Head studs?
Head studs?
I lost my #8 spark plug threads last Thursday. I got the whole thing torn down but don't want to pull the engine out. However, the head is hitting the break booster and the firewall.
Does any one know how to remove the studs with out damaging the stud or the block?
Thanks,
Suavy
Does any one know how to remove the studs with out damaging the stud or the block?
Thanks,
Suavy
This is just a wild guess in the dark but the ARP head studs I had on my LS1 have a small alan head hole on the top of the stud that you can use an alan head wrench to loosen the stud and remove it. Just an idea.
-Sly
-Sly
IF it is even possible, you are going to have to unscrew the studs and pull them partially out of their holes. then use whatever is handy to tie/tape/glue/or otherwise secure them so that they are in a position that allows you remove the head while the studs clear both the block and the firewall, booster, etc.
IF... is the key.
good luck.
later,
chris
IF... is the key.
good luck.
later,
chris
badazz99l, these head studs do not have an allen hole on top and as far as I could get the head up I did not see any flat to put a wrench on ethier.
There also is not enough of the stud sticking up to duble nut it and try it that way.
Suavy
There also is not enough of the stud sticking up to duble nut it and try it that way.
Suavy
Suavy dude, whats up?
you will have to take out the studs. you can try backing them up by hand but its a pain. the easiest way to do it is double nut the studs and then easily back them out with a socket wrench and cresent. i just did this a few weeks ago. it works. there is no need to pull the motor, thats crazy.
just put the back 4 studs in the passenger side head when you drop them in. rap them in a rubber band to keep them up in the head or else they drop into the cylinder walls making it a pain in the *** to put back on.
also for future ease, you might take a cutting wheel and lightly notch the studs to allow the use of a screw driver when removing next time. just clean the threads before you put the nuts back on. and dont notch to deep, you just want enough so it doesnt go as deep as the threads that will be holding on the nut.
dont forget to you moly. torque in 3 stages, 30, 60, and 80
Gaven
you will have to take out the studs. you can try backing them up by hand but its a pain. the easiest way to do it is double nut the studs and then easily back them out with a socket wrench and cresent. i just did this a few weeks ago. it works. there is no need to pull the motor, thats crazy.
just put the back 4 studs in the passenger side head when you drop them in. rap them in a rubber band to keep them up in the head or else they drop into the cylinder walls making it a pain in the *** to put back on.
also for future ease, you might take a cutting wheel and lightly notch the studs to allow the use of a screw driver when removing next time. just clean the threads before you put the nuts back on. and dont notch to deep, you just want enough so it doesnt go as deep as the threads that will be holding on the nut.
dont forget to you moly. torque in 3 stages, 30, 60, and 80
Gaven
cpeapea, thanks for the response!
No much happening here but this dang head stud chit!
There is only like a 1/4" of stud sticking out of the top of the bolt. Also I was able to get the head up about 3 in. and tried to get a pipe wrench on it. I put som chit on it but the stud didn't want to budge? I was afraid of damaging the studs?
Is it standard practice to lock tight the studs?
Suavy
No much happening here but this dang head stud chit!
There is only like a 1/4" of stud sticking out of the top of the bolt. Also I was able to get the head up about 3 in. and tried to get a pipe wrench on it. I put som chit on it but the stud didn't want to budge? I was afraid of damaging the studs?
Is it standard practice to lock tight the studs?
Suavy
lol a pipe wrench?
just dont scratch the mating surfaces. there should be way more that 1/4 inch, the nuts should thread all the way on with a washer and still have a little left sticking out. threadlocker would be rediculous to have been put on. they are supposed to be torqued with moly lube or 30wt, preferebly with moly. is the head fully seated? i wonder why your arp hardware would be shorter than mine?
just dont scratch the mating surfaces. there should be way more that 1/4 inch, the nuts should thread all the way on with a washer and still have a little left sticking out. threadlocker would be rediculous to have been put on. they are supposed to be torqued with moly lube or 30wt, preferebly with moly. is the head fully seated? i wonder why your arp hardware would be shorter than mine?
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cpeapea, I don't know why my stud is shorter then your stud!
With the washer and the nut on, there is about 1/4" of thread sticking out of the nut. That is not normal?
I'm gonna use a cheater bar and remove the studs. I guess I'll just have to replace the studs again.
With the washer and the nut on, there is about 1/4" of thread sticking out of the nut. That is not normal?
I'm gonna use a cheater bar and remove the studs. I guess I'll just have to replace the studs again.
thats really all you need suavy, your not going to be putting that much torque on them, you might even try to remove the washer as long are you arent torqueing them too much. it works, sometimes it takes a few tries though so dont give up!
Sauvy,
If you have stock HEAD BOLTS then you do not want to re-use them, they are whats called " torque to yeild" Meaning when they put them in from the factory they stretch, once they stretch they are no longer good. When they are taken out they will never be able to be used again.
If you have ARP or another HEAD STUDS in the motor they can be re used.
If you take the Head Bolts out you might want to just go ahead and get ARPs or Brand New Stock Head Bolts.
JimIII@JDM
If you have stock HEAD BOLTS then you do not want to re-use them, they are whats called " torque to yeild" Meaning when they put them in from the factory they stretch, once they stretch they are no longer good. When they are taken out they will never be able to be used again.
If you have ARP or another HEAD STUDS in the motor they can be re used.
If you take the Head Bolts out you might want to just go ahead and get ARPs or Brand New Stock Head Bolts.
JimIII@JDM
Last edited by JimIII@jdm; Sep 29, 2004 at 08:52 AM.
I want to thank everyone for your help! I was able to get them out. I got in touch with the guy who built my engine and he told me to get a piece of leather and wrap the stud then put a pipe wrench on it. With this info and by the grace of God they came right out!
Peace & Thank's again,
Suavy
Peace & Thank's again,
Suavy


