Transmission Temps (sender at 1/8 port)
Transmission Temps (sender at 1/8 port)
I have noticed lately that my transmission temps have been a little on the high side. I have an Autometer temp sender plugged into the 1/8 NPT plug in the tranny, above the pan rail on the drivers side.
Mods are FTVB, 4x4 pan, running Valvoline Mercon fluid (@8qts.).
My temps have been running 195-210 on the guage, with stop and go driving, in 72° air temps.
Isn't this a little high? Or is this normal, and the pan fluid temps tend to read lower?
Please advise!
joe
Mods are FTVB, 4x4 pan, running Valvoline Mercon fluid (@8qts.).
My temps have been running 195-210 on the guage, with stop and go driving, in 72° air temps.
Isn't this a little high? Or is this normal, and the pan fluid temps tend to read lower?
Please advise!
joe
Joe:
i have the exact same trans temp location (check your wires and make sure they did not melt to cats, etc.). assuming your gage and wiring are ok, and grounded correctly, fluid is topped off.
1) in 72 degree weather, crusing and stop and go, i used to see 165 degrees and under. even on 90 degree days, i NEVER saw anything near your temps. the MAX i saw was around 175 or so.
2) now that i have installed the FT trans cooler, i rarely get above 150 degrees, even in temps over 70 degrees
your temps seem really high.
i have the exact same trans temp location (check your wires and make sure they did not melt to cats, etc.). assuming your gage and wiring are ok, and grounded correctly, fluid is topped off.
1) in 72 degree weather, crusing and stop and go, i used to see 165 degrees and under. even on 90 degree days, i NEVER saw anything near your temps. the MAX i saw was around 175 or so.
2) now that i have installed the FT trans cooler, i rarely get above 150 degrees, even in temps over 70 degrees
your temps seem really high.
Dave, thanks. I guess I better check the routing of the wiring to see if the wires got melted. I brought it up through the main grommet in the firewall. Might want to reroute it out the driverside floor pan and up.
The gauge is true, and the sender is new. My fluid is reading full at warm.
I will troubleshoot, thanks for the direction.
joe
The gauge is true, and the sender is new. My fluid is reading full at warm.
I will troubleshoot, thanks for the direction.
joe
Joe,
I'm with Dave on this one - mines seen a MAX of 210 with heavy traffic, stop-n-go in 100+ Texas heat.
I don't recall if the sender increases or decreases resistance at temp come up. You might BRIEFLY short the sender lead to ground and watch the gauge response. On my install, I ran a separate ground wire and grounded at the trans pan as close as possible to the sender. **** and unneccessary? Maybe, but whay chance it?
Good luck,
Herb
I'm with Dave on this one - mines seen a MAX of 210 with heavy traffic, stop-n-go in 100+ Texas heat.
I don't recall if the sender increases or decreases resistance at temp come up. You might BRIEFLY short the sender lead to ground and watch the gauge response. On my install, I ran a separate ground wire and grounded at the trans pan as close as possible to the sender. **** and unneccessary? Maybe, but whay chance it?
Good luck,
Herb
Just wanted to add that i am running FT cooler, as i mentioned, and FTVB, along with deep sump trans pan. i had to redo my wiring once on trans temp wire due to it melting near cats. redid everything with painless high temp (i think it's called TFX or something like that) wire, then DEI industries heat sheathing, which is supposed to be good for 1,000 degrees or more. also (because i too am ****) surrounded that with DEI heat shield mat (sticky on one side). tie wrapped it everywhere along the way.
i have been experimenting with ONE bottle of pro-blend trans cooler fluid, and though some folks may doubt it, it actually DOES work in keeping trans fluid cooler (as measured from the gage, about 10 degrees). i am doing everything i can to keep trans cool, as i have the dreaded 2001 with 1J transmission (with the diode problem). hopefully, it won't let go and need to be replaced.
Dave
2001 L
i have been experimenting with ONE bottle of pro-blend trans cooler fluid, and though some folks may doubt it, it actually DOES work in keeping trans fluid cooler (as measured from the gage, about 10 degrees). i am doing everything i can to keep trans cool, as i have the dreaded 2001 with 1J transmission (with the diode problem). hopefully, it won't let go and need to be replaced.
Dave
2001 L
Joe,
Trans-wise, I'll totally stock.
Reading Dave's post about the wire he used reminded me - I ran the pait of wires (sender + ground) though a leftove length of #4 steel braided line (from my old Stang's fuel system). I heat shrunk the ends and captured the firewall end in one of those plastic wire loom Tees. The loom goes left to my fuel pressure gauge, right to my grommet and down to the steel braided trans 'conduit'.
I thought I had a pic, but I don't. I'd skinny under there and snap one but,....1) damn 2" drop and 2) I ain't skinny
Herb
Trans-wise, I'll totally stock.
Reading Dave's post about the wire he used reminded me - I ran the pait of wires (sender + ground) though a leftove length of #4 steel braided line (from my old Stang's fuel system). I heat shrunk the ends and captured the firewall end in one of those plastic wire loom Tees. The loom goes left to my fuel pressure gauge, right to my grommet and down to the steel braided trans 'conduit'.
I thought I had a pic, but I don't. I'd skinny under there and snap one but,....1) damn 2" drop and 2) I ain't skinny
Herb
I have the same gauge and at the track (road course) I see 215-225 in Texas heat. I also have the F/T cooler and valve body.
I want to know more about this cooling fluid. I'm really supprised I have not lost the trans with all the open track events I do.
Jerry
I want to know more about this cooling fluid. I'm really supprised I have not lost the trans with all the open track events I do.
Jerry
Trending Topics
1) Great that its fixe Joe!
2) Thanks Dave - the main reason I went with the steel braid was abrasion resistance. The L don't give much room for stuff in the tranny tunnel! I couldn't secure the wires the way a 'needed' to so, I dug into my free parts pile and used something that woould withstand some flopping around.
Herb
2) Thanks Dave - the main reason I went with the steel braid was abrasion resistance. The L don't give much room for stuff in the tranny tunnel! I couldn't secure the wires the way a 'needed' to so, I dug into my free parts pile and used something that woould withstand some flopping around.
Herb


