Rusted Bassani
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Rusted Bassani
Boo Hoo........
Poor me, my ALL STAINLESS BASSANI EXHAUST has rusted.
Even though, the experts here, state that a stainless exhaust doesn't rust
(I guess the experts don't know that there are different grades of stainless........the percentage of nickel and chrome content make all the difference :-O
The truck is never driven during the winter months, and has been on the truck 2 1/2 yrs. Guess I should write Bassani and complain huh?
Poor me, my ALL STAINLESS BASSANI EXHAUST has rusted.
Even though, the experts here, state that a stainless exhaust doesn't rust
(I guess the experts don't know that there are different grades of stainless........the percentage of nickel and chrome content make all the difference :-OThe truck is never driven during the winter months, and has been on the truck 2 1/2 yrs. Guess I should write Bassani and complain huh?
GATOR
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From: NH
I hear what your saying Gator. It seems “some” people don’t understand that fact that “stainless steel” can and WILL rust if it is not cared for properly. Stainless simple has a coating on it to “help” prevent it from rusting, as you stated Stainless steel is an alloy that contains at least 50% iron and 10% chromium. The chromium inhibits corrosion and thus plays a part in defining stainless steel. The more chromium, the more corrosion-resistance, up to a maximum of about 30%. But chromium is not the only factor in corrosion resistance. Many other elements are added to enhance the properties of a particular grade and type of stainless steel.
There are 8 separate types of "corrosion" that can happen to “stainless steel”:
1. Uniform Attack – also known as general corrosion, this type of corrosion occurs when there is an overall breakdown of the passive film of stainless and allow corrosion to occur. These halogens are easily recognizable, because they end with “-ine”. Fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, and astatine are some of the most active.
2. Crevice Corrosion – this is a problem with stainless fasteners used in seawater applications, because of the low PH of salt water. Chlorides pit the passivated surface, where the low PH saltwater attacks the exposed metal. Lacking the oxygen to re-passivate, corrosion continues. As is signified by its name, this corrosion is most common in oxygen restricted crevices, such as under a bolt head.
3. Pitting – See Galvanic Corrosion. Stainless that had had its passivation penetrated in a small spot becomes an anodic, with the passivated part remaining a cathodic, causing a pit type corrosion.
4. Galvanic Corrosion - Placing 2 dissimilar metals in a electrolyte produces an electrical current. A battery incorporates this simple philosophy in a controlled environment. The current flows from the anodic metal and towards the cathodic metal, and in the process slowly removes material from the anodic metal. Seawater makes a good electrolyte, and thus, galvanic corrosion is a common problem in this environment. 18-8 series stainless fasteners that work fine on fresh water boats, may experience accelerated galvanic corrosion in seawater boats, and thus it is suggested you examine 316 stainless.
5. Intergranular Corrosion - all austentic stainless steels contain a small amount of carbon. At extremely high temperature, such as welding, the carbon forces local chrome to form chromium carbide around it, thus starving adjacent areas of the chrome it needs for its own corrosion protection. When welding, it is recommended you consider low carbon stainless such as 304L or 316L.
6. Selective Leaching – Fluids will remove metal during a de-ionization or de-mineralization process. This usually happens inside a pipe and is rarely a fastener problem.
7. Erosion Corrosion – This corrosion happens when the velocity of an abrasive fluid removes the passivation from a stainless. Again, this is almost exclusively limited to pipe interiors and rarely a fastener problem.
8. Stress Corrosion – Also called stress corrosion cracking or chloride stress corrosion. Chlorides are probably the single biggest enemy of stainless steel. Next to water, chloride is the most common chemical found in nature. In most environments, the PPM are so small the effects on stainless are minute. But in extreme environments, such as indoor swimming pools, the effects can be extreme and potentially dangerous. If a stainless part is under tensile stress, the pitting mentioned above will deepen, and cracking may take place. If you are using stainless steel bolts under tensile stress, in an environment where chlorine corrosion is likely, you should examine the potential for stress corrosion cracking carefully.
Methods to combat corrosion in stainless –
Clean, clean, clean. A simplistic example of the effectiveness of cleaning is right in the house. A stainless kitchen sink can see some of the most hostile chemical attacks in a home. But the stainless stays bright. Why? Because the constant flow of fresh water and wiping down removes the harmful chemicals that if left unattended, could attack the stainless passive film. The more hostile the environment, the more cleaning required, Cleanliness is essential for maximum resistance to corrosion
IMPORTANT FACT –
No metal, except gold and platinum in their natural state, are completely corrosion proof. But stainless steel has proven in thousands of applications, that it is one of the most economical solutions to combat the ever present elements that cause corrosion. Yet as its name implies – it is “stain-less” not “stain-proof”…
There are 8 separate types of "corrosion" that can happen to “stainless steel”:
1. Uniform Attack – also known as general corrosion, this type of corrosion occurs when there is an overall breakdown of the passive film of stainless and allow corrosion to occur. These halogens are easily recognizable, because they end with “-ine”. Fluorine, chlorine, bromine, iodine, and astatine are some of the most active.
2. Crevice Corrosion – this is a problem with stainless fasteners used in seawater applications, because of the low PH of salt water. Chlorides pit the passivated surface, where the low PH saltwater attacks the exposed metal. Lacking the oxygen to re-passivate, corrosion continues. As is signified by its name, this corrosion is most common in oxygen restricted crevices, such as under a bolt head.
