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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:38 AM
  #1  
Derek94's Avatar
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Electric Fan controllers/Wiring

Well guys, i've bought an RF-86 Motorcraft fan, and now need to pick a fan controller to use. Does anybody use the Madenterprise.com fan controller kit? Anybody that has pieced together their own electric fan kits, could you comment on the kit you used, what you liked/disliked, etc. Just trying to find the most complete, easiest to install wiring kit.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 08:39 AM
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It's a bit pricey at $75 But I have two complete e-fan conversions on two different cars. I used the flex-a-lite controler Part# 31165-VSC. I really really like it. It slowly ramps the fan speed up based on increasing temps. It also easily allows for manual on, manual off, a little screw to tune at what temp it comes on... ect.

It's a nice little controler.



Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 10:56 AM
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Thats actually cheaper than what i was going to buy. If i bought that controller, have the fan, what other parts will i need? Switches, relays? Thanks
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 11:51 AM
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That unit contains everything. I'm 99% sure it comes with the heavy fuse between it and the battery too.

On my truck I mounted it on the pass side top corner of the shroud (flex-a-lite 270 shroud).

Also, one mistake I made was tapping into the A/C wire. I did it by the compressor. But you can do a search here or at nloc and see pics of where to simply take it off the driver side box. (in engine compartment)

Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:07 PM
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Do you have any pics of it? This will control the Rf86 just fine? Its just a 2 speed fan, im assuming the controller u mentioned will control that. Manual switch? Thanks man!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:18 PM
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Yeah I've got some pics. I can post them tonight.

Here is a link to thier site. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html...cessories.html

Thier earlier versons were two speed. 60% and 100%. Now they start at something like 60% and it will gradually speed up the fan based on temps. my truck has the two speed version. And my car has the newer variable speed with thier new Syclone S-blade.

www.wotds.com/SS

As far as the electrical aspects go.. I'm really not the guy to ask. I can push electrons around pretty good via a keyboard... But other electrical tasks make me look like this..

Just give them a call and they'll direct you in the right way.

Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 12:38 PM
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Rich, I checked out the controller you mentioned.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fan-accessories.html
Looks like a real nice controller. However it states that the max draw on it is 25 amps. I was under the assumption that the Motorcraft fan draws around 30 amps continous.
I used the Hayden fan controller and wired it to control a 70 amp continous solenoid. Then I powered the fan directly from the battery through the solenoid. I also wired a LED to the load side of the solenoid and mounted it in my gauge pod so I can monitor voltage to the fan.
If I had to do it over again I would use the Flex-a-lite controller.
Here is a write up of a DIY install.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2003/02/electricfan/index.shtml
JES
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 01:55 PM
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I donno? But I do have a 25amp fuse in the SS. Not sure what I have in the truck? I'll take some pics and check tonight.

Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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Cool

I have the earlier version Flex-A--Lite controller on my Flex-A-Lite 270 fan kit.

I agree that it is a nice controller, but it lacks 1 thing, IMHO: A way to intelligently disable the fan when the truck is moving faster than 30 MPH or so.

The Madenterprises controller uses a temp probe, inserted into the condenser, to activate the fan for the AC functions. Pretty ingenious and definitely helps to lower the run time hours on the fans.

Just something to consider...
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 03:43 PM
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A way to intelligently disable the fan when the truck is moving faster than 30 MPH or so.
I have mine adjusted so that it's not on at hwy speeds. Temp guage always stay's at it's spot too. (on the truck)

Took a while on both cars to dial it in. But once you figure it out it's pretty much a "forget about it" type of mod.

BTW: Thier S-blade fan is indeed very quiet. I can barely hear it on my SS. Can't even hear it from inside the car. At first I kept thinking it was'nt running. But then when I'd get out to adjust it I could hear it.


Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 04:05 PM
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Originally posted by wydopnthrtl
I have mine adjusted so that it's not on at hwy speeds. Temp guage always stay's at it's spot too. (on the truck)

Took a while on both cars to dial it in. But once you figure it out it's pretty much a "forget about it" type of mod.

BTW: Thier S-blade fan is indeed very quiet. I can barely hear it on my SS. Can't even hear it from inside the car. At first I kept thinking it was'nt running. But then when I'd get out to adjust it I could hear it.


Rich
If you wire the AC compressor lead to the controller as Flex-A-Lite suggests, you can't adjust the controller to not turn on when the AC runs. Any input to the controller on any of the terminals over-rides any temperature activated control.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 05:12 PM
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Yes... I understand that.

On the truck it does'nt matter to me cause I only drive it in nice weather. On the SS I do unplug that terminal when it's cold and I'm needing defrost more often.

