New block?
If that is for the Ford GT[which it says it is] there are not mounting bosses for the YOUR motor mounts.at least that is what the ford engineering guy toward me when they first canme out.sTan
Also it is set up for a dry sump system so there is also no provision for the oil pump behind the timing cover.
Also it is set up for a dry sump system so there is also no provision for the oil pump behind the timing cover.
The research I did says that with some machine work the stock oil pump will bolt up.
You have to remove a slug of aluminum to make room for the starter because that is all ford did was just fill in the area were the stock starter bolts in....remember the starter bolts to the trans not the block.
The motor mounts will bolt up...at least they will for a Cobra Mustang. These blocks are in use in Cobra drag racers right now and some of those guys know a lot about them.
Another larger hurdle is in the oiling system....I'm not clear if a stock pan will bolt up and if it would, will it clear the oil drain back holes which as you can see are divorced from the crank tunnel now. Also the GT block uses a fancy windagetray/scraper/mainsupport piece that is very expensive and I am not sure if it is mandatory to use that piece or not.
I never asked the last two questions in my search because I figured the whole idea was not worth it. It would be cheaper to buy the SHM block.
Which reminds me...the GT block will support a 3.700 bore but it has to be resleeved to get it there.
Dale
You have to remove a slug of aluminum to make room for the starter because that is all ford did was just fill in the area were the stock starter bolts in....remember the starter bolts to the trans not the block.
The motor mounts will bolt up...at least they will for a Cobra Mustang. These blocks are in use in Cobra drag racers right now and some of those guys know a lot about them.
Another larger hurdle is in the oiling system....I'm not clear if a stock pan will bolt up and if it would, will it clear the oil drain back holes which as you can see are divorced from the crank tunnel now. Also the GT block uses a fancy windagetray/scraper/mainsupport piece that is very expensive and I am not sure if it is mandatory to use that piece or not.
I never asked the last two questions in my search because I figured the whole idea was not worth it. It would be cheaper to buy the SHM block.
Which reminds me...the GT block will support a 3.700 bore but it has to be resleeved to get it there.
Dale
The block price is what they are going for at the dealerships. Basicly about 100 to 200 bucks cheaper. I was quoted $2,500. bucks with my employee discount.


