necessarily parallel with the ground. Therefore the angle between the pinion or output and the driveshaft should be the same on each end.

I don't know how close this really is on the factory set-up, but that's the ideal model for chassis fab.

Herb

EDIT: wow - the layout in the message editor doesn't really match the real post - ignore the dots - they are required for "placeholders"
 

Last edited by Herb101; Apr 17, 2005 at 11:50 PM.
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 10:13 AM
  #5  
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Tim, changing the engine and tranny angle to make a stiffening brace fit? It's just basicly flawed in the premiss. Change the brace to fit. Afterall it's the realitively "un-engineered" newbie on the scene.

Rich
 

Last edited by wydopnthrtl; Apr 18, 2005 at 10:20 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 11:16 AM
  #6  
Tim Skelton's Avatar
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Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
. . . Change the brace to fit. . . .
Upon further reflection, I agree.

The X-Factor has slots for the crossmember, which I'm sure were put there rather than holes for ease of installation. But it got me thinking . . . where are the twisting forces going?



It appears to me that the twisting forces are passing from corner to corner, not from corner to center. The right rear bar pushes (or pulls) against the front left bar (the front piece is actually a welded assembly). So it looks like the crossmember mounting piece is not subjected to much in the way of force because the opposite bar is always there to push back. In other words, it looks to me like the crossmember mounting nuts could be left loose and the braces would still work.

I can get a piece of 3/4" aluminum (actually in any thickness that I need) for a spacer from onlinemetals.com for about $10. That looks like the way to go.

Thanks to all for the helpful input!
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 02:09 PM
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That is a very nifty looking piece!

How much do those retail for?

 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Originally posted by PBGas
That is a very nifty looking piece!

How much do those retail for?

I believe the X-brace is around 500 bucks shipped.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2005 | 08:15 PM
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chief40al's Avatar
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I bought mine from Kenny Brown directly.
If you are a SVTOA Member ask for a discount.
I got about $75. off.
 
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