Just great. Today, while I was checking the air in the tires, I noticed small cracks in the rotors. They weren't anything big, just 1/2 inch or so and it looked like there was more than one on a couple of them. So I need to know how long I got to replace them before they get worse? Should I just replace the rotors and pads(I have Ceramic now) or go all out and get a complete brake kit like Brembo?

 

Mine are cracked as well...numerous in the drivers side front...one or two on the other.
Mine have been turned once. I now have close to 90000 miles on these...I have not noticed any problem..other than wondering if they will fly apart..but I kinda doubt it...If I did not have the cash Iw ould drive them as they are and not worry much...but that is me. I have come in to some jack so I am blowing it as usual.....It is burning a hole in my pocket....Think I'm going with Ruslows....

 

Big Man, a Brembo kit or some upgraded rotors would definately be a great addition.

but just so you know that you have options, this is a warranteable (sp?) issue.

ford will replace the rotors if they are cracked. I just did mine a few weeks back.

BTW, I believe that the ceramic brake pads make the problem worse. I have been told that they hold in or create more heat.

good luck.

later,
chris

 

The ceramic pads IS the biggest part of the problem!While they do not dust as pad.they don't stop as good either.Because you have to push harder on the pedal to get the same stopping effect[Before anyone says anything with POWER brakes 5 more pounds on the pedal can equal several hundred at the calipers]So since the material that is used on them is harder[only way I know of to reduce the dust]you have to push harder to get same drag coef. on the rotor.More psi = more heat = warped rotors or poor stopping.Stan

 

I don't know if Ford will warrante them because of the ceramic pads I put on and the other stuff I have done to the truck. Who knows though.

BUT, because of this, it does give me the chance on going ahead with a break upgrade. I just have to find the funds.

 

Ceramic pads don't create more heat, but they do brake differently, the compounds in ceramic pads are actually more compressible, this is where the slightly softer pedal comes from, but under normal braking they are more effective and pedal feel is only marginally different. They are absolutely not harder then semi-metallic.

A vehicle engine converts the stored energy in the fuel into heat, whcih the crankshaft turn to motion, and when you brake you are converting the motion energy back to heat.

A ceramic pad is similar to running your hand across a table, (push down a little) lots of grip and heat. A Semi-Metallic pad would be like putting a piece of sandpaper in your hand before you ran it across, friction and heat is againl generated, because the sandpaper is “digging-in” over time the table will physically have material removed (dust).

This is one of the reasons ceramics dust less, much of the dust on your wheels is oxidized material from the rotor that oxidizes and turns black. The second reason they dust less is the compounds are lighter in color and lastly the dust is not as "clingy" so it doesn’t stick and accumulate on the wheels as much.

This is also why "true" ceramic pads have a longer life vs. semi-metallics. I say "true" because many mfg. put "ceramic" on the box adds slightly different compounds and charge more.

 

But the big difference is in the specific heat (or heat absorption capacity) of the different materials. Generally. organics heat up quickly and provide good braking on the first stop and get worse as they get hotter because as the pad heats, it warps. Semi metallics have better heat transfer and while the coefficient of friction is less than the organics, they don't warp as much but take a higher pedal pressure to accomplish the same stopping distance (or time to disipate the same amount of energy by converting it into heat.). With ceramics, the vast majority of the heat is transfered to the rotor because the specific heat of the ceramic material is lower than the rotor. Surface cracks on the rotors are not an unusual result. Better braking is not always a function of bigger rotors. For example, the Lightning has large vented rotors, which have enough material to outlast a couple sets of pads. But a 1992 to 1999 S600 V-12 Mercedes sedan weighs about the same as the Lightning, but uses a much thinner, non vented rotor and a relatively soft pad. Both the braking and the pedal feel is excellent, but it is pretty well understood that a brake job includes both pads and rotors. You'll find the Bosch name on the ABS system for both vehicles.

 

I agree with you Kerno. I work with ceramic inserts on lathes to cut hard material. Ceramics are great at high speeds with great ventilation and/or coolant and will absorb great amounts of heat and dissapates the heat just as fast. And we are talking at least 300+ rpms to make the ceramic more efficient. The faster the better. What is happening with the pads are there is not adequate ventilation for the ceramic pads to cool as it's absorbing the heat. With out efficient cooling the heat transfers right back to the rotor making them warp and crack.

 

This is what you want if you are going to upgrade your system and don't have the jack for the Brembo's (see link below). I have this set-up and it works great at the track and on the street. If you don't do track events or auto-X don't waste your money. The stock system is plenty for stree use. If I was going to only drive an L on the street I would get a set of Stan's (RUSLOW) rotors (because they look good) and run the stock Ford pad.

A rotor very rarely warps. Almost 100% of the time what a person thinks is warping is uneven pad deposits on the rotors. I can get you a link to prove this point if anyone is interested.




http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...Lightning.mgi2

 

This is a great thread, lost of good info! Shadowbolt I would be interested in the link if you can post it!!

 

Here it is.

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm


Here is another with lots of brake info.

http://stoptech.com/technical/


Jerry

 

WOW...

It's like the presidential campaign with opinions on ceramic pads...

Maybe we need a vote then (hee hee).

I'll tell you my story... been running ceramic pads for the better part of 45,000 miles... no major dust... that's good.

The bad side... gone through 2 sets of rotors due to cracks and hot spots... Got to the point that the trucdk shuddered coming to a stop... not good.

Took of the ceramic pads... got dust. I'd much rather have dust than turning rotors every 6,000 (only twice before tossing them).

Next rotors will be slotted and dimpled... no ceramics.

 

I think I may go with slotted rottors and better pads since my funds is very low right now.

 

If you're going to buy slotted rotors, do a search here first. Some of the stuff on eBay has not worked out very well.

 

I have run Stan's dimpled slotted rears for about a year
now, and they are great ... The improvement is noticable.

I would be wary of some hack machinist selling slotted rotors on E-bay.

my $.02 ? Stick with the Man !!!