The CORRECT way to eliminate Belt Slippage
Originally posted by LightningTuner
You guys are all wrong. The PROPER way to eliminate belt slippage, is with a TURBO . Muhahahahaha
.
You guys are all wrong. The PROPER way to eliminate belt slippage, is with a TURBO . Muhahahahaha
.
Tampa,
Can you hook a brother up??? You can never have too many stainless allen bolts, cool fuse taps or bearings... Shoot me an e-mail at dan.mcguire@nice.com
Thanks dawg,
Dan
Can you hook a brother up??? You can never have too many stainless allen bolts, cool fuse taps or bearings... Shoot me an e-mail at dan.mcguire@nice.com
Thanks dawg,
Dan
Stop being a big girl... I have yet to recieve the bearings myself. They should arrive sometime next week.
You finish that computer for the LED's yet? I've started building the wheel brackets.
You finish that computer for the LED's yet? I've started building the wheel brackets.
Originally posted by LightningTuner
You guys are all wrong. The PROPER way to eliminate belt slippage, is with a TURBO . Muhahahahaha
.
You guys are all wrong. The PROPER way to eliminate belt slippage, is with a TURBO . Muhahahahaha
.
However I sure do miss my last 11 second - 1987 Buick Grand National, as that larger Turbo I had was really nice and NO Belt Slippage either!! HaHaHaHaHa!!!!!!!
actually Tim, thats funny you should bring that up. I switched back to the continuous grooved belt(stock design) and I have no more "black dust" from the grooved Reichard pulley. Also, I have almost no de-acceleration squeel like I had with the gatorback belt. I have been told from others that the factory patterned belt IS the belt to run. I'm starting to believe this as we are using more of the "factory" belts on our Lightnings here in South Florida.
Just a little FYI.
Just a little FYI.
Last edited by LatemodelRacer2; Oct 19, 2004 at 01:46 AM.