Rich
 
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Old Jan 28, 2005 | 09:02 PM
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From: DETROIT, (formerly Eaton County, Michigan)
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...&highlight=fan
EXCELLENT WRITE UP ON E-FAN AND WIRING KIT.


you need to wire it?

I went through 3 wiring kits until I found the one I liked

HAYDEN electric Fan wiring kit, Part number 3647


why?
1. It has an adjustable thermometer for the On and Off of the fans, adjustable from 160-280 ( I think)

2. It can support Dual Cooling fans.

3. It has the A/C interface, to kick on the fans when the A/C comes on

4. You can wire in a manual on/off switch to cool down between runs.

5. You can get it at any MURRAY AUTO PARTS. The price is $34.99 plus $2.10 tax total $37.09.


IT is not a perfect kit, with the above fan you need to change the fuses to circuit breakers. I started with:

The Kit came with a 12v 25amp fuse which I tossed out.
I put 2 40 amp 14v circuit breakers in there.
The first one is about 2" from the battery (to protect that power wire), I installed an inline fuse holder and put the circuit breaker right there then sealed it with electrical tape, looks almost factory.
The other Is in the power going to the fan itself, the kit already had the fuse holder, I simply tossed the fuse and put in the 40 amp 14v circuit breaker.

I noticed on my old kit I had a 30 amp circuit breaker and it kept tripping as soon as the fan kicked on, fan would run for about 2 seconds. I went and bought a 40 amp 12v and it would run a little longer. The 40 amp 14v circuit breaker did the trick!!!

The Fan kit has a 40/50 amp relay and so far it has been working fine.

To adjust the fan "on" temp. I follwed the instructions. I installed it, and then started the truck, you let it warm up until the coolant thermostat pops open and the water starts circulating, I have a 160 degree thermostat so I knew somewhere around there it would open. Once that opened I knew I had to turn the little dial with a phillips screwdriver to set the temp for the fans. SO i was reaching down to grab the screwdriver and the fan kicked on. I'd say it was probably within a minute of the thermostat opening. (had to make s


IT is not a perfect kit, with the above fan you need to change the fuses to circuit breakers. I started with:

The Kit came with a 12v 25amp fuse which I tossed out.
I put 2 40 amp 14v circuit breakers in there.
The first one is about 2" from the battery (to protect that power wire), I installed an inline fuse holder and put the circuit breaker right there then sealed it with electrical tape, looks almost factory.
The other Is in the power going to the fan itself, the kit already had the fuse holder, I simply tossed the fuse and put in the 40 amp 14v circuit breaker.

I noticed on my old kit I had a 30 amp circuit breaker and it kept tripping as soon as the fan kicked on, fan would run for about 2 seconds. I went and bought a 40 amp 12v and it would run a little longer. The 40 amp 14v circuit breaker did the trick!!!

The Fan kit has a 40/50 amp relay and so far it has been working fine.

To adjust the fan "on" temp. I follwed the instructions. I installed it, and then started the truck, you let it warm up until the coolant thermostat pops open and the water starts circulating, I have a 160 degree thermostat so I knew somewhere around there it would open. Once that opened I knew I had to turn the little dial with a phillips screwdriver to set the temp for the fans. SO i was reaching down to grab the screwdriver and the fan kicked on. I'd say it was probably within a minute of the thermostat opening. (had to make sure it was opened)

one of my old kit had a radiator sensor that fit between the radiator cooling fins, that you slide through and put a clip on the end of it. This one had a similar sensor, but a completely different mounting kit. The new one has a plastic round zip tie that you side through and it connects to a plastic plate on the other side, you slide the sensor through the plate and it is fastened. (it looks much better than the old one and holds much better.)


Need more information?


http://www.haydenauto.com/hc2000/e_...df/contents.pdf

page 89 of 116.

Need more info:
http://www.miloc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=933

BTW:
Soaps writeup is top notch
The fan can be bnought with employee discount for about $100-120
The wiring kit is cheap.
You can save yourself over $300 if you do it yourself VS. buying a premade kit from tuner
 
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Old Jan 31, 2005 | 11:21 PM
  #14  
wydopnthrtl's Avatar
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From: SE Mich
Here are the pics of mine as promised....



 
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Old Feb 1, 2005 | 11:27 PM
  #15  
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From: The Colony, TX
Anyone tried to use the PCM to control the fan?

In the SCT software you can enable a 1 or 2 speed fan. Only thing you would need to interface is the relays, circuit breakers & optional switch to manually enable. This is assuming that the PCM has enough output to power the relays & that the wires are already in the harness. If the wires are not in the harness it should not be too difficult to wire them in.

Mike
 
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