3. Pitting – See Galvanic Corrosion. Stainless that had had its passivation penetrated in a small spot becomes an anodic, with the passivated part remaining a cathodic, causing a pit type corrosion.
4. Galvanic Corrosion - Placing 2 dissimilar metals in a electrolyte produces an electrical current. A battery incorporates this simple philosophy in a controlled environment. The current flows from the anodic metal and towards the cathodic metal, and in the process slowly removes material from the anodic metal. Seawater makes a good electrolyte, and thus, galvanic corrosion is a common problem in this environment. 18-8 series stainless fasteners that work fine on fresh water boats, may experience accelerated galvanic corrosion in seawater boats, and thus it is suggested you examine 316 stainless.
5. Intergranular Corrosion - all austentic stainless steels contain a small amount of carbon. At extremely high temperature, such as welding, the carbon forces local chrome to form chromium carbide around it, thus starving adjacent areas of the chrome it needs for its own corrosion protection. When welding, it is recommended you consider low carbon stainless such as 304L or 316L.
6. Selective Leaching – Fluids will remove metal during a de-ionization or de-mineralization process. This usually happens inside a pipe and is rarely a fastener problem.
7. Erosion Corrosion – This corrosion happens when the velocity of an abrasive fluid removes the passivation from a stainless. Again, this is almost exclusively limited to pipe interiors and rarely a fastener problem.
8. Stress Corrosion – Also called stress corrosion cracking or chloride stress corrosion. Chlorides are probably the single biggest enemy of stainless steel. Next to water, chloride is the most common chemical found in nature. In most environments, the PPM are so small the effects on stainless are minute. But in extreme environments, such as indoor swimming pools, the effects can be extreme and potentially dangerous. If a stainless part is under tensile stress, the pitting mentioned above will deepen, and cracking may take place. If you are using stainless steel bolts under tensile stress, in an environment where chlorine corrosion is likely, you should examine the potential for stress corrosion cracking carefully.
Methods to combat corrosion in stainless –
Clean, clean, clean. A simplistic example of the effectiveness of cleaning is right in the house. A stainless kitchen sink can see some of the most hostile chemical attacks in a home. But the stainless stays bright. Why? Because the constant flow of fresh water and wiping down removes the harmful chemicals that if left unattended, could attack the stainless passive film. The more hostile the environment, the more cleaning required, Cleanliness is essential for maximum resistance to corrosion
IMPORTANT FACT –
No metal, except gold and platinum in their natural state, are completely corrosion proof. But stainless steel has proven in thousands of applications, that it is one of the most economical solutions to combat the ever present elements that cause corrosion. Yet as its name implies – it is “stain-less” not “stain-proof”…
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From: The Bluegrass State
Anyone else think that 01 hijacked that off of a website somewhere?
HAHA! I'm just busting your chops 01 XLT...
RP
HAHA! I'm just busting your chops 01 XLT...
RP
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From: NY/NJ
Just wax the stainless every now and then you'll be fine. My 87 Taurus still has the original stock stainless exhaust on it. 
https://home.comcast.net/~frdfandc/LaneWreck1_9_04_.wmv
https://home.comcast.net/~frdfandc/LaneWreck1_9_04_.wmv
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From: NH
Originally posted by RockPick
Anyone else think that 01 hijacked that off of a website somewhere?
HAHA! I'm just busting your chops 01 XLT...
RP
Anyone else think that 01 hijacked that off of a website somewhere?
HAHA! I'm just busting your chops 01 XLT...
RP
I did know that stainless steel in “not” rust proof but I wanted to do some “investigation” prior to my post for the non-believers…
Even pasivating something does not guarantee it will not rust, or stain. We passivate many different parts for our electrical motors and if they get a nice ding or scratch in them they “could” stain, just like stainless steel step tubes for the sides of trucks…
However, something tells me that Zaino is not up to the task of keeping stainless nice, shinny and protected, just too much heat…
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Posts: 1,584
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From: Miami, Fl.
Every night before the Lightning goes to sleep I gently floss between her exhaust tips.
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
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From: Elkton, MD
Originally posted by litnfast
Every night before the Lightning goes to sleep I gently floss between her exhaust tips.
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
Every night before the Lightning goes to sleep I gently floss between her exhaust tips.
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
Bryan
Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 80
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Re: Rusted Bassani
Originally posted by Fast Gator
Boo Hoo........
Poor me, my ALL STAINLESS BASSANI EXHAUST has rusted.
Even though, the experts here, state that a stainless exhaust doesn't rust (I guess the experts don't know that there are different grades of stainless........the percentage of nickel and chrome content make all the difference
The truck is never driven during the winter months, and has been on the truck 2 1/2 yrs. Guess I should write Bassani and complain huh
Boo Hoo........
Poor me, my ALL STAINLESS BASSANI EXHAUST has rusted.
Even though, the experts here, state that a stainless exhaust doesn't rust
(I guess the experts don't know that there are different grades of stainless........the percentage of nickel and chrome content make all the difference The truck is never driven during the winter months, and has been on the truck 2 1/2 yrs. Guess I should write Bassani and complain huh
Steve A.
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Originally posted by litnfast
Every night before the Lightning goes to sleep I gently floss between her exhaust tips.
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
Every night before the Lightning goes to sleep I gently floss between her exhaust tips.
Then using a mild facial soap and Luffa Sponge I wipe down her mufflers and pipes.
Doesn't everyone?
Except Gator...
When are you going to learn that those Bassani clamps are worthless?
Oh I forgot, you know everything
