How did you get rotor flakes in there? How/ did you stop this from happening?

 

I say leave the PVC system as is and clean the intercooler every 50k or so.

I did mine at 60K and it was not all that bad.

For tips and tricks-what RED92 said.

A few comments:
1. Get a 13mm swivel to make the job easier getting to the back intercooler bolts
2. No need to remove the upper plenum- take as much with you as you can
3. Once I got the aft stud (on drivers side)out I swapped it to the #3 spot on the driver side and put the # 3 bolt in its place (#4). The stud was used as a mounting bolt for the EGR accessory stuff on that side.
The bracket can be held in place easily by the other stud on the #1 hole

 

I don't know about every 50K miles or so, but here is my intercooler only after 9-10K miles.





As you can see, its soaked. So I say the breather are whats needed to stop this. BTW - where can I get breathers that go on the cam covers? Im wanting to do this.

 

I did a search on google for breather filters, and came up with a site, I think it's called "We be rice and sh*t" clicky They are kinda small, so I think they are for a 4 banger. I need to look some more for bigger v-8 filters.

 

I was at the Eaton booth at Sema and I asked them about the flaking of the rotors. Apparently, the problem was caused by them not baking the rotor coating long enough and at a high enough temperature. The problem exists on two production years. He couldn't specify which year had the problem but they are very much aware of it.

By the comments on this board, which year seems to have the problem?

TB

 

Todds truck is an 03 so I would guess 02 - 03

 

any parts house ....O'Reilly's Auto Parts, Advance, Auto Zone...

 

I'm guessing they didn't seem concerned about it? I guess if they felt it hurt anything then it could be covered under warranty or they would have to issue a recall.

 

It's much cheaper to deal with the problems individually than to do a generalized recall. If you don't take your blower off, you may never know that you have a problem. In addition, you don't get the nasty publicity of a recall. Eaton is concerned because if a part is defective, they are part of the warranty.

They were very specific that it was two model years. I thought it was 01-02??????????

Anybody?

TB

 

So if I take my blower off and it had rotor flakes, should I contact Eaton? Ford? I'm still under warranty so I'm curious about this situation. Also, I'm with TB, does anyone know what years Eaton was referring to?

 

rotors from ALL years that have teflon coating flake off.

they're not going to do anything about it so i wouldn't bother. usually it stops after the intial flaking, so just clean it up the first time and then the next time notice there's hardly if any flakes at all.

 

Understood. But isn't there a reason teflon is on there? Why should I not be concerned about it all flaking off especially since I'm overspinning it with a 4# lower pulley?

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RED 92
[B] 29K 2003 L..this is not the norm !!! alot of rotor flake..also




Man I couldn't believe the amount of oil in my intercooler, galley, plenum and TB! I actually expected the rotor flake after reading that quite a few folks were seeing it when they pulled their blower. I just didn't expect it to be that bad.

All I can say is my L thanks you Clay! Since we cleaned the IC, galley, plenum and TB it runs much better and it's nice not having to worry about oil getting into the IC or TB again.

Thanks Again Bro you da man!

Todd

 

Just some FYI and my observations:

I know a couple of guys with L's that did the breather conversion with ZERO oil in the breather elements after lots of miles. This is of course a good thing.

On my L, I ran the Cobra 1-way PCV valve on the driver's side for about 20,000 miles. It did as expected and totally eliminated oil in the TB/Intake elbow. However, when I first went into the motor, I had TONS of oil in the I/C due to the hose running from the passenger side cam cover going into the rear of the upper intake plenum. I put in an oil separator and still had lots of oil (not as much but still too much) in the SC and I/C the next time I went into the motor but none in the front of the plenum/TB/Intake Elbow. Why? The 1-way valve on the drivers side cam cover TOTALLY blocks any flow out of the motor on that side. But that's a good thing, right?Maybe not. The oil separator filled up rapidly due to the volume of air (and oil mist) traveling up that hose. It didn't stop all the oil by any means. I decided to pull the separator and put a breather on the driver's side while capping off the vacuum line at the rear and the upper plenum port. It filled up the breather to the dripping point with oil after just a day of driving! Why? The driver side 1-way PCV was still in place and the crankcase pressure all went out the passenger side and into the breather. I now have the 1-way valve OUT of there and a breather on each cam cover. No oil in the breathers, either.

What have I learned from this? If you can get by without emission concerns, use breathers on both cam covers while plugging all the necessary lines as mentioned above and elsewhere. And don't use the 1-way PCV valve at all. It only serves to force the crankcase pressure out the passenger side and into either an oil separator (and past it) or into the rear plenum if you still have it set-up as OEM or into a breather if you have one of those (and expect that lone breather to fill up quickly with oil).

I guess we learn through our mistakes but I would've never put the 1-way valve on the drivers side just to eliminate oil in the TB since that forces the crankcase vapors and oil up and out the passenger side. If I had to do it over I would go with one breather on each cam cover from the beginning and skip all the oil, 1-way PCV valves, oil separators and can after can of carb cleaner.

 

rmfreeze,
Good observation. Now, are there any disadvantages other than emissions in eliminating both of these pcv lines and putting in two breathers?

TB