Alt. output = 37 volts?
Alt. output = 37 volts?
Hey Guys-
What's up with this?
Did a search (all forums) found very little info regarding high outputs.
Funny thing is, my batteries keep going dead. WTF?
Some background, all things electrical have remained unchanged for at least a year.
Many guages, relocated batteries, stereo, nitrous, methanol, elec h2o pump, elec HE fans, KB BAP, Battery kill switch etc.
I have had a slow drain in the past which I was able to trace but this has me perplexed.
I can hold a charge overnight (when recharged), and batteries do pass a load test.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Andy
What's up with this?
Did a search (all forums) found very little info regarding high outputs.
Funny thing is, my batteries keep going dead. WTF?
Some background, all things electrical have remained unchanged for at least a year.
Many guages, relocated batteries, stereo, nitrous, methanol, elec h2o pump, elec HE fans, KB BAP, Battery kill switch etc.
I have had a slow drain in the past which I was able to trace but this has me perplexed.
I can hold a charge overnight (when recharged), and batteries do pass a load test.
Anyone?
Thanks,
Andy
Is that 37V checked with no load? Even at no load I think the voltage should only be a coupe of volts higher(like maybe 14.5V). I think these alternators use transistors instead of diodes, and there is a battery sense wire inside it that senses high or low battery voltage, which turns the transistors on or off while running. This is what I was told when I was having issues with the alternator on my boat. Anyway, go to a good shop that specializes in alternators and get it checked out before it blows up.
Thanks guys,
I checked the volts to my battery cut off switch and the lead from the alternator is at 37 + volts at idle. However, the switch does not appear to be sending voltage to my batteries.
this leads me to believe one of two things:
My switch is fried or, my switch is fried because of the alternator.
Sooooo, I'm between a rock and a hard place....the cooked switch could be protecting my electrical system right now or it may be the problem!
Any more input?
-Andy
I checked the volts to my battery cut off switch and the lead from the alternator is at 37 + volts at idle. However, the switch does not appear to be sending voltage to my batteries.
this leads me to believe one of two things:
My switch is fried or, my switch is fried because of the alternator.
Sooooo, I'm between a rock and a hard place....the cooked switch could be protecting my electrical system right now or it may be the problem!
Any more input?
-Andy
I would order a new switch. In the mean time, take the alternator off the truck and bring it to a good alternator shop. After they fix the alternator, install a new switch before you run it.
Also check out any added electronics to see if they may have caused the problem.
Also check out any added electronics to see if they may have caused the problem.
yysenhimer and other "helpers"
Thanks again
Did testing of the alternator and associated fuses in the truck, volts ranged between 36 - 43 volts!!!
Did some more testing, finally said f-it and bypassed the switch and.....problem solved! Bad battery cutoff switch.
14.5+- volts at idle with the switch bypassed.
Put the ****** switch in 3 years ago, guess time has taken it's toll on the dam thing.
Soooo, alternator see's that it's not charging anything = major spike in voltage to charge that which is not taking a charge.
Another problem for the search engine
See ya
-Andy
Thanks again

Did testing of the alternator and associated fuses in the truck, volts ranged between 36 - 43 volts!!!
Did some more testing, finally said f-it and bypassed the switch and.....problem solved! Bad battery cutoff switch.
14.5+- volts at idle with the switch bypassed.
Put the ****** switch in 3 years ago, guess time has taken it's toll on the dam thing.
Soooo, alternator see's that it's not charging anything = major spike in voltage to charge that which is not taking a charge.
Another problem for the search engine
See ya
-Andy


