Vid of RAMAIRSVT's 10 sec pass
 

My girlfriend 60's just as good as you. HaHaHa

what are you using as traction bars.... whats your secret to launch like that

Using the Metco top mounted bars, QA1's up ft set at 1 and about 6 in the back, still spinning my booty off; I give up, I suck.. but nice lift hu? LOL:D

Your making enough power that your gonna want to bring the instant center further rearward now. It'll turn that hop into fwd movement. ;)

Rich

Ya I agree if you get it hooking better you will really improve you times. Get a set of rancho bars and your truck will just squat and leave.

If you look at this video both Mike and I run the ranch bars, you can see the rear squat and there isn't any of the hop like you are getting.

http://video.funfordevents.com/FFW/2...nial_Truck.wmv

It must be a little scarry launching like that, with the ranchos you will have much better control off the like,

Congratts on getting into the 10's I know how happy you are:thumbsup:

:bows: :bows:

Great run!
I do have a question. I don't understand why people want body squat. Isn't that just transfering energy to the body and not to the wheels? When I look at for example Pro Stocks they do not have body squat. The squat if any is in the slicks. If the rear shocks are set to be stiff then the energy is tranfered down on the tires and not wasted on moving the body down. Where are the physicists?

WOO HOO CONGRATS RAM AIR :bows:
niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice :banana:

It's different at different stages of power and tire usage.

A 17 second car would loose ET by moving the body...

A 12 second car is generally a "bolt on" car and WILL spin the tires off the line. This type needs a "bolt on" method for planting the rear tires as hard as he can. Which = rear end squat. (actually it's the front raising not the rear squating)

RAMAIRSVT, & the other big shooters ARE going for quickest ET. They don't want to transfer any of the torque into moving the body of the car/truck. They simply want foward movement. The best way to achieve that is a stiff chassie and a 4 link rear suspension.


In my situation, I like to just have fun and run my street nitto 404s radials quite often. They don't hook very good at all and for that matter I can spin the MT ET streets too w/o a real good burnout. So in My case I want to transfer as much weigh as I can onto the rear tires. See.. I'm not shooting for the quickest ET. But I do want to make it as consistant as I can. The best and cheapest way to do that is to effectively have a traction bar that has it's foward fulcrum point (instant center) as far fwd as is possible.


Rich :cool:

Hey don, are 58" bars that JDM sells the same as Rancho bars? Johnfastruck and I were having a stock block competition and he 60'd the crap out of me with his 58" bars. I definately need to get rid of the slappers. Which do you think is hurting me worse, the slappers or the stock rear Bilsteins? By the way john had a 1.58 60' and I had 1.68 60'. but I out trapped him.

I have the Metco upper links also. Would the addition of a pinion snubber also be helpful in a 12sec or faster truck?

I doub't it. The upper links form about the best "bolt on" 4-link-ish type of setup. The pinion snubber would only complicate and compound the geometry as it goes through it's movement when squating. Changing the location of the frame mounting point would be the best way to reduce any squat you have.

With the leaf springs & rubber eye bushings the rearend can move up/down, twist, fore/aft and walk side to side. Every single one of the traction bars on the market control or even stop the twist. But they all don't stop side-to-side walk (slapper bars) and cal tracs)
It's the "instant center" that makes the differenence as to what the body does when applying torque. A small slapper bar has the instant center behind the "CG" (center of gravity). Actually they are pretty bad IMO.. Don't get me wrong they do *work* for most gen 2s. But they allow the rearend to move quite a bit.
I first choose the cal-tracs because of thier ability to allow the rrearend to move around a little (NVH reductions) but yet had a decent instant center. But when the long tubes were on sale I jumped on them. Glad I did too because as is I have to feather the throttle when running street radials. They have clearly reduced my 60ft ETs by a full tenth when running street radials. Not to mention preventing damage from when that FTVB kicks on the 1-2 shift. :banana: (check out my web page for a pic of me launching on 26" ET streets)

Rich

Trust me, it was way worse in person....

EASILY 10.60-10.70 Truck with traction....

He wouldnt stop spinning till about 400-500 feet out...

MAJOR power in that truck...

Nice cams to.... :rocker:

Ill try to import some of the vids I have to...

I watched and watched the vid. Look how much the front raises whe he first launches. That instant center is wayyyyy fwd. The truck makes so much torque that it just raises the front, the rear tires bounce back, the truck suddenly falls, spinning the tires.

Either a instant center that is just ahead of the CG or a easier launch is needed for better ETs.

(sorry... I'm a product engineer with suspension experience. :angel: )

Rich