I have been waiting for something different to happen and today it did. Hopefully this will help diagnoses my intermittent tranny problem.

After work I started my truck and it wouldn't idle at all. In any gear including park and neutral. It would die very fast, no shaking etc..

So I start it and just keep it running by giving it a little gas at stops. On the way home I quickly notice that after about 40mph the RPM's barely move. They get to where they should be but if I goose it just a bit the RPM's dont move at all, the speedo does.
Power is there just not the RPM's?? it also felt odd, i cant explain it, maybe it's sluggish?? from 0-40 it was perfectly normal.

about half way home it would idle again at a stop.

I will investigate further tomorrow am.

any ideas?

 

bump

 

Loose chip maybe?? What are your mods??

 

I have had a problem (about once a week) w\the truck dying when coming to a stop and hanging in what seemed to be 3rd or fourth making it a real bear to take back off.

There are no codes thrown and the two most common things to cause this are the tq converter and solenoid which have both been replaced. What happened today was totally different.

I do have a chip (revolution delta) however,we ruled out the chip long ago, it acted up without the chip also.
I have no tranny mods. I have a 2x4 combo,ported blower,densos,JLP air.

I had been leaning toward a computer problem myself but what happened today really threw me.

What in the world would keep the RPM's from moving when you punch it a little at about 60mph,
I mean they didn't budge.

 

Stuck converter clutch valve in the pump.

G

 

It is more likely to happen when it's hot because the valve expands when it gets hot, it's prolly warped or has a piece of dirt in it.

G

 

Sorry for the dumb question but is this in the converter or trans?
The converter is brand new.

and this would cause all the crazy things that are happening to my truck, i.e. dying at stop lights and now dying without giving it gas and the tach thing. Of course it starts and idles fine this morning.


thanks,

btw: No one has mentioned the valve body, I still have the stock one.

 

If you are driving around 60mph and bump the gas a little, not enought for a kickdown do your RPM's move any?

I know this is a crazy question but that fact is, I am going crazy.

 

What Gregg says is probably true. If you recently installed the converter, it probably contained a spec of crud that has lodged in the Converter Clutch Valve.

If it were me, I would replace said valve and it will most likely cure your problem. BTW, the valve is in the trans, not the converter.

 

Is this inlcuded in your re-build kit?

 

No it's not, and it doesn't usually need one per se, it's much more likely to be just dirty (there is no aftermarket part that works well, there is an aftermarket pump mod that disables PWM but Ford spent several years and quite a bit of money developing that system and it's worth the effort to keep it).
I will send you a new one that will keep PWM if you want one, just shoot me an address. SOmetimes they do warp and hang a bit, but I think a good cleaning will prolly clear it up.

G

 

For the first time ever my truck started the dying thing pulling into my drive.

since it was trying to die and I was trying to pull into the garage I had to give it gas and hold the brake. It sounded awful like a Diesel x10 from under the truck. Then this horrible burning smell
came and I quickly shut it down. I waited a few minutes and fired it back up, no problem and when I put it into drive the same thing
hapened, giving it gas and holding the brake to inch forward produced a strong burning smell. I eventually just pushed it into the garage. When I got up the next morning everything was perfect, like nothing ever happened.

I assume this is the clutch???

BTW: It goes to the shop Wed.

-Rich

 

Remove the inspection plate and look for a blue (heat line) line around the converter cover plate at the diameter of the studs, if it looks like it's been heat damaged or gotten hot, it's a burned up lockup piston (which is just the damge done, prolly not the cause). If it's not showing the ring, you didn't hurt the lockup clutch.

G

 

Got it
The same guy that swapped out my TQ converter will swap out the pump for $250, he was convinced it was the t\q converter also. This has got so many people baffled, just my luck
He said the part is about $146 his cost.

I will have him check the items you mentioned.

I'm going for just this part replacement and praying nothing else is wrong. He said if I wanted to re-build it he would charge $1,400


Thanks,
-Rich

 

Update in case some else runs into this problem.

As Greg E. said it was the pump\TCC control valve in the pump.

The mechanic said the tranny still looked like new and so did the pump but he replaced the valve,o-rings,etc.. in it anyway.
I knew something was different as soon as I drove it home. It felt like I put a chip in it for the first time.

The truck is running like it never did before. I'm not sure what was happening but it zapped my low end torque.
The power in the 0-60 range is crazy compared to what it used to be. Now that it's fixed I can tell I was probably in 4th around 30-35mph.

Stomping it @25mph now produces 20' of skid marks and smoke, and it was 69deg out when it did it

And wouldnt you know at the end of the racing season

Oh well it's fixed and the truck is stronger than ever!

thanks all and a big to you you Greg!
-Rich