I've always been a big advocate of having a summer and winter program. Once the temp drops I usually park my truck for the Michigan WInter Season. (It's been parked since beginning of September, for the most part).

In the summer here in michigan it averages 80's. Ocassionally a few days in the 90's and a handful in the 100's.

So obviously you will run richer due to the temperature and it's effect on the density of air.

But now it's hits a high of 50. So you can wake up in the morning and go to the track and you might be able to hit High 30's to low 40's.

Given the MAF, Baro sensor and all the other sensors...

How much does the temp REALLY effect a/f ratios?

I'm not talking about common sense, (some here actually have that) I'm talking data, scientific data. The type of data that I can't figure out what the heck you are talking about in your post and I have to take an hour or two to research and decipher it.

Reason being is that I would like to pull the L out of storage for a day and see what she'll run in 30 degree temps... My a/f is 11.8 - 12.0 straight across the ROM range.

and I've seen some stock trucks (bone stock) in the 13-14/1 range.

Is it really the a/f that we need to be concerned with or perhaps something else?

Scientific thoughts?

 

11.8 - 12.0 would be considered ON THE EDGE LEAN
"if" your talking about a High RPM / High MPH Dyno A/F

Yes it's ok to be lean in the lower RPM, schitt I don't think
I dip under 12 to @4000 RPM.
IT'S WHERE YOU ARE AT WOT BALLZ OUT THAT COUNTS
I'm safe there

(Notice this is exactly where I would be at the end of a run)

l-menace where it CAN get dangerous is,
in the Extreme Cold a L will and can add up to "3" MORE degrees
of timing, so in a sense your way of thinking IS CORRECT,
it may NOT necessarily be the A/F you have to worry about,
if your running decent timing now, lets say 19 on the street,
then the computer adds 3 more, YOU ARE IN TROUBLE
unless you have some serious Racing Fuel in there.

I can say from experience going through a few really cold NY winters already, that so far even with my crazy *** street timing, I have NEVER had an issue, and I have sprayed on a 20 degree night JUST TO MAKE SURE

BTW
I take away 2 lbs of Boost and run my Nitrous Program all winter
(or for the few days a Month I do take it) No Garage

 

hmm... interesting... I didn't think a/f changed that much maybe .1 or so...
forgot about the timing part of the equation...

Here is my graph.. (hope it works)

 

as it is programmed on my chip.

 

Your Fine (you got a little room for forgiveness)

I really don't know myself how the A/F would be effected ???
Great question, I would love to know the answer too....

I have a new Chip and Programs Now,
but here's the orig Dyno on my old reliable Chip

(of course I WILL BE much richer than others, due to N20)

(my new program was based on this info, so it should be simular)
I'll Dyno again soon, especially since I now use 25 more N20 HP
than when that Dyno was done

 

As Sal said when we dyno'd,
It's a good thing all that Power drops off on the top end,
other wise I would have gone BOOM by now