When installing a new boost by-pass canister (the black plastic canister attached to the rear right of the blower) what is the proper setting for the valve in the back of the blower? Should it be closed or open? When I installed the new blower I adjusted the boost by-pass bolts so the valve was completely closed. That valve should be open only when not in boost right? Thanks

I think mine is not adjusted correctly causing air to bypass the blower during boost.

 

Adjust it down til it touches then go approx 1mm (0.04") more. That's a good starting point.. From there you can move it either way to adjust how quickly you want the boost to come on.

Rich

 

That's what I did, it's a real pain to get to the bolts once the blower is installed.

So I am correct to say that when installing the blower the valve should be shut?

 

It's been a year since I set mine.... but I believe that when the plate is closed all the way is where I'm saying the pin/pod touches. Then you continue to put a "pre load" on it by another 1mm or so. (Mine stock had about 2mm of travel)

Whats important is that you only get boost when you push the gas pedal more than is required for normal driving.

Guys who tow a lot would set it deeper. That way they'd have to push the gas pedal something like 50% for the boost to come on. Sat night special types would set it so that it just barely touches and it would'nt take hardly any throttle at all to get boost.

Rich

 

I always looked at it like this.....the canister is spring loaded....the spring shuts the valve......the canister operates on vacuum....the more you preload the canister the quicker the valve shuts for a given amount of vacuum.

I pushed mine all the way down and preloaded the spring as much as possible, that way when you barely touch the pedal the valve is already starting to shut. You don't build boost until the valve is shut.

I never understood the "barely close the valve" adjustment.
Dale