Ignition problems
Been having some problems with my "L" since I returned from overseas (week ago). Somtimes it starts...somtimes it won't.
Acts like a starter problem....power to all accessories but when key is turned...it does not crank over. Battery has full charge (according to battery tester) and just replaced the starter.
It only does it after I drive it...never first thing in the morning. If I let it sit for a few minutes after driving it...it starts. I am kinda perplexed
Replacing the firewall-mounted selnoid today to rule that out. Only other thing I can think of is the Viper alarm maybe having something to do with it.
Acts like a starter problem....power to all accessories but when key is turned...it does not crank over. Battery has full charge (according to battery tester) and just replaced the starter.
It only does it after I drive it...never first thing in the morning. If I let it sit for a few minutes after driving it...it starts. I am kinda perplexed
Replacing the firewall-mounted selnoid today to rule that out. Only other thing I can think of is the Viper alarm maybe having something to do with it.
I was going to say try the solenoid..
No Code being thrown when it acts up ? Sam have any suggestions ?
I'm on the west coast but taking the red eye back tonight call me if you need a hand Friday w/ it. I'll be back in Tampa tomorrow AM.
Art
No Code being thrown when it acts up ? Sam have any suggestions ?
I'm on the west coast but taking the red eye back tonight call me if you need a hand Friday w/ it. I'll be back in Tampa tomorrow AM.
Art
I'm going to take the alarm approach...
Just a guess without seeing the alarm install, but do you have a starter kill circuit in the truck for your alarm?
If that is the case then:
There are two ways to wire the relays for this, normally closed so that the starter will always work unless the alarm is armed, or normally open which won't all allow the starter to work until a disarmed status has occured. Being a viper alarm these are seperate relays not built in like cheaper units.
I personally don't like the N.O. configuration because if there is ever a failure your truck won't start, and I believe that D.E.I. alarms like Viper don't give the option for N.O. any more for that reason.
A couple of things to try and will tell where the problem lies: See if it will still not crank when you have freshly disarmed the truck I thinking your truck might be auto arming, if this doesn't work, when it doesn't crank, start your truck by turning just the ignition on then slowly turning the key to start, or the opposite by turning to the start position very quickly.
I could be as simple as the connections for this part of the alarm as well.
First thing is pinpoint if you can when exactly it is doing this, if you can.
Just a guess without seeing the alarm install, but do you have a starter kill circuit in the truck for your alarm?
If that is the case then:
There are two ways to wire the relays for this, normally closed so that the starter will always work unless the alarm is armed, or normally open which won't all allow the starter to work until a disarmed status has occured. Being a viper alarm these are seperate relays not built in like cheaper units.
I personally don't like the N.O. configuration because if there is ever a failure your truck won't start, and I believe that D.E.I. alarms like Viper don't give the option for N.O. any more for that reason.
A couple of things to try and will tell where the problem lies: See if it will still not crank when you have freshly disarmed the truck I thinking your truck might be auto arming, if this doesn't work, when it doesn't crank, start your truck by turning just the ignition on then slowly turning the key to start, or the opposite by turning to the start position very quickly.
I could be as simple as the connections for this part of the alarm as well.
First thing is pinpoint if you can when exactly it is doing this, if you can.
Last edited by SILVER2000SVT; Jan 13, 2005 at 10:24 AM.
Art-Man...Silver2000,
thanks for the tips. I have sorta gone to the "Alarm-Theory" as well. Went to Buzz-Off (Viper installer) and they wanted to charge me $55 just to disable it so I can either pin-point that or elimate it. WOW
Talked to Sam (Coastal Dyno)...as he had replaced the whole wire loom (coming off the battery) about a month ago when it fell against one of my headers and burnt through...almost catching fire. Bad part is ... I was deployed at the time and my girlfriend was driving. I know one of the wires is the main power wire going from the solenoid to the starter. Hmmmmm
Art-Man...you going to Quaker Lube on Saturday (Clearwater) for the local "Lightning Get-Together"? Also....a few of us are heading to Bradenton tonight to run on the Test/Tune till about 11pm.
thanks for the tips. I have sorta gone to the "Alarm-Theory" as well. Went to Buzz-Off (Viper installer) and they wanted to charge me $55 just to disable it so I can either pin-point that or elimate it. WOW
Talked to Sam (Coastal Dyno)...as he had replaced the whole wire loom (coming off the battery) about a month ago when it fell against one of my headers and burnt through...almost catching fire. Bad part is ... I was deployed at the time and my girlfriend was driving. I know one of the wires is the main power wire going from the solenoid to the starter. Hmmmmm
Art-Man...you going to Quaker Lube on Saturday (Clearwater) for the local "Lightning Get-Together"? Also....a few of us are heading to Bradenton tonight to run on the Test/Tune till about 11pm.
If you feel up to it, you can bypass the starter kill relay yourself. Look for an individual relay with a diode across the coil wiring, this should be close to the wiring harness for the ignition switch. If the relay has a socket, just unplug the relay and jumper the the two wires that connect to start wires from the ignition switch wiring harness. They should be the bigger wires on the relay.


