and add a free'r flowing exhaust to reduce backpressure!

 

...now I'm confused...am I safe???...or should I change to a 4#er ?

 

stick with the 4lb pulley if you want peace of mind, the truck may last 20 miles or 20k miles with the 6lb, If you are going to run the 6lb pulley I would at least have a backup plan (money). I did everything correct with my set-up, headers, custom tune, etc. and it still blew. To tell you the truth I would much rather have been driving my truck for the past year with a 4 lb pulley than saving for a $10K motor.
are the few extra hp from the 6lb pulley worth it to you?
sorry hate to confuse you like this, I just had a bad experience.

 

I currently have and always had a 6# pully on my d/d truck.I personally havent had any problems(knock on wood)with the set up im currently running.What i could say is that i wouldnt run that kind of boost without a full length exhaust....it really needs to breath.But i mean,ive been running a 6#r for almost 3 years now and 55,000 miles and 18lbs of boost later and still rund strong if not stronger.Granted having a ported blower may change a couple of things from my set up bur either way the only way to prevent any problems other then buying a short block is the full length exhaust...and to top it off youll pick up low end torque.So the few lbs of boost youll loose youll see in torque so its a no loose situation.

mike
03 true blue(JDM Enhanced)11.60@115 stock long block&blower
chip,filter,full length exhaust,6#,throttle bodyconverter,phenolic spacer,e-fan,cobra r pump,heat x-changer,traction bars,slicks/drag radials

 

well lets look at what causes this engine damage.

1. If the head gasket is blown out, you had too much compression, meaning too much boost!

But that doesn't seem to be the problem. The problem is detonation. This extreme force breaks the connecting rod and the spinning crank send the rod through the block.

Now what causes detonation? Answer, Extreme temperatures in the combustion chamber.

How can you prevent extreme temps in the combustion chamber? Well there are many ways to reduce it.

1. Use a cooler plug, such as a NGK, BR-7. I am currently using tr-6 plugs with my truck but the new BR-7 will be installed before it comes out of storage.

2. Have the Blower PORTED! I don't care who does it, but APTEN did mine. While my truck was being Dyno Tuned, Sal from PSP amde a comment that may discharge temps were cooler than stock Lightnings. The extra "hole" that Apten puts on the bottom makes more use of the intercooler. Instead of focusing all the hot air on one part, it now spreads it over the entire I/C resulting in much cooler air temps.

3. Get a Full Exhaust. Get that hot exhaust air OUT of the combustion chamber. Headers, Hi-Flow cats, etc... I think everyone knows the 4 catayltic convertors (2 pre-cats, 2 cats) is the bottleneck of our exhaust. Get it out of there!

4. Use HIGH octane fuel. This will prevent detonation. actually it will prevent pre-mature ignition of the air/fuel mixture in the combustion chamber. Lower octane fuel ignites at lower temps. (think diesel) and this could occur before the Piston reaches TDC.

5. USE NITROUS. I'm not talking a 100 shot or even a 50 shot, I'm talking a very small amount to cool the air a little more.

6. Get an aftermarket heat exchanger and install 2 cooling fans. The cooler you can get the i/c, the cooler your air temps will be.


there's more but I'm tired of typing.

 

one last thing:

Ever wonder why a majority of the broken rods are near the back of the engine? Think about it for 2 seconds,

1. ALL the exhaust passes past that last cylinder on each side. (stock manifold) right?
2. The engine Coolant passes by the first cylinders and absorbs heat before it reaches that last cylinder

What do you think the temperature of that last cylinder is as compared to the other ones?

That heat causes detonation.


Now i'm tired of typing

 

my second rod back on the drivers side went on my truck, I had full exhaust, afco heat exchanger, magnum blower, dyno tune. The only reasons I can think of for my vented motor are bad gas (but I filled at a station I always go to) or a bad tune? neither of which were really in my control.
It was also a mild day out, and I wasnt accelerating at an abnormal rate, less than 3/4 throttle.

 

#6 lower and my engine is fine...its the trans that just took a poop

 

Ok so it's a toss up!
Following l-menace's list of to-do's
1. to much boost? I don't know (I see13psi now), how much is to much?
2. I'm running denso IT-22's so i should be good there.
3. Apten ported blower......done
4. Dynatech headers mids/cats to true duals...free enough?
5. 93 octane always!!!!
6. I haven't dealt with nitrous
7. i have an afco HE with the interchiller behind that!!

So i have most of that taken care of but it seems its still debatable! Guess I'll pic up the 6lber and wait for Sal to come to houston for a dyno tunning session and see what he has to say.

Thanks for all the thoughts guys this is what i was trying to get, voices from both sides of the fence.

wkuper11.....what octane do you run? Do you feel there was anything you could have done to prevent a vented block with you 6#er on?

 

I was like you last year, very crazy.. When I bought my True Blue 02 I said I wasn't going to mod it... Yea sure... Any way I researched things as well as i could and I when with a #4 a filter and a generic off the shelf chip.. This was the way to go at the time.. Now things are different thanks to a more tunable chip and a dyno to figure things out and make it more safe. Last fall I got a itch for more speed so I went threw what you are going threw. First I when and got Dynateced and full exhaust. Then I went with a #6 and got the new flip chip and dynotuned... I am an older guy and don't race my shadow, but if I catch you at a redlight we will run. Some guys could blow them up stock racing there shadows, guess we all know a few of them... I have a flip chip as I stated, one side very very safe with nice easy shifts ( easy on the transmission) the other more agressive with elevated line pressures, that give me the abillity to flip it on the fly. I have about 5000 mile on the truck since i did the work, and have driven back and forth from D.C. area to Fla running 80 -85 mph... Every things fine. Just remember if you do it your running bigger boost, ( ported blower be careful).............

PEacE.....................
Jim

 

I ran 93 octane all the time and race fuel when I messed around, I was on a "safe" dyno tune non-aggressive by one of the big 3 vendors, the only thing I could have done to prevent it from blowing was not modding it or not driving it, If you look back at my early posts on this board you will see that I was one of the most paranoid people about modding my truck, I took all the precautions. I just don't want to see another guy on the board with a blown motor, unless you have the $$ and time to fix it.
good luck.

looking back now the gains I got from the extra boost and the magnum blower are not worth the hassle and expense of right now. I'm sure I will love the truck with a built motor if I ever finish it, but I would have rather been driving it last year and saving my money now.